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Makolab

Serious leak from transom area

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No pressure at all from the mechanic. He will do whatever I want to do. He's been my mechanic / boat guy for many years and I have a good relationship with him.

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If it were me, I'd do the minimum cost wise and take it as an opportunity to get into the mid 2000's at least.  Lots of great boats out there for under 50k.  

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23 hours ago, Makolab said:

UPDATE:

So the engine and the outdrive are still off of the boat and my boat guy is cool about it.  Said I could take my time fixing the genny.  That's another issue.

Here are my 3 options with his round about prices.  Does not include installation since the cost for that will be the same for all 3 choices.

Choice 1-  Keep the old outdrive, clean it up of all of the corrosion, (does not appear to be pitted from the corrosion), will replace the water hose, spray paint with corrosion inhibitor and paint it.  Does not address the small leak from the steering arm. Cost 500.  Also includes the new gasket.

Choice 2- Everything from choice one but will address the leak.  Will replace the steering arm, seals and the shaft as well.  Cost 1500.  Mostly labor.

Choice 3- Buy a whole new outdrive.  Cost 3000.

Wife and I rule out number one. We plan on keeping the boat for a long time.  No plans to get rid of her in the future.

BTW-  It is a BRAVO 3 outdrive.

Thanks for your input.

All of this really depends on where exactly did he say the leak was coming from?  In your other post, you said this:

On ‎9‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 2:01 PM, Makolab said:

Update:  It appears that the leak is coming from the transom assembly.  They had to take out the engine and they took the assembly off from the inside and the outside.  There appears to be lots of superficial corrosion, heavier on the lower corners, and the steering mechanism has a lot of rust but my boat guy says it looks worse then it really is.  It  appears that there has been a slow leak from the steering rod that has worked its way down both sides of the assembly thus causing the corrosion issue.  There is also a water inlet hose that the corrosion caused to collapse but I never had an overheat issue since water was still coming through but restricted.

All of these descriptions indicate slow leaks, but your video is showing a pretty strong flow of water coming in and that is much more serious than the slow leak descriptions above.  I hope you showed the mechanic the video so he can see that the water is coming in dangerously fast and through a rather heavily compromised part. 

If he's saying the corrosion is somewhat superficial and no pitting, then it can't be the transom assembly itself that is leaking that badly.  It the steering pin and arm have developed rust and a slow leak in time, they can't be the culprit either.  That leak looks like a bad transom assembly seal/gasket to be letting in that much water in at that rate, or the pivot pin seal is worn out completely and the water is coming in from there.

So if the assembly doesn't require much repairing of the corrosion and the steering bar is a slow leak, and he said:

"clean it up of all of the corrosion, (does not appear to be pitted from the corrosion) "

...then it must not be that bad and no need to buy a whole new TA.  I think you should find out from him where he thinks that heavy leaking is coming from exactly.  Show him that video and if it's mostly the assembly seal, then you might not need a whole new assembly.

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Choice 2.  I don't think it will cost 1000 more than choice 1.  I think choice one is under priced if that includes the labor of R&I.

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+1. Get the leak fixed, otherwise why do any of the work. If the leak isn’t addressed, you’ll be back in there and paying again. 

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He said that the gasket for the transom assembly was bad for sure. As the assembly was being pulled from the transom of the boat by the corrosion, the gasket stayed flat which is what allowed the water to run in so quickly. I sent him the video way before I took the boat in for any service.

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19 hours ago, Makolab said:

He said that the gasket for the transom assembly was bad for sure. As the assembly was being pulled from the transom of the boat by the corrosion, the gasket stayed flat which is what allowed the water to run in so quickly. I sent him the video way before I took the boat in for any service.

I just wanted to be sure that you showed him the video, so that's a good thing.  That's interesting that the corrosion was causing the assembly to pull away from the transom.  That sounds like some pretty serious corrosion to push the assembly (which is a pretty solid, single piece of dense aluminum) away from the transom enough to pull the gasket with it and open the space between the gasket and the boat's transom.  That doesn't sound like superficial corrosion and minor pitting.  That sounds like a badly corroded transom assembly to have that happen.  Maybe even some warpage going on there.  There are 8 bolts that hold that TA tight to the inner transom shield pinching the living daylights out of that transom seal.  Perhaps he meant the corrosion ate out the rubber on the seal and opened a space to let it water?  That, I would buy and have actually seen myself.  In that case I would be ok with option #2. 

But if the transom assembly actually did this:

19 hours ago, Makolab said:

As the assembly was being pulled from the transom of the boat by the corrosion, the gasket stayed flat which is what allowed the water to run in so quickly.

Did he actually say that, or is that your assumption?  Because that does not sound like a transom assembly I would want fixed up and reinstalled on my boat to be perfectly honest with you.  No matter how well it's fixed because if it pulled away, there might be more going on than just corrosion.  For the extra $1,500 and knowing not only the peace of mind that would come with the additional expense, but knowing my family and I have a much greater chance of being safe out in open Florida ocean, I wouldn't hesitate one minute to go with option #3, especially if you're keeping the boat for a while.

Any chance you can post a few pics of that transom assembly and even the seal?  Also take a close look at all 8 bolts and if any are severely corroded.  That would really be the only way (besides a warpage) that would allow the transom assembly to pull away from the transom.  And I believe the bolts are threaded into a threaded female slot in the transom assembly, so that threaded slot needs to have good, solid integrity to hold the bolts against the tightening torque of the washer & nut on the inside of the transom shield.  These are all critical things you should probably know their status before deciding to fix that TA or just go with a new one.

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I would add the missing grease fitting to the new or reconed housing . It will prevent rusting of the steering pin that takes out the seal.

Very easy install on all the drives

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6 minutes ago, Bt Doctur said:

I would add the missing grease fitting to the new or reconed housing . It will prevent rusting of the steering pin that takes out the seal.

Very easy install on all the drives

@Bt DocturI "think" I have seen your install procedure floating around the interwebs, can you post a link to it again if it indeed is yours?  

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Sorry it took so long for some pics.  You can see the steering arm and if you look down the side, there is a rust line which leads the boat guy to think there is a slow leak in the seals.  Those are the parts that he will replace as mentioned in the 3 choices.  My wife and I have ruled out option 1.  We want the leak fixed.

20180925_160220.jpg

20180925_160213.jpg

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  What do the insides of the external drive unit look like ?  Upper & lower ?

Wingnut & others.  Need a board of directors best guess meeting.

Is it worth it ? For a long term boat ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cleaning this one up including replacing the mounting studs might not be worth the labor versus just finding a clean used one.  Replacing the swivel shaft seal/bushings/pin should probably be done with another used one before installing anyway.  

 

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3 hours ago, Dennis A said:

Cleaning this one up including replacing the mounting studs might not be worth the labor versus just finding a clean used one.  Replacing the swivel shaft seal/bushings/pin should probably be done with another used one before installing anyway.  

Yeah that steering arm is a mess and that's where it seems like a slow leak through time ended up corroding the @#$%@# out of that one center stud on the right side looking at the pic and definitely   the two bottom ones.  All that corrosion and rust probably ate away at the assembly seal as well.  But I think most of that water was just coming from the steering arm and getting through the transom through one of the openings and not necessarily through the assembly seal.

Those studs are threaded into that assembly aren't they?  Or are they welded in place?

BTW, this is almost identical to @DarkMantle's transom leaking issue.  I bet it's the same exact leak coming in from that pivot pin seal and through the steering arm and then down through one of the transom openings and into the bilge.  Except this one might be a bit worst, but essentially the same thing which seems to be a common Merc Bravo III problem.

@Makolab, you said in one of your previous posts that the installation labor cost was the same for all options, did he give you that number yet?

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Replacement is your best option ,that leak has been there for a very long time  post 2 in here  I`ll check for another video but you locate the center, drill the first hole with a #3 drill 3/8ths deep.Then switch to a 1/8 inch. Watch the filings coming out. First is aluminum, then brass, then steel, now STOP

Tap 1/4 x 28 for the grease fitting and grease.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/how-to-install-the-missing-grease-fitting-that-prevents-steeering-arm-water-leakage.68348/#post-775729

 

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I’m still Choice 2 with all new studs at the price noted in one of the other posts. If there are nicks, dents, cuts or corrosion pockmarks on any of the seal or matting surfaces, or the gimbal is questionable, or the studs can’t be removed/changed, I’d move to clean used or Choice 3. Adding a grease zerk is must whichever direction. She’s seen some water.

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Boat dude did say something about bravoitis. Said it was a real thing.

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1 hour ago, Bt Doctur said:

nope, corrosion closed it up

Thank you. Extreme for sure.

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On ‎10‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 10:22 AM, Makolab said:

Sorry it took so long for some pics.  You can see the steering arm and if you look down the side, there is a rust line which leads the boat guy to think there is a slow leak in the seals.  Those are the parts that he will replace as mentioned in the 3 choices.  My wife and I have ruled out option 1.  We want the leak fixed.

20180925_160213.jpg

You can see part of the gasket still stuck in its channel at the top of the assembly.  I think the prevailing sentiment here is to let this one go and decide between a lightly used one like Dennis suggested or go with a new one. 

Would your boat guy be ok with you supplying the transom assembly yourself?  If so, here's a used one for Bravo III for under half the price of a new one.

http://www.shipwrecksalvage.net/mercruiser-bravo-transom-assembly-p-4991.html

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