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Dozer

Wich manifold and risers to purchase

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I have been searching the net for manifold and riser kits for my 2006 290 Sig -- the current ones were replaced back in 2013 by the first owner. Second owner never did anything with them except flushing. I purchased the boat in April of this year -- now the engines are heating up, and I have changed the thermostats and impellers
SO I hope replacing the manifolds and risers should take care of the heating.

I need some help in deciding which kit to purchase, so hopefully someone here can give me some advice

I have found a few but now I'm wondering which brand to get

Sierra MerCruiser kit @ $1059.69 each engine
OEM MerCruiser Kit @ $1251.00 each engine
HGE Kit @ $849.00 each engine  this are made by HGE Marine

I also need the 1.7" spacers
I can only find the OEM MerCruiser V6/V8 Dry Joint Exhaust Riser 1.7" Spacer Kit

So if anyone has used any the brands above, would you please give me your opinion and also if I decided to go with the HGE kit, would the Joint exhaust riser from Mercruiser work with it? can you mix different manufacturers Joint Exhaust risers with manifold and riser kits

Thank you

 

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6 hours ago, Dozer said:

Second owner never did anything with them except flushing.

I'm curious what else are you supposed to do besides flush them?  I only ask because that's what I do and if I'm missing a step or something I'd love to know!

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As a kid I worked in a radiator repair shop. A true clean & repair shop.  We would remove the thermostat. disconnect radiator hoses to the radiator . reverse flush the engine. Pull the radiator & put it in a WEAK acid tank with a GENTILE flow of acid to the top connection.  Usually worked fine.  I would NEVER try that with the thin Aluminum parts today.

Cast iron castings ?  Go for it. No loss.  IF the price is low enough.   Pure seat of the pants call.

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

I'm curious what else are you supposed to do besides flush them?  I only ask because that's what I do and if I'm missing a step or something I'd love to know!

Some folks use "Salt Away" on the saltwater boats, but I have just flushed w/ fresh after every outing and the manifolds look almost new inside and it's been 8 years at least. My manifolds are GLM (Good Luck Marine) aftermarkets w/ Merc risers. I do inspect every fall by taking off risers and inspecting everything, flappers included. Also, I only use the good Merc graphite gaskets. No paper ones.

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5 minutes ago, Pops said:

Some folks use "Salt Away" on the saltwater boats, but I have just flushed w/ fresh after every outing and the manifolds look almost new inside and it's been 8 years at least. My manifolds are GLM (Good Luck Marine) aftermarkets w/ Merc risers. I do inspect every fall by taking off risers and inspecting everything, flappers included. Also, I only use the good Merc graphite gaskets. No paper ones.

That's right, I forgot about Salt Away, thanks for the reminded.  Probably have to wait until the boat is out of the slip to use that stuff. 

Funny about risers in SW, some people like yourself -- with good maintenance, of course -- have great results and risers good for 8 years and more by the sound of it.  Others are going through them like crazy and they're not exactly cheap, Merc or Volvo.  Just one of those things, I guess. 

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Run hours on full plane speeds & WOT speed count very much. Fresh or salt. Some fresh water has massive amounts of suspended minerals.

Luck beats skill every time.

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Flush every outing, salt / brackish / fresh. All the same. For me it is, anyway. And mine only sees an occasional WOT to see if everything is good..

She's "mature" and don't want to push her too hard. Besides, Admiral doesn't like going that fast on the water.

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16 minutes ago, Pops said:

Flush every outing, salt / brackish / fresh. All the same. For me it is, anyway. And mine only sees an occasional WOT to see if everything is good..

She's "mature" and don't want to push her too hard. Besides, Admiral doesn't like going that fast on the water.

I'm exactly the same way.  And I completely agree with the Admiral, especially for us on ocean water.  To get up to 40+ mph and not feel like you're either going to submerge the bow with each hop or even lose control from all the heavy bouncing around, the water needs to be like a sheet of glass for that to happen.  All the planets need to line up perfectly with the pyramids of Giza at exactly the right time of day!  And rarely, is our ocean, up this way, looking like a sheet of glass!

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two years ago I put the GLM kit on my Volvo think it was 650 off ebay, vs sierra was like 800 and think Volvo was 1000 or better.  If you use non oem parts if they don't come with the silver gasket buy the oem ones.  Ebay had cheaper prices all around on these kits.

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Well I guess this topic got highjacked ...lol

Back to my initial questions, does anyone have experience with the Risers/Manifold kits I listed above.

Also, would I have any issue mixing different manufacturers parts -- for example, using the HGE kit (manifolds & risers) with the OEM Joint Riser kit

Thank you

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I have had GLM manifolds w/ Mercruiser risers since day I've had  boat. Zero problems

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13 hours ago, Dozer said:

Well I guess this topic got highjacked ...lol

Back to my initial questions, does anyone have experience with the Risers/Manifold kits I listed above.

Also, would I have any issue mixing different manufacturers parts -- for example, using the HGE kit (manifolds & risers) with the OEM Joint Riser kit

Thank you

As long as their compatible with the OEM risers and manifolds, I supposed it's not a problem.  But finding that out is the tough part and unless you have a member here who used exactly what you're intending to use on the same motor you have, that's probably a difficult question to answer unless there is some literature with the new kit that states which engines they're compatible with.  Usually you can get that info right off their website or call the supplier.  Personally, I would stick to OEM products for fear of getting any specs wrong and then you'll be dealing with a lot more than the risers and manifolds.  But that's just me. 

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I wouldn't mix and match parts, that's just me. go all one brand.  might be some slight differences.  Like I said I measured and looked them over really and GLM looked to be the same as the stock one, so if you want to pay more for OEM go for it.  FYI Volvo doesn't make their own manifolds anyways.

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Well because I couldn't find aftermarket Riser joint spacers I ended up ordering all OEM parts do that everything matched.
Found an online store in New Jersey (not sure if I can post their name here, so I will leave at that) -- it was the best price I found and because I'm retired Military they even gave me a 5% discount -- No tax and free shipping to the door is just a few days.

After comparing the new to the old parts, I can really see how badly blocked the old ones are. If this is not the source of my overheating, I will be upset after spending 3400 deer on all these new parts. 
I'll try to post some pics of the old/new parts side by side, and then try to install all and hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can take it out and test.
Also while I had the manifolds and risers off, which gave me some extra room, I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned up the engine bay.

Thank you to everyone for helping out figuring out what was the heating problem 

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18 hours ago, Dozer said:

Well because I couldn't find aftermarket Riser joint spacers I ended up ordering all OEM parts do that everything matched.
Found an online store in New Jersey (not sure if I can post their name here, so I will leave at that) -- it was the best price I found and because I'm retired Military they even gave me a 5% discount -- No tax and free shipping to the door is just a few days.

After comparing the new to the old parts, I can really see how badly blocked the old ones are. If this is not the source of my overheating, I will be upset after spending 3400 deer on all these new parts. 
I'll try to post some pics of the old/new parts side by side, and then try to install all and hopefully the weather will cooperate so I can take it out and test.
Also while I had the manifolds and risers off, which gave me some extra room, I replaced the spark plugs and cleaned up the engine bay.

Thank you to everyone for helping out figuring out what was the heating problem 

I hope you inspected the interior of the exhaust hoses and exhaust flappers at the y-pipe entry while you were in there. I think on a 2006, I might have rebuilt the starter also, for the price of a new bendix, brushes and solenoid. Fingers crossed, hoping your overheat is behind you.  W

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Replaced them on my 2004 Sig. this spring. did a lot of looking and pricing. I wanted  the "dry Joint" and I wanted them coated. Merc parts over 1600 deer. Found exactly what I wanted at

https://www.perfprotech.com. They have all the advantages of the Merc's. and come with all new hardware and gaskets. Bottom line, 900 deer. They fit great and being in salt water, you should get the coated ones. Expect to have to take the exhaust apart down to the "Y" pipe to clean all the salt build up off. then assemble everything back together leaving the hose clamps loose until everything else is bolted together (learned this the hard way).

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