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Haro

2008 Chaparral 280 Signature - Twin 4.3L GXI.G V6 - Oil Pan Leak Near Bottom of Timing Cover

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June 11, 2018.

Hi,

I have the above mentioned boat and need to replace a section of the oil pan gasket (oil leak) near the timing cover and was seeking advise on whether it can be done without lifting the entire engine.  My plan is to loosen the pan bolts just enough to drop the pan front down 1/4 " or so, to replace a section of the gasket that is torn. goop it up with sealant and then refit a new timing cover and reassemble.  Its a tight fit and hard to see the bolts, has anyone done this or tried without engine lift?  Or i need to lift the boat and pull the engine which will take weeks for a spot in the schedule and 2 full days of labor costs as my generator may also need to come out to provide more space. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

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6 hours ago, Haro said:

June 11, 2018.

Hi,

I have the above mentioned boat and need to replace a section of the oil pan gasket (oil leak) near the timing cover and was seeking advise on whether it can be done without lifting the entire engine.  My plan is to loosen the pan bolts just enough to drop the pan front down 1/4 " or so, to replace a section of the gasket that is torn. goop it up with sealant and then refit a new timing cover and reassemble.  Its a tight fit and hard to see the bolts, has anyone done this or tried without engine lift?  Or i need to lift the boat and pull the engine which will take weeks for a spot in the schedule and 2 full days of labor costs as my generator may also need to come out to provide more space. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

The timing cover can be serviced without messing with the oil pan but there are a few tricks that need to be utilized. First of all, don't touch the pan bolts. The less movement there the better. Remove the water pump, and harmonic balancer (you will need a puller), then all the timing cover bolts. Carefully pry at the top of the cover until you are far enough out to clear the dowel pins (2) on the lower half of the cover, then slowly lift the cover upward until it parts from the front oil pan rail gasket. Be sure the rim gasket stays with the pan as it is part of the one piece pan gasket.

On the inside of the timing cover there is the gasket lip which has small wings at either end. Carefully trim off the tip of these wings and test fit the trimmed cover back into position. It will become obvious as to how much material needs to be removed and at what angle to allow reassembly, and the trick is just enough, not too much so trim a little, test fit a lot. When the lip will clear then change out the balancer hub seal, and apply some adhesive spray to your new gasket and stick it to a clean block surface. Use Brake-Clean or a similar product to assure the sealants hold as designed. Next, apply a THIN application of RTV silicone (Permatex Ultra Black) to the old pan gasket with a blob at both ends. Allow the RTV to cure for 30 minutes before proceeding. Failure to wait will likely result in seal migration during assembly.

Next, and this is the critical part, position the cover about 1/2" away from the block at the bottom, and 2" at the top. Find two thin drift pins that will fit in the cover bolt holes. Small center punches work well as they won't bend. Slide the pins through the cover holes one space above the block dowel pin holes, and then slip the cover bottom center into contact with the oil pan gasket. Put the tip of your center punches into their corresponding block holes and pry down compressing the front pan gasket as you push the cover in until your cover is squarely nested on the block dowels. Install the bolts and game over.

The only question I have is are you sure the leak is the cover gasket and not the fuel pump or balancer seal? Easier fixes there.  W

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