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pahad210

Getting back into a Chaparral -- need some guidance

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All, it has been a while since I've owned a boat but I am close to finalizing a deal on a 2007 Chaparral 275 SSI.  Few questions to this amazing forum.  

1 - Unfortunately, I have to purchase this boat sight unseen.  I am getting a survey and engine/drive inspection.  The boat is brokered and they provided me with tons of photos so I feel OK about doing that.  I told them that I just dont want any surprises when the boat arrives.  Any other things that I can do to cover my you know what here?

2 - The boat had the crap XDP drive, it was replaced last season with a Volvo DP drive.  It has the 8.1 engine.  The engine has about 400 hours on it, drive has less than 20.  I saw some rust on the risers/manifold and the broker noted that that may need to be replaced.  After some research i think that is about a 2K-3K deer cost.  I am not very familiar with Volvo's, only had Mercs.  So any thing I should be concerned with/aware of?

3 - The boat has only spent the last two years in a slip/dock and in salt water.  I boat in fresh and at times brackish.  Any good preventive maintenance I should do before putting it in the water for this season?

 Any other thoughts or comments would be appreciated.  I am looking forward to getting back on the water!

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If your going to do sight unseen then a survey and mechanical inspection.  That engine inspection if it were me must come with a compression test. If not somebody will just be looking it over and turning it on that doesn't tell me anything.  A compression test will tell you a lot.  that's about all you can.

2.  Risers and manifolds.  I did it myself on a 5.7 Volvo GXI.  $600 in parts.  I used aftermarket and not Volvo and they seemed to be the same quality as OEM.  Just make sure you use OEM seals.  But if you are not inclined to do so, and want to use Volvo parts than 2k is probably reasonable.  I wouldn't pay 3k.  As  for labor for somebody that knows what they are doing it should be no more than a 2 maybe 3 hour job.  Considering its been salt, and there is rust I would replace them now, gives you at least another 5 years in salt and in fresh they should last forever.

3.  New boat and unless you got receipts showing the work, I always go new fluids, impeller, and filters, that way I know its done and I am schedule.  Typically you change the oil, outdrive oil, fuel filter and oil filter once year.  Some camps believe doing it in the fall before storage others do it in the spring.  Spring is always time to clean it up, wax, and fix odds and ends.  Impeller should be replaced every 2-4 years. 

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I would never spend over 20k on something I haven't seen or touched. It would be worth the plane ride.

 

Now if its a steal then mayby 15k.

 

 

.

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We bought both of our 280 Signatures "sight" unseen. Both times we had about 50 photos and some videos sent to us, and the second time around had it inspected. The first time we saw the boat (in both cases) in person was the pick-up day. Haven't had any major problems, just do your due diligence beforehand. The second time around, the dealer we worked with asked me after the deal, "Do you think we described the boat well and gave you an honest opinion in the photos and over the phone?" It's a weird question to ask, but they did. They didn't hide what was wrong and told me right up front. I told him, "Look, I'm taking a $$$ risk here and all I'm asking is for you to be honest. We should be like that from the start" and he was. I appreciated it.

As for the risers/manifolds, I agree with soldier, it's about $600 in parts and a couple hours. If you do it yourself, make sure you get ALL the old gasket off and +1 on using OEM gaskets. I used aftermarket parts and OEM gasket and was right around $600. Not a lot of work to it...hardest part is getting around in the engine compartment and getting bolts lined up with their holes while not dropping the new gasket on the manifolds.

As for preventative maintenance, I would just start from scratch unless the dealer provides proof that they already did the work. First time around with the shotty dealer, they claimed they did a LOT of things but I pulled oil filters off that had the date written from two years prior. My fault, maybe, for not seeing receipts or proof. 

If it's a good deal and you're happy with it, go for it. Our 280 Sig that we have now cost us about 4700 in mileage from Portland, OR to Austin, TX, but we've been happy with it ever since we walked up to it on the dealer's lot the day we picked it up. 

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I would do a in person with a ride & full engine, drive oil samples to check for care given to it............ Must do a compression test......That also lets me see each sparkplug condition. Very important.  Any plugs look too clean ?  Possible water leakage in that cylinder. ! or 2 sooty ?   Wingnut can fill in all the plug colors & white ceramic conditions..   Do the compression test last. After the ride testing. A bad cylinder will show up that quickly even if they put in new plugs. At least a several minute WOT run.

 I run WOT a lot. From approaching storms. Badly injured person.  Medical emergencies.  Lots of reasons. AFTER you buy the boat.

No WOT ? No buy.

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Thanks for all the comments.  I am comfortable buying unseen, have bought many cars this way.  As long as you ask a ton of questions get even more videos/pics and do the inspection you should have no surprises.  

My issue right now is getting inspections scheduled.  Seems like everyone is booked for the next month.  Anyone have any recommendations in the Carolina Beach, NC area?

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A good surveyor is worth their weight in gold.  I bought my 225 SSI sight unseen, but everything the surveyor noted was spot-on, down to a tiny 1/8" chip in gel coat on the edge of one of the chines.  I felt I ended up with a fair deal, and knew exactly what I was walking into when I picked up the boat.

 

 

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