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DarkMantle

Does the galley refrigerator have a drain?

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My wild areess  guess is.   They are doing effectively PIECE WORK with a bonus that is increased with larger quotas each shift. The people learn quickly how to increase the daily output.

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20 hours ago, Curt said:

Wow. Glad you caught and corrected both areas. I guess their motto is out of sight doesn’t matter. Who would leave holes like that. Unreal.

Yeah.  If the shop forman didn't see the wrongly drilled holes and the guys installing the seat just covered it up and then put the heat deflecting insulation underneath so he couldn't see it, then it's the hacks who are drilling and doing the assembly that are to blame.  But if he saw it, then he had to contemplate whether to get another entire new seat/engine hatch (which is not a small piece, it's rather big and round at the stern) and junk that one which would be a tough thing to do TBH.  If I was him I'm not sure I would do that and cost the company that loss.  But I would most definitely patch the gaddam holes for crying out loud.  The fact they just left them is what really sucks.  Luckily water doesn't get under the pad.  It's pretty tight and rolls around to those two, outer drain holes at the back ends and drip to the sides of the engine into the bilge. 

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29 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Yeah.  If the shop forman didn't see the wrongly drilled holes and the guys installing the seat just covered it up and then put the heat deflecting insulation underneath so he couldn't see it, then it's the hacks who are drilling and doing the assembly that are to blame.  But if he saw it, then he had to contemplate whether to get another entire new seat/engine hatch (which is not a small piece, it's rather big and round at the stern) and junk that one which would be a tough thing to do TBH.  If I was him I'm not sure I would do that and cost the company that loss.  But I would most definitely patch the gaddam holes for crying out loud.  The fact they just left them is what really sucks.  Luckily water doesn't get under the pad.  It's pretty tight and rolls around to those two, outer drain holes at the back ends and drip to the sides of the engine into the bilge. 

The part that gets me with my issues was the fact that they are in a building with bucket loads of fiberglass resin!  It would literally take take seconds with a syringe full of resin to inject in to those mis-drilled holes and be done with it.  But no, it was much more fun to chase leaks for a year due to their hack attitude.  This is obviously a used boat.  No idea how the previous owner never questioned any of this, but if I were buying new, I'm not sure if i'd look to Chaparral.  

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Curious, where does the wiring for the Lenco trim tabs enter the boat. They are attached to a part of the stern that appears to have no entry into the boat. Mine are on the extended portion of the transom that extends past the point where the outdirve mounts. Is that a solid area with no bilge access?  Just want to rule out all possibilities for water ingress. I think I know by problem but given the amount of water I get I'd like to make sure there's not other pathways. 

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2 hours ago, DarkMantle said:

Curious, where does the wiring for the Lenco trim tabs enter the boat. They are attached to a part of the stern that appears to have no entry into the boat. Mine are on the extended portion of the transom that extends past the point where the outdirve mounts. Is that a solid area with no bilge access?  Just want to rule out all possibilities for water ingress. I think I know by problem but given the amount of water I get I'd like to make sure there's not other pathways. 

I just replaced an actuator on ours this summer. Very simply, the wire enters the transom through a pre-drilled hole just above the water line. Look for it in the bilge and follow it to the transom to see exactly where it is. The hole is of course tight around the cable and sealed with marine sealant. Of course any potential water intrusion would be dependent on the quality of installation. 

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5 hours ago, DarkMantle said:

Curious, where does the wiring for the Lenco trim tabs enter the boat.

 

3 hours ago, TexasPilot71 said:

Very simply, the wire enters the transom through a pre-drilled hole just above the water line. Look for it in the bilge and follow it to the transom to see exactly where it is. The hole is of course tight around the cable and sealed with marine sealant.

From within the engine bay, look toward each corner inside of where the trailer tie-down bolts come through.  The cable is generally back, about the same diameter as a pencil.  To me the wires look more like rubber tuning.  They exit the actuator from the top, go around the pivot and enter the transom through a drilled hole "covered" by a mounting plate.  There's supposed to be a rubber grommet on the wire at the point where it goes through the exterior mounting plate.  Where the wire passes through the transom, there's supposed to be a dab of marine grade silicon. 

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14 hours ago, DarkMantle said:

Mine are on the extended portion of the transom that extends past the point where the outdirve mounts.

I believe that's what Chaparral proudly calls, the "Extended V-plane"! :mandancing:Are they recessed into the hull, or do they protrude out the back of the transom?

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2 hours ago, Hatem said:

I believe that's what Chaparral proudly calls, the "Extended V-plane"! :mandancing:Are they recessed into the hull, or do they protrude out the back of the transom?

They are mounted to a hinge right at the bottom of that V Plane and extend straight back.  Is that section solid?

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9 hours ago, DarkMantle said:

They are mounted to a hinge right at the bottom of that V Plane and extend straight back.  Is that section solid?

I would think it's pretty solid right at that corner, yep.  Mine are recessed into that corner.  And while we bust on Chaparral often enough for some quality control issues, there are some neat things they do in their designs every so often, like the shape of the arches and the hardtops to name a few, and I think this is one of them.  But it's a bit weird how they did recess them in only a few models in a few years and then stopped molding the hulls that way and went back to mounting the trim tabs on the outside.  I suppose it's quite a bit more of a complicated process to make that hull with the indents for the trim tabs and the actuator also, than it is to simply square it off and just mount them to the outside.

APEVDC9.jpg 

On the inside, that top of the actuator and wire comes into this weird, bubble-like thingamajigy.

eo0ffY8.jpg

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8 hours ago, Hatem said:

I would think it's pretty solid right at that corner, yep.  Mine are recessed into that corner.  And while we bust on Chaparral often enough for some quality control issues, there are some neat things they do in their designs every so often, like the shape of the arches and the hardtops to name a few, and I think this is one of them.  But it's a bit weird how they did recess them in only a few models in a few years and then stopped molding the hulls that way and went back to mounting the trim tabs on the outside.  I suppose it's quite a bit more of a complicated process to make that hull with the indents for the trim tabs and the actuator also, than it is to simply square it off and just mount them to the outside.

APEVDC9.jpg 

On the inside, that top of the actuator and wire comes into this weird, bubble-like thingamajigy.

eo0ffY8.jpg

That looks awesome.

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2 hours ago, DarkMantle said:

That looks awesome.

Not as awesome as you!  I'd love to ask them why they didn't keep that design on all their boats?  Just like the Extended V-Plane they're so proud of being unique to Chaparral and tout it all the time in their advertising?  Oh wait, I know, can't make enough $ from that and need to simplify things for quicker builds.

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I can why they would remove the recess mounting from a complexity stand point.  I also think the tabs could be more effective mounted farther back.

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Different. & expensive.  Better?  No comment without tests. Tabs are normally most effective when run across the end of the stern  /  transom.

 

Those appear to look & act just like speed brakes in the 1950s & 1960s jet aircraft

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36 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Different. & expensive.  Better?  No comment without tests. Tabs are normally most effective when run across the end of the stern  /  transom.

Well, that's where they are, no?

36 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Those appear to look & act just like speed brakes in the 1950s & 1960s jet aircraft

Contrary to speed brakes on something like the MiG-21 (built in the late 50's like you said), its speed brakes were mounted forward of the fuselage.  If the tabs were forward of the hull, they'd have that effect as well but obviously they're not.

53428.jpg

Their placement is more like ailerons on wings, or more like the horizontal stabilizers on most aircraft, which change pitch (trim) and roll (tilt).

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1 hour ago, Dennis A said:

I can why they would remove the recess mounting from a complexity stand point.

That seems most likely. 

1 hour ago, Dennis A said:

I also think the tabs could be more effective mounted farther back.

Need some scientific data to prove that. :D 

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As far as performance is concerned, pocketed trim tabs hold no advantage over “traditional” transom mounted Trim Tabs. In fact since the transom mounted trim tabs are slightly further aft of the boats center of balance the have a bit more leverage and are slightly more effective. Also transom mounted Tabs are often longer side to sidethen pocketed Tabs and this will give a bit more efficient shape to the Tabs as well. 

Mostly boats aimed at the fishing market will have recessed Tabs for a neat, clean and “fishing line friendly” transom.

I hope this helps,

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

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53 minutes ago, Dennis A said:

As far as performance is concerned, pocketed trim tabs hold no advantage over “traditional” transom mounted Trim Tabs. In fact since the transom mounted trim tabs are slightly further aft of the boats center of balance the have a bit more leverage and are slightly more effective. Also transom mounted Tabs are often longer side to sidethen pocketed Tabs and this will give a bit more efficient shape to the Tabs as well. 

Mostly boats aimed at the fishing market will have recessed Tabs for a neat, clean and “fishing line friendly” transom.

I hope this helps,

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

The point about them being slightly more effective by having them further aft of the hull's center of gravity or balance does make sense actually.  The one thing that was a little frustrating for a while until I got used to it is how the push buttons are criss-crossed.  Right button is for the port tab while the left one is for the starboard one.  I have no idea what the benefit of that is, except to confuse you.

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

he one thing that was a little frustrating for a while until I got used to it is how the push buttons are criss-crossed.  Right button is for the port tab while the left one is for the starboard one.  I have no idea what the benefit of that is, except to confuse you.

@Tab man has an answer for you:

Trim Tabs work across the boat, in other words when you lower the port Trim Tab the starboard bow will go down, and visa versa. The rocker switches on trim tabs are set up to reflect this. You push the switch in the direction you want the boat to respond. If you push the forward right hand button the left trim tab will go down, resulting in the right hand bow lowering. It is quite intuitive to have the switch set up this way and most people do not even realize that is how the Tabs are reacting. But some people do want the control switch to reflect the way the Tabs are moving not the way the boat is reacting. So in our instructions we point that out and tell you how to do that. 



If you want to have the Tabs work on the same side of the control, i.e. the right hand button controls the starboard Tab, which is ok, some people prefer that. To change the way the switch works simply reverse the positions of the red and green wire where they attach to the back of the switch.

 

27517181996_ee620f0140_o.jpg

 


I hope this helps,
Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

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On 9/21/2018 at 1:06 PM, Dennis A said:

But some people do want the control switch to reflect the way the Tabs are moving not the way the boat is reacting.

That's me!  :)

On 9/21/2018 at 1:06 PM, Dennis A said:

If you want to have the Tabs work on the same side of the control, i.e. the right hand button controls the starboard Tab, which is ok, some people prefer that. To change the way the switch works simply reverse the positions of the red and green wire where they attach to the back of the switch.

Excellent.  Another item written on my "to-do" list for the fall.  The only time I think of pitching the bow up or down is when I'm thinking of trimming the boat to get on plane and getting that sweet spot.  That means both tabs evenly.  Every so often there's a need to adjust tilt because of uneven load on one side or the other and if it's tilting to starboard, I want to drop the starboard tab.  Tilting to port, drop the port tab.  Keep it simple. 

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