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Ronbill

Transom mount transducer in SSi or H2O

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I am installing a transom mount transducer (Garmin Downview w/ Chirp) in my 2009 196ssi. Has anyone installed a transom mount transducer on '09-13 SSi or H2O boat in 18-21'? If so can you share a few pics of transducer mounting location and where you drilled through the transom for running the cable?

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Only important place to drill that cable hole ?  Is high enough to be above waterline by 1' to 2' .    Also look inside & out side where the cable will come out inside of the hull. Pick a spot that is not difficult to reach the plug.

I use to use  a Plumbers test plug for the big transducer plugs. I removed all the metal parts. Took the rubber stopper plug part. Cut a slit from a edge to the center hole. Spread that apart. Put the cable into the center hole. Put the cable clips into the hull surface. Left about 1" of slack at the stopper hole. GENTLY tapped the stopper into the hull hole.  Water tight & solidly in place.

The newer transducers by Garmin have tiny transducer plugs. About 3/8" diameter.  I just GE  RTV them into place.

 

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Well I epoxied the SternMate on the transom today. Not overly difficult and I have to say the epoxy cleaned up very well with isopropyl alcohol as per instructions. I will add that the thixotropic epoxy supplied by SternMate is the most foul smelling substance I have ever experienced!! :blink:

Now I just have to drill the hole through the transom for the wiring.

Cyclops, I think the Garmin plug is about 5/8" for the downview/chirp transducer. I'm not familiar with the Plumbers test plug - just plumber's butt lol  :lol: - however thanks for the tip.

David, yes I recall that thread from a while back. It definitely helped me decide where to mount the SternMate and drill the cable hole.

Cheers,

Ron

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My hole for the cable is straight up from the transducer, as high as it would go.  Just make sure inside the engine compartment it is clear of anything else before you drill.

Some masking tape, running the bit backwards at first to get it "started" and you should have no problems.  Don't go super slow, but not super fast.  If that makes any sense lol!  But go a good speed and with purpose.  Don't slow down or stop, just good continuous speed and pressure until you break through.

I found installing the cable cover first, before sliding the cable through the hole, does not work very well.  But, drilling out the hole for the screws and getting it ready to install works.  

What I mean is, basically install the cable cover before you run the cable.  Then remove the cable cover, run the cable through, pull it tight, then reinstall the cable cover.  Be careful, as the transducer cable will not want to bend the 90 degrees easily sometimes.  A nice warm day helps it to.  But the cable cover helps to cinch it down flat against the transom where it enters the hole you drilled.

4200 or 5200 before reinstalling the cable cover too.  Then just carefully reinstall it tight.  4200 or 5200 the inside liberally and you are good to go.

I did mine with 5200.  I have been thinking about redoing my whole dash after this summer season and trying to go all "glass" and upgrading to a CHIRP transducer. Too #%^$&%$ hot out to do a project like that until at least November lol!!  But, not looking forward to cleaning up the 5200.  Oh well, least of my concerns.  Trying to redo the whole dash is a much bigger endeavor I think.

I would take a picture, but boat is in the slip on the lift and no way to take a picture back there right now, sorry.

 

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Just be sure the " kick up " transducer is FULLY PUSHED DOWN. I did 1 with the unit in the up position. The filler in the hull hole was still soft enough to pull back some cable.

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dsmacey - with the 196 ssi there was no room to drill straight up from the transducer as too many engine and steering components inside the compartment. I had to run up on the side wall of the outdrive cutout. It was rather easy to drill though as far up and plenty of room on the interior to run cabling through.

And yes 5200 is a flipping mess to work with.

Cyclops2 - ya I made sure I left a little slack to allow adjusting the transducer. I ran the boat today and everything works fine at slow speed but I lose the readings pretty quickly with speed so I need to adjust the transducer down a bit - at least I think I need to drop it down rather than raise it.

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That should be from not having the bottom SURFACE of the transducer NOT DEEP ENOUGH at faster speeds. the trapped air bubbles are sliding across the bottom of the transducer.  A bad spot for a transducer is in the upper space of the V of each strake / step.  I mount them in / behind the deepest part of the strake pushing the bubbles aside.

 

EDIT  I go for a strake very close to the center line.  Reads the longest at higher speeds.

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Cyclops is right as is your instinct.  You need to lower it.

I get pretty good readings on mine at speed below 40.  Above 40, not so much.

When on the hook, it can be hit or miss if it is rough out.  My swim platform does not have a vent, so it captures an air pocket and when it slaps down the air pocket can sometimes go under the transducer causing it to freak out.  If it is very rough it generally flakes out 75% of the time while on the hook.  Granted, I anchor from the stern a lot which is the major cause of this since the waves are hitting the rear of the swim platform and causing this to happen.

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We are going to be installing 2 transducers for our Lowrance HDS unit in the coming weeks (we get our 21' H2O tomorrow).  The cut out in the rear is pretty small (we have an outboard motor in the way) and already pretty busy.  Is everyone just gluing the transducer on to the hull, screwing it in, or through bolting it?  We went with the 3D version so we have 2 seperate transducers to mount and the less holes we put in the brand new boat the better.  

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Not sure if you really need a HDS for a pleasrue boat unless you are going to be doing some fishing or diving with it.  The HDI units work well and there is only one transducer that you need to mount.  Most are screwing the transducer into the hull of the boat.  You can get some seaboard and mount it to that as well.  

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Quote
3 hours ago, dsmacey said:

You can use what the original poster (Ronbill) used:

http://www.sternmate.com

Yes I was impressed with the ease of installation of SternMate but man does that epoxy stink!!!

Quote
15 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

I go for a strake very close to the center line.  Reads the longest at higher speeds.

This makes good sense and I do have room to move the transducer laterally toward the center line if need be. I think I will just lower it first and try it out since I'm losing readings once the boat is up on step. When I installed, I went with minimal drop below the hull of the boat so I'm sure that is the problem.

 

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 Ron

 If you have some safety minded friend ?  I have done the following test to SEE the  best solid water spot at  WOT.  I  kneeled down on the rear most of the stern to look down at the water spraying from under the boat. You will accurately see the best  ( least white bubbly water sections ).  Safe steady driver needed.  Realize that the almost solid water puts a lot of pressure on the transducer to be PUSHED UP just by water pressure. I have had to tighten the cross bolt to stay down at   WOT.

It can send up a small rooster tail of spray.  

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Ya I was think of using a Go Pro on a boom stick to record the spray with the boat in motion. I may do that yet, but right now I will adjust down to see if I can get up to higher speed before I drop readings.

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On 5/22/2018 at 9:40 AM, Jjlai724 said:

Not sure if you really need a HDS for a pleasrue boat unless you are going to be doing some fishing or diving with it.  The HDI units work well and there is only one transducer that you need to mount.  Most are screwing the transducer into the hull of the boat.  You can get some seaboard and mount it to that as well.  

We plan on doing lots of fishing with her (21' H20 Ski & Fish).  

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On 5/22/2018 at 2:18 PM, cyclops2 said:

 Ron

 If you have some safety minded friend ?  I have done the following test to SEE the  best solid water spot at  WOT.  I  kneeled down on the rear most of the stern to look down at the water spraying from under the boat. You will accurately see the best  ( least white bubbly water sections ).  Safe steady driver needed.  Realize that the almost solid water puts a lot of pressure on the transducer to be PUSHED UP just by water pressure. I have had to tighten the cross bolt to stay down at   WOT.

It can send up a small rooster tail of spray.  

I would feel safer tubing or knee boarding behind the boat to try to view the rooster tail the transducer makes.

At any rate, I was boating yesterday. I dropped the transducer down about a 1/4" and I was able to get depth readings to about 36 mph (GPS speed) in calm water only. Once there was some chop on the water (approximately 12" wave height) I was only able to keep depth readings at a speed of 26-29 mph (GPS).

Do you think I should drop it more?

 

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Update with install pics: a minor adjustment down with the transducer and now I have depth at full speed in flat water. Very happy indeed.

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