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MANFROGDOG

2014 287SSX engine flush-multiple failures-help!

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I bought a used 287SSX with 45 hours recently. I use it in saltwater. I have the 8.2 liter engine with Bravo 3 outdrive. I have tried flushing 4 times and have received a "critical overheat" warning each time, and have shut it off immediately. I have the Mercury low water pickup flushing attachment to block the holes, as well as trying 3 types of earmuffs, including the two part Mercury ones. I noticed once that the water was blasting out of the suction cup on the Mercury ones, so I've even turned the water down some to avoid blow-by on the pickups. Still each way, the same result. I have never had a flushing problem on boats, so I'm stumped. When I run the boat in the bay, it works perfectly at all speeds and rpms with no warnings. I'm afraid I'm going to quickly mess something up but don't know what I might be doing wrong. Please help!

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I start at idle then go up to 1200-1300 rpm as people have written to get the thermostat to open

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The bravo water pumps are engine mounted and with their long suction hose full of air, they take several seconds to prime. That said, during that time the pump has to be able to pump and displace the air. Moving air is much harder than pumping water and to do so, the pump rubber impeller blades must be able to seal tightly against the pump casing on both ends and all around the circumference of the impeller. Each time I have encountered your issue, the engine would self prime while in the water, but never would on muffs. It would seam that the previous owner may have ingested sand and you may have gouges in the pump housing. If you also encountered a high temperature alarm, you likely blistered the inside of the exhaust hoses and perhaps even cooked the exhaust flapper valves, if so equipped.

 

Your engine has an aftermarket cast iron cylinder block with aluminum heads so overheating is something to be avoided at all costs as it leads to failed head gaskets. I'd get the water pump apart and do a careful interior inspection. On the newer 8.2, the pumps have replaceable wear plates which makes servicing cheaper and easier.  W

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I had the same issues with muffs on my 496.  I never got to a high temp alarm cause I'd shut it down as soon as the exhaust manifolds got hot.  But I had so much trouble getting the thing to pump with muffs.  So I made up my own flushing attachment with a ball valve and a garden hose fitting.  I simply take the water pump intake hose apart at the coupling, and insert my attachment into the female side of the hose that feeds into the pump.  I purchased a pc. of the water hose and the coupling on ebay.  Once hooked up, I close the ball valve and turn the hose spigget on.  Then once in the boat, I crack the ball valve, start the engine, then open the ball valve all the way.  Works like a charm.  

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I had the same problem with my 2016 246ssi.  Burnt out the impeller and water pump.  On my Bravo 3 it is a dual water pickup so their are 4 holes in the front of the outdrive. With the Merc suction cups on the water would run out these holes rather then circulate through the engine. Purchased a Mercury Mercruiser Dual Water Pick-up Flush Seal Kit which solved the problem.

61k7zIjsfFL._SL1500_.jpg

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6 hours ago, MANFROGDOG said:

I bought a used 287SSX with 45 hours recently. I use it in saltwater. I have the 8.2 liter engine with Bravo 3 outdrive. I have tried flushing 4 times and have received a "critical overheat" warning each time, and have shut it off immediately. I have the Mercury low water pickup flushing attachment to block the holes, as well as trying 3 types of earmuffs, including the two part Mercury ones. I noticed once that the water was blasting out of the suction cup on the Mercury ones, so I've even turned the water down some to avoid blow-by on the pickups. Still each way, the same result. I have never had a flushing problem on boats, so I'm stumped. When I run the boat in the bay, it works perfectly at all speeds and rpms with no warnings. I'm afraid I'm going to quickly mess something up but don't know what I might be doing wrong. Please help!

Wow, that is really bizarre.  Have you tried asking any local dealers in your area?  I would start with that. 

In the meantime, until you figure out what the problem is, maybe try flushing the motor while the boat is in the water before pulling it back out on your trailer, if you can.  At least this way you can clean up most of the salt water out of the engine instead of not flushing at all.

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When I'm flushing or running mine in the drive. The water sprays out the muffs, more water better than less water. Never had a problem with the engine over heating. 

I would suggest three things, changing the impeller, check the heat exchanger to see if its clogged and pulling the risers to see if they are blocked.

Was it a saltwater boat before?

 

.

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On ‎6‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 2:31 PM, MonkeySeaII said:

I had the same issues with muffs on my 496.  I never got to a high temp alarm cause I'd shut it down as soon as the exhaust manifolds got hot.  But I had so much trouble getting the thing to pump with muffs.  So I made up my own flushing attachment with a ball valve and a garden hose fitting.  I simply take the water pump intake hose apart at the coupling, and insert my attachment into the female side of the hose that feeds into the pump.  I purchased a pc. of the water hose and the coupling on ebay.  Once hooked up, I close the ball valve and turn the hose spigget on.  Then once in the boat, I crack the ball valve, start the engine, then open the ball valve all the way.  Works like a charm.  

So you basically installed a flush port on your 496 but the OP's 2014 8.2 Merc didn't come with one factory installed already and can only flush out the motor with muffs? 

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10 hours ago, Hatem said:

So you basically installed a flush port on your 496 but the OP's 2014 8.2 Merc didn't come with one factory installed already and can only flush out the motor with muffs? 

Merc does not include a flush port. Their spec muffs have a thru-drive retaining stud that holds the muffs tight against the drive to help limit leakage, and prevent them from ever falling off, but if there is any internal slippage in the pump due to case or impeller wear, the 496 won't prime on muffs. Some 8.2's have multiple pick-ups on their Bravo's making it even a bit more difficult to run on muffs and they requiure yet another block off plug for the secondary inlet.  Below is an example of the spec muff with retaining stud.  W

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/flushing-attachment.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk83DtZLn2wIVzbrACh3zjw2PEAQYASABEgIuAfD_BwE

 

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11 hours ago, Hatem said:

So you basically installed a flush port on your 496 but the OP's 2014 8.2 Merc didn't come with one factory installed already and can only flush out the motor with muffs? 

in a nutshell yes.  I don't leave in place though because there's not enough space.  But it takes 2 minutes to pop the coupling loose and install my flush valve.  For me, it greatly simplified things and eliminated the stress of messing with muffs.

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1 hour ago, Wingnut said:

Merc does not include a flush port. Their spec muffs have a thru-drive retaining stud that holds the muffs tight against the drive to help limit leakage, and prevent them from ever falling off, but if there is any internal slippage in the pump due to case or impeller wear, the 496 won't prime on muffs. Some 8.2's have multiple pick-ups on their Bravo's making it even a bit more difficult to run on muffs and they requiure yet another block off plug for the secondary inlet.  Below is an example of the spec muff with retaining stud.  W

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/flushing-attachment.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk83DtZLn2wIVzbrACh3zjw2PEAQYASABEgIuAfD_BwE

 

Aha, now I understand the problem much better, thanks.  Yes I've seen those muffs with that stud that tightens the two ears together.  I wish I could do that with mine but the Volvo DPSA doesn't really have a clear shot from one side to the other to push that stud through, at least not without taking the inlet covers off first which is a headache to do.

Thank goodness for the flushport, though.  Makes flushing 1000 times easier and gives you the option to also do it while slipped in the water.  You'd think it would be standard now.  Does Merc even offer the flushport as an additional option for any of their motors?

39 minutes ago, MonkeySeaII said:

in a nutshell yes.  I don't leave in place though because there's not enough space.  But it takes 2 minutes to pop the coupling loose and install my flush valve.  For me, it greatly simplified things and eliminated the stress of messing with muffs.

  So I guess my temporary suggestion to the OP to try flushing it while it's still in the water is irrelevant now.

You can't set yours up so it's permanent?  It's that tight in there?  Interesting.  I thought there was a kit available just for that so you can "permanently" convert your Merc motor to be able to flush right at the engine and avoid the whole muffs drag?  Could've sworn I'd seen it somewhere.

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3 hours ago, Hatem said:

Aha, now I understand the problem much better, thanks.  Yes I've seen those muffs with that stud that tightens the two ears together.  I wish I could do that with mine but the Volvo DPSA doesn't really have a clear shot from one side to the other to push that stud through, at least not without taking the inlet covers off first which is a headache to do.

Thank goodness for the flushport, though.  Makes flushing 1000 times easier and gives you the option to also do it while slipped in the water.  You'd think it would be standard now.  Does Merc even offer the flushport as an additional option for any of their motors?

  So I guess my temporary suggestion to the OP to try flushing it while it's still in the water is irrelevant now.

You can't set yours up so it's permanent?  It's that tight in there?  Interesting.  I thought there was a kit available just for that so you can "permanently" convert your Merc motor to be able to flush right at the engine and avoid the whole muffs drag?  Could've sworn I'd seen it somewhere.

it could be permanent but I'd have to add a tee fitting.  And it's difficult to work with that hose cause it's very stiff.  It's easy enough to just hook this up when I need it

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Well last weekend it flushed perfectly. For information, I have the two part Mercury flushing attachment as well as the Mercury low water inlet blocker. However, I was running the water through the saltaway attachment between my hose and the suction cups. I believe that might have been restricting the flow. Worked with the saltaway dispenser removed. Boat will be in a boat lift next year so I'm real curious about the valve technique rather than flushing with suction cups for the future, as the outdrive will be very difficult to access. So far I like this suggestion, the Quick Flush Valve system, where I can do this from the engine compartment. Any thoughts? Will it flush properly? Is it ok even if the engine isn't running (seems the impellor needs to move to clean it out good-maybe the water does that)? 

qfv-installation-io_1_orig.jpg

quickvalve flush kit.jpg

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35 minutes ago, MANFROGDOG said:

Well last weekend it flushed perfectly. For information, I have the two part Mercury flushing attachment as well as the Mercury low water inlet blocker. However, I was running the water through the saltaway attachment between my hose and the suction cups. I believe that might have been restricting the flow. Worked with the saltaway dispenser removed. Boat will be in a boat lift next year so I'm real curious about the valve technique rather than flushing with suction cups for the future, as the outdrive will be very difficult to access. So far I like this suggestion, the Quick Flush Valve system, where I can do this from the engine compartment. Any thoughts? Will it flush properly? Is it ok even if the engine isn't running (seems the impellor needs to move to clean it out good-maybe the water does that)? 

qfv-installation-io_1_orig.jpg

quickvalve flush kit.jpg

this is very similar to what I made for mine.  I just didn't do a tee cause it's really tight.  And I only have 1 valve on the garden hose inlet

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19 hours ago, MANFROGDOG said:

So far I like this suggestion, the Quick Flush Valve system, where I can do this from the engine compartment. Any thoughts? Will it flush properly? Is it ok even if the engine isn't running (seems the impellor needs to move to clean it out good-maybe the water does that)? 

That's what I mentioned a few posts above.  There is a kit you can buy for that motor that you can attach and flush straight from the motor.

I don't know about Mercs so I won't tell you to run the engine or not, but on my VP 8.1 GI which came already with a flushport, you have to run the engine while flushing through it.  Even if you're flushing with muffs on the outdrive you still have to run the engine, just for a few minutes until all the salt water is replaced with fresh water. 

There is also a critical point in the manual that tells us VP owners to run less water PRESSURE through the hose while the boat is in the water than if the boat is out.  So make sure you check on all those proper directions before you do it.  And of course, run the water first before cranking the motor!  Then shut engine off before shutting water off.  But that is the best way to go IMO.

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