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watson524

Anchor locker chain/rode question

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3 hours ago, watson524 said:

Why would the ladder be deployed? I actually don't see us ever using the bow ladder 

When beaching the boat bow first ... the shallow water and the access is from the bow.

I actually don't see us ever beaching the boat, so your question remains ... :D

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7 hours ago, watson524 said:

Why would the ladder be deployed? I actually don't see us ever using the bow ladder 

It’s “deployed” because it folds up on top of your anchor locker. No need to fold it back in after pulling out your anchor. Let it stay unfolded (but not extended) as long as your anchor is out. That way you also have clear and unobstructed access to more rode should you need to change scope (tide, drift).

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10 hours ago, watson524 said:

Why would the ladder be deployed? I actually don't see us ever using the bow ladder 

I think the same way, we never beach. In fact I removed my bow ladder making it much easier to get the rode, chain and anchor in the locker.

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Yep, can't beach around here... or shouldn't, unless you like adding a lot of scrapes to your  gel coat. Too rocky.

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Then maybe do like Chap243 did: remove your bow ladder, and now you have a dedicated channel for your anchor rode when out, and less work to do when anchoring (no more ladder in and out).

When we boat, the kids love to jump off the bow and climb back in via the ladder, we use ours.

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On 5/22/2018 at 10:24 PM, Toddavid said:

Your anchor rode lies in the ladder channel, which should be empty since the ladder stays deployed forward. Pick a side, then close the hatch.

the only problem i have is that there isn't a cleat in the locker to tie off the rode.  I have to tie off to bow cleat.  It would make it much cleaner of there was a cleat in the anchor locker

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In good or fair weather a cleat is fine for anchoring.

But will tear out in 6 foot waves & wind or higher.  That bolted in the bow towing eye is what should be used all the time.  Good habit to acquire. 

I attach a 10' long, 1/4" diameter Nylon line about 5' from the end of the anchor line at the towing eye.  It is ....ONLY.... used to pull up a SLACK  anchor line.  Beats laying down & hanging over the bow to reach the anchor line. A long enough .......Boat Hook....  Fixed or collapsing would also work to catch & lift the slack anchor line in rough water.

Your choice.   I like the long 1/4"  line because I am least likely to get tossed into the rough waves. I use a 15' line .

You WILL NEED to use a smooth Stainless Steel link that can be screwed open to attach the line to the towing eye. Some tow eyes are too sharp edged to be used with a anchor line.

 

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If you boat and anchor in more the 30' of water one needs 200' of rope/rude (tomato/tomoto). Using the 7 to 1 rule thats 200' in 30' of water.  I have 200' rope with 7' 5/16 chain with a swivel between the chain and rope. I make a mark at 25' intervals, with a black mark (1-2 inches long), at 100' it turns black/blue then it goes to blue at 25' intervals. I also tie off the the forward cleat then attach it to the bow eye with a carabiner.

 

 

.

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I beach every night and deploy 3 anchors to secure me to the beach.

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 You must have excellent screens and A C ?

 We ran the A C yesterday at 70 F and very high humidity.

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On 5/22/2018 at 8:21 PM, watson524 said:

I'll have to look and see what's what but I just looked at online pictures and I'm not seeing notches there either so who knows what I'll find :)

I believe we have a similar setup and I use the ladder rail openings to lay the rode so I can close the lid fully.  If people are coming aboard from the front, you’ll need this fully closed and seated.  Second, I do have an eye to tie off to in the locker, believe it attached to the backside of the bow lifting eye.  I also converted to a box anchor (love it, holds like a spike, but comes up easy, 2:1 rode ratio to depth) as the factory anchor wouldn’t hold in the slightest puff of wind.

Hope you are enjoying the new boat!!

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Finally got to look at this last nite when we were anchoring. Definitely no channels other than the ladder and no tie off point in the anchor locker. 

I did get the chain and 100' of rode in there. Put anchor in first then sort of pushed rode down aft of it. A few more times to get a routine down but I think it'll work ok so long as it doesn't get too slimy down there and gunk up the rode. 

I just tie off the bitter end to the bow cleat before I even take the anchor out so I don't inadvertently toss without it secured.

Still need to put markings on it so I know how much I've paid out and more importantly so I know when to expect the chain as I'm retrieving so I don't worry about chain hitting gelcoat.

The anchor drag alarm on my garmin is pretty cool. I set it to 75' since we have plenty of space out there and you can watch where you are in the little circle.

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Seems that Chap is in a cost cutting mode, between the tubular arch, removal of the panel inside the hold below the wetbar sink, and no rode anchor. My rode anchor eye is on the back side of the bow eye in the hold, strange thing to eliminate.

Reminds me of the RV industry.

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You actually got rode with your anchor? Huh. I assumed it would be on the backside of the bow eye too but no dice. Just a lot of backer and reinforcement. 

What's the panel you mention under the wet bar sink? Horizontal? We have a vertical one that's carpeted between there and the slide out cooler section 

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I have carpeted panels on all three sides of the hold under the wetbar sink. The stern side one hides the sink faucet hose.

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Huh, my whole thing in there is carpeted too including the bottom I think - I'll be over there this afternoon and will check and snap a few pictures. Maybe our hose just isn't where it belongs.

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Well well well, my carpeted panel under the sink furthest back doesn't quite go all the way up and I was able to snake my sink hose in there. SO much better, thanks for the tip!! 

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I would not wrap a anchor line around any deck cleat. Not sure about cleat screws / bolts.

I lower the anchor slow enough to keep the thing from tangling.

I idle in reverse to set the anchor in the correct direction.

.

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5 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

I would not wrap a anchor line around any deck cleat. Not sure about cleat screws / bolts.

We have no choice, there's no where else to tie off to

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 On my boats I have always added a 8 to 10 inch Chrome cleat with a polished 1/4 plate between base of cleat & boat deck. Then another plate under the deck to spread out the storm waves shock over a bigger area. I have also added a chock as close to bow center line as is easy to bolt in place. It has the top open with a long angled slot. That allows line to be put in & STAY IN during a storm & waves. The angled slot on top  is important.

The big cleat is installed so it points fore & aft.

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