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Boat won’t start! Please help!!!

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Newbie with first boat so please forgive my ignorance! Bought brand new h2O sport 19’ back in 2013. Mercruiser 3.0MPI. Fast fwd to now...2 issues.

1. Boat won’t crank but nav and court lights came on, blower, horn, depth accessory all work. However, Radio does not come on and the Gauges do not move. Replaced battery, still nothing. Started checking fuses but got overwhelmed-so many!!! Any suggestions on what this may be or at least the main places I can start checking?

2. The last time I took it out. Loud audible warning to indicate engine overheat. Water pump? Impeller? 

I’m fairly mechanically inclined and would like to at least check on some things myself before I have to bite the bullet and take it to shop.

Thank you in advance!

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1. Do you have multiple batteries?  If so, check the cranking battery and/or the battery selector.  Also, make sure the cutoff switch is in the correct position and the shifter is truly in neutral.  You wouldn't believe how many times that is the problem!

2. Yes, likely impeller.  Do you know when it was last replaced?  If not, it should be inspected and replaced before you troubleshoot #1.

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If it was over heating. When was the last time the impeller was changed, you need to ask yourself?

I would check the breaker that seats on top of the engine first. If needed from there, break out you volt meter. Do you have power from the battery on out. The battery switch, cables to the helm and so on.............

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Yes, I’ve wiggled the key, Ive wiggled the shift to make sure it’s seated in neutral. I’ve also made sure the switch with the lanyard is on and also toggled that a few times to make sure it’s seated correctly. I’ve reset the breaker on top of engine. 

I have 1 battery, and the impeller hasn’t been changed. I will order the parts and have that done. 

I’ll take the voltmeter next and check places. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing the easy stuff to check first. Thanks for the replies and I’ll keep y’all posted!

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Are you getting the alarm test tone when you turn the key on? 

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Has anyone changed the impeller on their own? How difficult/extensive is this job? Any write ups or videos?

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When I turn the key, there is nothing, not even a click or sound or cranking. 

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almost every owner gets to change his own someday.

Do you know how to use a meter? check for 12v at the 50A circuit breaker and the alt output post,

report findings

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Check power going into the key switch and coming out.

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I believe all the things that aren't coming on are switched by the key, those that do work are non switched by the key.  Ie. lights work without turning key on.  I'd do as jd50i says.  the key switches do go bad.  

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Great-I’ll check with the meter. Also, I appreciate the pdf!!!

Thank you all and I’ll report back on progress. It’s raining a bit today so I hope to start tomorrow! 

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Check the 90 amp fuse at starter and also check the engine wiring harness plug in back of the engine. Sometimes they loosen if the clamp isn't tight.

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Ok update time! I took the mutimeter around. Batt is good and some of the wiring was corroded. Went around with tester and cleaned connections under helm from batt to starter/solenoid, and behind alternator. 

I have 2 questions:

1. I’m getting a good reading to the 90amp fuse from batt side but low on outgoing side. Could it be a blown 90amp? 

2. 50amp circuit breaker..mine has the red reset and a yellow arm looking thing that swivels. When I push the red button in it doesn’t stay in. Is it supposed to?

 

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Not much knowledge on electrical stuff but In regards to the 90amp fuse. I am getting power from the batt side.

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If the new 90 blows again ?  You do have a serious short somewhere.  DO NOT  keep putting in new 90 fuses. Post back.

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Caution you could have a starter STUCK with the starter jammed into the engine flywheel. I would remove a battery lead. THEN CHANGE the 90 amp fuse.   THEN RECONNECT the battery lead.  That will prevent the overloaded fuse from burning your fingers.

It would also prevent the arcing from ruining the clean flat surfaces.

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thank you for the word of caution! Is there a way I can isolate that fuse to check if it’s the fuse itself, ie remove fuse entirely and test? Also, Should I remove started and have that checked? 

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Does anyone have a link to the service manual I need? 

2012 chap h20 sport19

merc 3.0 MPI alpha one, gen II I believe. 

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Yes, remove the fuse, change your meter to ohms and check between the two ends for continuity.

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