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Dozer

Wich manifold and risers to purchase

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I have been searching the net for manifold and riser kits for my 2006 290 Sig -- the current ones were replaced back in 2013 by the first owner. Second owner never did anything with them except flushing. I purchased the boat in April of this year -- now the engines are heating up, and I have changed the thermostats and impellers
SO I hope replacing the manifolds and risers should take care of the heating.

I need some help in deciding which kit to purchase, so hopefully someone here can give me some advice

I have found a few but now I'm wondering which brand to get

Sierra MerCruiser kit @ $1059.69 each engine
OEM MerCruiser Kit @ $1251.00 each engine
HGE Kit @ $849.00 each engine  this are made by HGE Marine

I also need the 1.7" spacers
I can only find the OEM MerCruiser V6/V8 Dry Joint Exhaust Riser 1.7" Spacer Kit

So if anyone has used any the brands above, would you please give me your opinion and also if I decided to go with the HGE kit, would the Joint exhaust riser from Mercruiser work with it? can you mix different manufacturers Joint Exhaust risers with manifold and riser kits

Thank you

 

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6 hours ago, Dozer said:

Second owner never did anything with them except flushing.

I'm curious what else are you supposed to do besides flush them?  I only ask because that's what I do and if I'm missing a step or something I'd love to know!

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As a kid I worked in a radiator repair shop. A true clean & repair shop.  We would remove the thermostat. disconnect radiator hoses to the radiator . reverse flush the engine. Pull the radiator & put it in a WEAK acid tank with a GENTILE flow of acid to the top connection.  Usually worked fine.  I would NEVER try that with the thin Aluminum parts today.

Cast iron castings ?  Go for it. No loss.  IF the price is low enough.   Pure seat of the pants call.

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

I'm curious what else are you supposed to do besides flush them?  I only ask because that's what I do and if I'm missing a step or something I'd love to know!

Some folks use "Salt Away" on the saltwater boats, but I have just flushed w/ fresh after every outing and the manifolds look almost new inside and it's been 8 years at least. My manifolds are GLM (Good Luck Marine) aftermarkets w/ Merc risers. I do inspect every fall by taking off risers and inspecting everything, flappers included. Also, I only use the good Merc graphite gaskets. No paper ones.

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5 minutes ago, Pops said:

Some folks use "Salt Away" on the saltwater boats, but I have just flushed w/ fresh after every outing and the manifolds look almost new inside and it's been 8 years at least. My manifolds are GLM (Good Luck Marine) aftermarkets w/ Merc risers. I do inspect every fall by taking off risers and inspecting everything, flappers included. Also, I only use the good Merc graphite gaskets. No paper ones.

That's right, I forgot about Salt Away, thanks for the reminded.  Probably have to wait until the boat is out of the slip to use that stuff. 

Funny about risers in SW, some people like yourself -- with good maintenance, of course -- have great results and risers good for 8 years and more by the sound of it.  Others are going through them like crazy and they're not exactly cheap, Merc or Volvo.  Just one of those things, I guess. 

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Run hours on full plane speeds & WOT speed count very much. Fresh or salt. Some fresh water has massive amounts of suspended minerals.

Luck beats skill every time.

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Flush every outing, salt / brackish / fresh. All the same. For me it is, anyway. And mine only sees an occasional WOT to see if everything is good..

She's "mature" and don't want to push her too hard. Besides, Admiral doesn't like going that fast on the water.

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16 minutes ago, Pops said:

Flush every outing, salt / brackish / fresh. All the same. For me it is, anyway. And mine only sees an occasional WOT to see if everything is good..

She's "mature" and don't want to push her too hard. Besides, Admiral doesn't like going that fast on the water.

I'm exactly the same way.  And I completely agree with the Admiral, especially for us on ocean water.  To get up to 40+ mph and not feel like you're either going to submerge the bow with each hop or even lose control from all the heavy bouncing around, the water needs to be like a sheet of glass for that to happen.  All the planets need to line up perfectly with the pyramids of Giza at exactly the right time of day!  And rarely, is our ocean, up this way, looking like a sheet of glass!

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two years ago I put the GLM kit on my Volvo think it was 650 off ebay, vs sierra was like 800 and think Volvo was 1000 or better.  If you use non oem parts if they don't come with the silver gasket buy the oem ones.  Ebay had cheaper prices all around on these kits.

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Well I guess this topic got highjacked ...lol

Back to my initial questions, does anyone have experience with the Risers/Manifold kits I listed above.

Also, would I have any issue mixing different manufacturers parts -- for example, using the HGE kit (manifolds & risers) with the OEM Joint Riser kit

Thank you

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I have had GLM manifolds w/ Mercruiser risers since day I've had  boat. Zero problems

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13 hours ago, Dozer said:

Well I guess this topic got highjacked ...lol

Back to my initial questions, does anyone have experience with the Risers/Manifold kits I listed above.

Also, would I have any issue mixing different manufacturers parts -- for example, using the HGE kit (manifolds & risers) with the OEM Joint Riser kit

Thank you

As long as their compatible with the OEM risers and manifolds, I supposed it's not a problem.  But finding that out is the tough part and unless you have a member here who used exactly what you're intending to use on the same motor you have, that's probably a difficult question to answer unless there is some literature with the new kit that states which engines they're compatible with.  Usually you can get that info right off their website or call the supplier.  Personally, I would stick to OEM products for fear of getting any specs wrong and then you'll be dealing with a lot more than the risers and manifolds.  But that's just me. 

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I wouldn't mix and match parts, that's just me. go all one brand.  might be some slight differences.  Like I said I measured and looked them over really and GLM looked to be the same as the stock one, so if you want to pay more for OEM go for it.  FYI Volvo doesn't make their own manifolds anyways.

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Well because I couldn't find aftermarket Riser joint spacers I ended up ordering all OEM parts do that everything matched.
Found an online store in New Jersey (not sure if I can post their name here, so I will leave at that) -- it was the best price I found and because I'm retired Military they even gave me a 5% discount -- No tax and free shipping to the door is just a few days.

After comparing the new to the old parts, I can really see how badly blocked the old ones are. If this is not the source of my overheating, I will be upset after spending 3400 deer on all these new parts. 
I'll try to post some pics of the old/new parts side by side, and then try to install all and hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can take it out and test.
Also while I had the manifolds and risers off, which gave me some extra room, I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned up the engine bay.

Thank you to everyone for helping out figuring out what was the heating problem 

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18 hours ago, Dozer said:

Well because I couldn't find aftermarket Riser joint spacers I ended up ordering all OEM parts do that everything matched.
Found an online store in New Jersey (not sure if I can post their name here, so I will leave at that) -- it was the best price I found and because I'm retired Military they even gave me a 5% discount -- No tax and free shipping to the door is just a few days.

After comparing the new to the old parts, I can really see how badly blocked the old ones are. If this is not the source of my overheating, I will be upset after spending 3400 deer on all these new parts. 
I'll try to post some pics of the old/new parts side by side, and then try to install all and hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can take it out and test.
Also while I had the manifolds and risers off, which gave me some extra room, I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned up the engine bay.

Thank you to everyone for helping out figuring out what was the heating problem 

I hope you inspected the interior of the exhaust hoses and exhaust flappers at the y-pipe entry while you were in there. I think on a 2006, I might have rebuilt the starter also, for the price of a new bendix, brushes and solenoid. Fingers crossed, hoping your overheat is behind you.  W

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Replaced them on my 2004 Sig. this spring. did a lot of looking and pricing. I wanted  the "dry Joint" and I wanted them coated. Merc parts over 1600 deer. Found exactly what I wanted at

https://www.perfprotech.com. They have all the advantages of the Merc's. and come with all new hardware and gaskets. Bottom line, 900 deer. They fit great and being in salt water, you should get the coated ones. Expect to have to take the exhaust apart down to the "Y" pipe to clean all the salt build up off. then assemble everything back together leaving the hose clamps loose until everything else is bolted together (learned this the hard way).

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Well here are the good and the bad news after replacing the Manifolds and Risers;

The good -- the starboard engine no longer overheats - the temp stays steady regardless of speed

The bad - the port engine is still overheating at higher speeds/load  -- and I spent a bunch of $$$$$$$
To recap here is what I have done on both engines - New thermostats, new impellors (old ones still had all their pieces) and new manifolds and risers with spacers

So as soon as the port side engine is getting hot, and right before the alarm goes off, I can bring it to neutral and just increase the RPM's without engaging the props, and it cools down VERY quickly -- you can actually see the temp gauge dropping, then you can engage the prop and go again.

After installing the new Manifolds and Risers I have done about 4 runs of about 4 miles each  before the port engine gets hot - I was hopping that a few WOT runs would maybe "blow" whatever could have been blocking the cooling passages... did not work!
Here is the current situation:
- WOT with 6 passengers full tank of fuel and water was cruising at 43 MPH and you can see the engine temp gauge slowly rising.
- Bring the boat to a stop and increase the RPM's in neutral to cool down the engine and resume cruising at about 25MPH instead of WOT -- the temp would increase slightly but will not overheat -- this lasted for  a 8 mile run before we reached our location and shut it down
- Shortly after shutting down the engines, I used an IR gun to measure temps and compare them between the two engines in the same locations - the temps pretty much match within (+ or -) 2 degrees

Before replacing the manifolds and risers I could not go much longer than 3-5 miles at 25MPH before the engines got hot, now (no issues on starboard engine as I mentioned above) the port side will get hot after about 3-4 miles  at WOT and stays above normal temperature at 25MPH cruising but does not overheat.
There are no water leaks anywhere
I do have a flushing kit installed, and I clamped the hose from it, thinking it could be some sort of air leak -- did not make a difference.
Right now I'm getting ready to remove the Thermostat housing and inspect and test the newly added thermostat to see if it could have failed and look for any debris blockages within the Thermostat housing.

I need some suggestions on what else can be causing this heating problem - getting tired of throwing $$$$ and not solving this issue.

Thank you in advance for any advice

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Suggest thoroughly inspecting the port water pump housing for scoring, and the inlet from the lower unit up through the transom, etc. Based on what you’ve replaced, symptoms and actions to control/bring the temp. down, I suspect full flow isn’t being generated by the pump or there’s a restriction along the induction path.  (Assumes no heat exchanger.)

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4 hours ago, Bt Doctur said:

Bravoitis? 

From what I can tell so far the hoses are not collapsing, they seem pretty stiff and not soft

3 hours ago, Curt said:

Suggest thoroughly inspecting the port water pump housing for scoring, and the inlet from the lower unit up through the transom, etc. Based on what you’ve replaced, symptoms and actions to control/bring the temp. down, I suspect full flow isn’t being generated by the pump or there’s a restriction along the induction path.  (Assumes no heat exchanger.)

when I replaced the impeller I did check for scoring - I haven't taken the lower unit apart to inspect pass ways...., 

Thank you for the suggestions.
I did remove the thermostat housing, and place the Thermostat in hot water along with the original ones (previously replaced)
So I think I may have found the issue -- please let me know if you think is the culprit of my overheating...

When the water reaches 160º the original thermostats start opening, the current thermostat did not start opening until it about 165º and DID NOT open slow and stead like the originals. It seemed to be somewhat stuck, as it would open with small "pop" like it was getting caught on something and then another "pop" and it would open some more.
Comparing the originals to the current thermostat, the original ones were open twice as much as the current one. When I took them out of the hot water the current thermostat closed before the original ones.

This observation of only opening half as much and struggling to open leads me to believe the Thermostat maybe the culprit -- any thoughts?
I'm awaiting new gaskets, and will try to test it out next weekend trip after installing one of the original thermostats.

Thank you

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It won't hurt.  Your findings aren't normal.  I'd be more inclined to swap starboard to port and vice versa instead of reverting to the original (presumably it's old and needs to be changed nonetheless).  At the same time, one engine is functioning normally so it's best to leave it alone.  Regardless, you'll know following whether more troubleshooting is required.  It wouldn't be the first time something new is defective. 

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14 hours ago, Curt said:

At the same time, one engine is functioning normally so it's best to leave it alone.

Totally agree.  I wouldn't touch the good engine either just to use it as a testing ground for what appears to be a defective thermostat. 

@Dozer If anything, I would return that slow opening thermostat (if you can) based on the result of your neat, hot water test and exchange it for another new one.  Try that cool hot water test again with the other, properly functioning thermostat and see if you get matching results with the way they open.  If they do, I think that should solve your problem since it sounds like the thermostat isn't only not opening fast enough, but not opening all the way.  

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Great news!

The thermostat was the issue, both engines are running at normal temperatures regardless of speed or distance. So when it comes to the engines I'm a happy camper.
But with everything on a boat that is 12 years old, there's always something.. I don't want to add any other issues to this topic so I'll start another regarding the failure of my Pronautic 1240P battery charger ---  See my other post here

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Great news indeed.  It's a boat.  New or old there's always something.  Still a lot of fun.

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On ‎8‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 2:42 PM, Curt said:

Great news indeed.  It's a boat.  New or old there's always something.  Still a lot of fun.

Well said as usual, Curtzation!

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