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BusterDouglas

Need Help on recent boat purchase

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Hello Everyone,

 I am new to boating, this is my very first boat and first time actually driving a boat to be honest, I began my research into boat manufacturers, engines, outdrives etc.

I had narrowed it down to Chapparal with a min. 350 Mag MPI and Bravo 3, but I had no idea what length I would feel comfortable in to start with.  The only stipulation was that it had to have a head for the wife.

I found a 2002 Chaparral 260 Signature with the 350 Mag MPI  with 450 hours and Bravo 3. It has a built in generator, windlass, Heating and A/C, came with a Lowrance Structure scan/GPS, it was on a trailer and was listed for $35,000 CAD as the owner needed a quick sale,  I put down a deposit with conditions of marine survey and sea trial. Here is a link to the entire marine survey.  https://www.dropbox.com/s/0czpl50tt61numa/boat survey.pdf?dl=0

After the marine survey came back  with no MAJOR issues,  I offered $30,000 CAD knowing it may need some Gel Coat repair to fix the popped blisters, so he accepted my offer.

 Boat will be kept out of water on trailer and in fresh water only.

Now the reason for me writing this

 I noticed a small vertical crack along the forward corner of each of the  engine mounts that didnt seem to come up in the marine survey. 

Should I fill the small blisters  or just leave it as per marine survey and just keep an eye on it? 

It has no bottom paint and this concerns me.

Do I clean this up boat up and try to get what I paid for it or not panic, leave it as is because if something structurally was to go wrong it would have occurred by now?  

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

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16 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

Hello Everyone,

 I am new to boating, this is my very first boat and first time actually driving a boat to be honest, I began my research into boat manufacturers, engines, outdrives etc.

I had narrowed it down to Chapparal with a min. 350 Mag MPI and Bravo 3, but I had no idea what length I would feel comfortable in to start with.  The only stipulation was that it had to have a head for the wife.

I found a 2002 Chaparral 260 Signature with the 350 Mag MPI  with 450 hours and Bravo 3. It has a built in generator, windlass, Heating and A/C, came with a Lowrance Structure scan/GPS, it was on a trailer and was listed for $35,000 CAD as the owner needed a quick sale,  I put down a deposit with conditions of marine survey and sea trial. Here is a link to the entire marine survey.  https://www.dropbox.com/s/0czpl50tt61numa/boat survey.pdf?dl=0

After the marine survey came back  with no MAJOR issues,  I offered $30,000 CAD knowing it may need some Gel Coat repair to fix the popped blisters, so he accepted my offer.

 Boat will be kept out of water on trailer and in fresh water only.

Now the reason for me writing this

 I noticed a small vertical crack along the forward corner of each of the  engine mounts that didnt seem to come up in the marine survey. 

Should I fill the small blisters  or just leave it as per marine survey and just keep an eye on it? 

It has no bottom paint and this concerns me.

Do I clean this up boat up and try to get what I paid for it or not panic, leave it as is because if something structurally was to go wrong it would have occurred by now?  

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

I would contact the marine surveyor that did the inspection and have him come out and reinspect that area, to see if he had missed it, or if it is only cosmetic.  Denny.

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Thanks for the reply Denny.  I will contact him but I doubt he will come out as it is over 2 hours away.

Other option is to pay for another marine survey or take it to a local marina for an idea of repair costs.  I was going to buy a moisture Reader (CT33) http://www.electrophysics.on.ca/ but dont think that will help because the bildge is wet and I wont get a proper reading. I have seen a few other posts on the vertical crack issue where engine mounts are and most say it is not a problem. Anyone have this issue before?

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5 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Anyone have this issue before?

Yeah it's pretty common.  I do agree with Denny, have the surveyor take another look at it because I read the entire report you posted and he didn't seem concerned about the mounts at all.  At least ask him why he wasn't concerned.

Best thing to do to ease your mind a little (at least I know this would work for me) is get it on the trailer, bring it home, take your time and drain that bilge and let it dry.  Then clean it as best you can.  Then you address that and if it's only superficial, there are several ways to fix it very easily.

BTW, Buster Douglass/Mike Tyson was one of the best fights I've ever seen!

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Thank-you for the information Hatem and taking your time to read the survey. I plan on bringing it home and doing a thorough cleaning of the bilge before winterizing and plan to store it indoors over the winter( not heated :( ) but then will check moisture readings before launching in the spring.  I will post the response from the marine surveyor here.

 

Any thoughts on the blisters/gelcoat and how to proceed with bottom paint, or just leave it.  I only worry if wife wants a slip in the spring and it needs to be painted but cant because blister issue.

From my understanding the gelcoat needs to be stripped, then dried out, then a barrier coating, faired/eboxy, then it can be painted which could take months and I want to actually use the boat next year.  Keep in mind I feel I didnt pay a lot for this vessel $29000 and I have no idea when to invest in repairs/preventative maintenance and when not to is where I am lost.

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43 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Thank-you for the information Hatem and taking your time to read the survey. I plan on bringing it home and doing a thorough cleaning of the bilge before winterizing and plan to store it indoors over the winter( not heated :( ) but then will check moisture readings before launching in the spring.  I will post the response from the marine surveyor here.

No problem.  I'm sure others will chime in.  When you put the deposit under condition of survey and sea trial, did you actually do the sea trial or not?  I didn't see anything that suggested if you actually took the boat out and by the surveyor's wording, it sounds like he didn't either and did a dry survey only, is that correct?  If so, here's what I would do:  since it really does sound like you saved a decent amount of money on this boat and you are new to boating, find a local captain you can hire for the day.  This is exactly what I did and it was one of the best $600 I ever spent.  He came with us from our house to the ramp, showed us how to launch safely off the trailer, how to do daily engine and safety checks, how to start the boat, what systems to keep an eye on and how to safely pull away from the dock and go through the channels etc.  Well worth it.  And if you can and have the time, both, you and your wife should take the USCG safety and seamanship course.  You'll learn a lot about boating and everything that comes with it. 

At the same time, you can check the systems that the surveyor wasn't able to do with the boat on the trailer such as the windlass, the generator and other mechanical systems that need to function on the water and that are important for that boat.  You're fortunate to be able to put it in the garage for the winter, even without heat.  Most of us have to shrink wrap and use the driveway or find and pay for marina storage. 

43 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Any thoughts on the blisters/gelcoat and how to proceed with bottom paint, or just leave it.  I only worry if wife wants a slip in the spring and it needs to be painted but cant because blister issue.

From the pictures of those popped blisters, they look very minor.  If that's all that is there on a 16 year-old boat along with some evidence of previous gelcoat repair work here and there, you're doing fine.  And if you're going to keep it in a slip (which is what I would do for sure because trailering a boat that size and weight every time you want to go boating will be a royal pain in the asss), then I would definitely get it bottom painted.  That'll take care of any of those blisters. 

43 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

From my understanding the gelcoat needs to be stripped, then dried out, then a barrier coating, faired/eboxy, then it can be painted which could take months and I want to actually use the boat next year.  Keep in mind I feel I didnt pay a lot for this vessel $29000 and I have no idea when to invest in repairs/preventative maintenance and when not to is where I am lost.

It won't take months to have the bottom painted.  Are you planning on doing it yourself?  I wouldn't TBH and I consider myself to have the skill and tools to be able to do it but that's a bear of project that is nothing but tedious, dusty and boring work.  I'd have a marina or a dealership do it professionally and that takes 2 or 3 days max.  Decide what you want to do and get it lined up now.  They'll strip all that gelcoat and sand it down (blisters will be obliterated along with any other imperfections) and a nice, straight line marked a couple of inches above the water line and you're good to go. 

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Very valuable insight. Thanks again.  Let me clarify a few things.  I did have a sea trial and everything was functioning as it should such as generator, windlass, head, lights, A/C, fridge etc. the only thing not tested is the fireboy auto extinguisher( lets hope I never have too). It ran very smooth.

Up here is Canada we have a power squadron course I plan on taking but have already passed and obtained the required license for operating a boat.

I have launched the boat and put back on the trailer several time now, towed it several hundred kilometers, no issues. I have docked it many times (stern first) no issues and also went through some of the Trent-Severn Waterway Lock system without problems.

The boat gets onto plane fast, no other issues or concerns. Just the crack in the engine mount and the blisters.

So you think it would be ok to just have the popped blisters filled with epoxy and then the anti fouling paint applied without stripping gelcoat and all that? This is where I am at a bit of a loss and want to ensure a marina doesnt take advantage of my lack of knowledge. 

To be honest, I do not mind spending $ on this boat as my original budget was $50,000 so I do have $20,000 to put back into it assuming I dont join the 2 foot club and upgrade next spring to a bigger vessel.

 

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Reviewed the survey.

(a) It seems the best course of action is to have a qualified fiberglass shop inspect the cracks, and determine if the motor mounts are wet or not. They appear superficial, not structural. Given the bilge is sometimes wet, the best path is to have each repaired to ensure moisture cannot be absorbed (and a larger future problem avoided).

(b) Regarding the blisters, painting before fixing will likely lead to more problems down the road. Grind each down to solid material, fill and top/blend the gelcoat to match. Given the bottom will be painted, a perfect color match isn't needed but gelcoat should be applied over each repair. The shop that does the motor mounts can do these also, and likely the bottom paint.

Perhaps a few thousand, certainly not tens. Nothing to panic over. No need to second guess much if at all. Best wishes.

 

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20 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

Very valuable insight. Thanks again.  Let me clarify a few things.  I did have a sea trial and everything was functioning as it should such as generator, windlass, head, lights, A/C, fridge etc. the only thing not tested is the fireboy auto extinguisher( lets hope I never have too). It ran very smooth.

Up here is Canada we have a power squadron course I plan on taking but have already passed and obtained the required license for operating a boat.

I have launched the boat and put back on the trailer several time now, towed it several hundred kilometers, no issues. I have docked it many times (stern first) no issues and also went through some of the Trent-Severn Waterway Lock system without problems.

Oh man, you don't sound like a newbie!  Didn't get this impression from your first post.  You're all set then and I forgot you are in Canada.

20 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

So you think it would be ok to just have the popped blisters filled with epoxy and then the anti fouling paint applied without stripping gelcoat and all that?

Nope, that's not what I said.  I said if you decide to get it bottom painted, I would have a shop do it (which is why I discouraged you personally from doing it) and they will strip the gelcoat and in the process those blisters (if they are indeed only in the gelcoat) will be obliterated, gonzo with the stripping and sanding and prepping they do to make it ready for bottom paint.

20 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

This is where I am at a bit of a loss and want to ensure a marina doesnt take advantage of my lack of knowledge. 

So I had mine done by the dealership.  This is what it ended up looking like the first season we had it slipped without bottom paint.  It took a beating from the marine growth and I don't think salt water growth is any worst that freshwater growth, with the exception of maybe we have barnacles attaching themselves on our boats in salt water than you guys is FW.  IT had fur growing on it by late August.

mVXvLM2.jpg

It was worst on port than starboard for some reason.

bAxdwR0.jpg

It came off and looked brand new again, that wasn't the problem.  The problem was that sucked a$$ getting rid of all that crap.  Very tedious process not to mention I noticed at least a 10mph drop in speed (maybe more since I don't do WOT at all) from this stuff dragging the boat.

Next spring, at the dealer.

 

JcCLYsm.jpg

Now after a full season in the slip, I get barely a few dark spots of very light growth and it comes off with my pressure washer and I don't even paint over it every year, but every other year.

A 260 Signature is not exactly a small boat.  Trailering that every time you want to go out is doable.  I did it for the first year and a half but got tired of it really quickly.

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12 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Oh man, you don't sound like a newbie!  Didn't get this impression from your first post.  You're all set then and I forgot you are in Canada.

Nope, that's not what I said.  I said if you decide to get it bottom painted, I would have a shop do it (which is why I discouraged you personally from doing it) and they will strip the gelcoat and in the process those blisters (if they are indeed only in the gelcoat) will be obliterated, gonzo with the stripping and sanding and prepping they do to make it ready for bottom paint.

So I had mine done by the dealership.  This is what it ended up looking like the first season we had it slipped without bottom paint.  It took a beating from the marine growth and I don't think salt water growth is any worst that freshwater growth, with the exception of maybe we have barnacles attaching themselves on our boats in salt water than you guys is FW.  IT had fur growing on it by late August.

mVXvLM2.jpg

It was worst on port than starboard for some reason.

bAxdwR0.jpg

It came off and looked brand new again, that wasn't the problem.  The problem was that sucked a$$ getting rid of all that crap.  Very tedious process not to mention I noticed at least a 10mph drop in speed (maybe more since I don't do WOT at all) from this stuff dragging the boat.

Next spring, at the dealer.

 

JcCLYsm.jpg

Now after a full season in the slip, I get barely a few dark spots of very light growth and it comes off with my pressure washer and I don't even paint over it every year, but every other year.

A 260 Signature is not exactly a small boat.  Trailering that every time you want to go out is doable.  I did it for the first year and a half but got tired of it really quickly.

And it's done right. So many DIY painters here follow the boot stripe or side band for their tape line, and not the water line. Really looks stupid IMHO.  Back in 88 I did my new 30' SR with TBD tin based clear bottom paint which was amazing and even dried gloss clear. Two years later the EPA outlawed it for all the right reasons, but the US Navy was exempted as they used it on aircraft carriers and the like. Yikes...   Seems the more conventional bottom paints slowed their ships down too much. Pettit Powercoat hard epoxy with copious copper oxide worked pretty good too.   W

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wow all excellent advice.  I definitely will not tackle painting the bottom myself. I just wanted to know if the entire gelcoat needed to be stripped in order to fix the blisters.  Because I am new, I didnt know if the bottom paint can go directly on the gelcoat or if the gelcoat had to be sanded/stripped anyways for bottom paint to adhere. I have so much to learn and need to read a lot more of these forums,  then ask these questions. I have never owned a boat, never driven one before and never looked at one before,. I found this vessel online after doing my research, put a deposit on it and paid a marine surveyor, then did sea trial after surveyor said he would feel safe in the purchase, so I hope that I didnt make an impulse buy because I needed to act fast before wife changed her mind about getting a boat! (Thank God she likes it)

The boat is fully insured for what I paid for it, so others have told me just let it be and enjoy it and dont spend more $ into it unless I plan to sell, since $23000 USD ($29000 CAD) isnt a lot of money in the boating world for a fresh water boat and in Canada (Smaller market than USA). 

Most advice that has been given to me is if I plan to keep it trailered and only keeping in the water less than a week , do not bother painting but if I plan on getting a  in a slip for an entire season, getting it painted is a must! 

Guess next thing is to ask on these forums a reputable fiberglass shop around me.

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18 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

wow all excellent advice.  I definitely will not tackle painting the bottom myself. I just wanted to know if the entire gelcoat needed to be stripped in order to fix the blisters.  Because I am new, I didnt know if the bottom paint can go directly on the gelcoat or if the gelcoat had to be sanded/stripped anyways for bottom paint to adhere. I have so much to learn and need to read a lot more of these forums,  then ask these questions. I have never owned a boat, never driven one before and never looked at one before,. I found this vessel online after doing my research, put a deposit on it and paid a marine surveyor, then did sea trial after surveyor said he would feel safe in the purchase, so I hope that I didnt make an impulse buy because I needed to act fast before wife changed her mind about getting a boat! (Thank God she likes it)

It sounds like you're doing a pretty good job so far, ma man.  But I think we've figured out who's boss in that house.  :D Don't mind me it's all in friendly ball busting.

So back to the prepping.  The gelcoat on most of these boats is barely 1/16th of an inch, so it's not much.  I know this because I've drilled several holes into my boat in different areas and have seen the different layers of material and the gelcoat is barely a 1/16" maybe slightly thicker.  Basically a strong millimeter so it's not thick at all and that makes sense that it's that thin because when they make these hulls, they spray the gelcoat right onto the mold of the specific boat's hull they're building.  The mold is a very shiny, slippery, plasticy surface (basically a tub of the outside shape of the hull).  They clean it very carefully, coat it with wax so when the hull is built up, the wax acts as a releasing agent so they can pop the hull out easily.  Then they spray the gelcoat onto that cleaned and waxed mold until it's all covered and then they build their layers of fiberglass on top of that gelcoat until they get to the hull thickness they want (which is usually around 1/2"-5/8" for our sized boats) and then they pop it out of the mold.  The gelcoat they sprayed is now the shiny finish of the outside of the hull. 

So you can imagine how thin that gelcoat actually is if it's essentially a sprayed film of paint.  It's a bit deceiving because they call it "gelcoat" so you automatically think it's some type of thick gel which it really isn't.  It's consistency is much closer to a high-gloss latex paint than any kind of gel.

All that said, it doesn't take much to strip it BUT, most shops won't strip it completely for bottom paint.   They don't need to. Most shops will clean it really well with acetone, then use a 40/80 - grit sandpaper on an orbital sander and just sand the crap out of the bottom up to the taped waterline mark.  Then they clean the sanded surface with acetone and  prime it and apply the antifouling or bottom paint (which that actually looks much more like gel especially the black stuff) but it's still just slippery paint.

So if in fact those blisters and imperfections are only gelcoat surface deep, they might not disappear completely but they'll be sanded enough to have the thick, bottom paint applied cover where they were and you'll hardly see them, if at all.  If you have deep gouges and stuff like that, they'll fill those in with epoxy (like you said) and sand them before applying the bottom paint.   

18 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

The boat is fully insured for what I paid for it, so others have told me just let it be and enjoy it and dont spend more $ into it unless I plan to sell, since $23000 USD ($29000 CAD) isnt a lot of money in the boating world for a fresh water boat and in Canada (Smaller market than USA). 

Enjoy it is right, but nothing wrong with spending money on it to improve it.  Heck I've put a fortune into my boat (so have others here) and still going lol but one thing I don't do is pu$$y foot my enjoyment out of it.  Some people are obsessed with keeping their boats in mint condition and looking like a garage queen because they have some obsession about eventually selling it (or for whatever reason) and that's fine, but these people most certainly don't get the most out of their boat that way, that's for dam sure.  For example they see salt water and they freak out "OH NOOOO (put arm against eyes) I can't look at salt water AAAAAAH I'm gonna die my life is ruined quick put the boat back in the garage!!!!" 

For you, on a lake, bottom painting it and fixing that mount crack in the bilge and maybe replacing the GPS to a better and newer model and a few other upgrades here and there is perfectly fine. 

Whatever you do, document and keep track of all the work you've done to it.  I have a folder marked "Boat Upgrades & Repairs" and have all my receipts for everything I've spent on it since I bought it including notes of modifications I've done to it myself which accounts for saved labor costs.  So I went back in there to find the receipt for the bottom paint to give you an idea of that cost and it was $1,800 USD.  And things are not necessarily cheap around here, outer Boston suburb.

18 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

Most advice that has been given to me is if I plan to keep it trailered and only keeping in the water less than a week , do not bother painting but if I plan on getting a  in a slip for an entire season, getting it painted is a must!

Yep.  There are also some steps to take to protect the outdrive as well.  We can get to those when you're ready and if you do bottom paint.  There's also a few threads on this forum on outdrive care. 

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Awesome advice,

Yeah no offense on who wears the pants to be honest. The wife is also the bread winner (She is a partner in largest account firm in the world) so she does get final say, hence the reason why I went low on my first boat purchase as I was sure to get audited!

Thanks for insight on Gelcoat, I thought it was the outer "white" coating on the boat, not a clear film no thicker than a mil.  I will let the boat dry out over winter and get it prepped for blister repair (as I can see blue so that might be fiberglass showing), then have it painted in March/April and get crack filled in engine mount. 

I was thinking of winterizing it myself and have watched a lot of youtube videos on what steps to do:

1) add fuel stabilizer

2) Run Engine for 10 min and then change oil & filter 

3) use proper engine antifreeze such as (Pure Oceans Antifreeze and Coolant), run it through engine with muffs until pink comes out 

4) fogging engine

5) changing stern drive gear oil

6) winterize fresh water system with non-toxic -50 or -100.

7) winterize generator.  The only thing I am not 100% confident how to do.

8) pull batteries and bring them indoors

9) clean out fore and aft bilge areas (both need a good cleaning)

Temperature is dropping fast now, so less than a month of the season left, so I better figure things out soon.

 

Hope there isn't anything I have left out or if I shouldn't tackle this right off the start.  keep in mind every $ deer I save the happier the auditor will be.

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1 hour ago, BusterDouglas said:

Yeah no offense on who wears the pants to be honest. The wife is also the bread winner (She is a partner in largest account firm in the world) so she does get final say, hence the reason why I went low on my first boat purchase as I was sure to get audited!

Hahaa, yeah you don't want to get audited by the boss, that's for sure. 

1 hour ago, BusterDouglas said:

Thanks for insight on Gelcoat, I thought it was the outer "white" coating on the boat, not a clear film no thicker than a mil. 

It is the outer white coat.  I think you might be confusing the other member's post who was talking about a clear, bottom paint that was legal back in the '80s but isn't any more.  The gelcoat application that I was referring to is the white, factory finish on the bottom of the hull.  It's a very thin layer.  You could probably see how thin it is at the blisters.

 

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21 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

Awesome advice,

Yeah no offense on who wears the pants to be honest. The wife is also the bread winner (She is a partner in largest account firm in the world) so she does get final say, hence the reason why I went low on my first boat purchase as I was sure to get audited!

Thanks for insight on Gelcoat, I thought it was the outer "white" coating on the boat, not a clear film no thicker than a mil.  I will let the boat dry out over winter and get it prepped for blister repair (as I can see blue so that might be fiberglass showing), then have it painted in March/April and get crack filled in engine mount. 

I was thinking of winterizing it myself and have watched a lot of youtube videos on what steps to do:

1) add fuel stabilizer

2) Run Engine for 10 min and then change oil & filter 

3) use proper engine antifreeze such as (Pure Oceans Antifreeze and Coolant), run it through engine with muffs until pink comes out 

4) fogging engine

5) changing stern drive gear oil

6) winterize fresh water system with non-toxic -50 or -100.

7) winterize generator.  The only thing I am not 100% confident how to do.

8) pull batteries and bring them indoors

9) clean out fore and aft bilge areas (both need a good cleaning)

Temperature is dropping fast now, so less than a month of the season left, so I better figure things out soon.

 

Hope there isn't anything I have left out or if I shouldn't tackle this right off the start.  keep in mind every $ deer I save the happier the auditor will be.

Anyone see any steps I missed in winterizing process other than the shrink wrap which I plan to store indoors?

19 hours ago, Hatem said:

Hahaa, yeah you don't want to get audited by the boss, that's for sure. 

It is the outer white coat.  I think you might be confusing the other member's post who was talking about a clear, bottom paint that was legal back in the '80s but isn't any more.  The gelcoat application that I was referring to is the white, factory finish on the bottom of the hull.  It's a very thin layer.  You could probably see how thin it is at the blisters.

 

So as per pictures in marine survey, the chipped white showing blue is the fiberglass and that is what needs to be epoxy, just want to be clear on that. Would I be able to use something like MagicEzy http://magicezy.com/ anyone have experience with this product?

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19 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Anyone see any steps I missed in winterizing process other than the shrink wrap which I plan to store indoors?

So as per pictures in marine survey, the chipped white showing blue is the fiberglass and that is what needs to be epoxy, just want to be clear on that. Would I be able to use something like MagicEzy http://magicezy.com/ anyone have experience with this product?

Here are a few photos of how I do mine.   W

http://s526.photobucket.com/user/wingnutmfs/library/Winterization Merc 496256 SSX

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23 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

Wow, makes me wish I had a 496 Merc HO 425 HP with Bravo III-X Drive so I could copy this exactly. Do you mind me asking where you bought all of your gear? and by the way, thanks so much for sharing Wingnut. 

If anyone has a 350 Mag and has steps like Wingnut, please share. This is very informative and helpful.  

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42 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Wow, makes me wish I had a 496 Merc HO 425 HP with Bravo III-X Drive so I could copy this exactly. Do you mind me asking where you bought all of your gear? and by the way, thanks so much for sharing Wingnut. 

If anyone has a 350 Mag and has steps like Wingnut, please share. This is very informative and helpful.  

The muffs are OEM Merc and they have a center rod that goes through one side of the drive and out the other and prevents them from slipping off during operation. The plastic bucket is an empty hydraulic oil container with a clear PVC hose attached, and it has an internal dip tube that reaches very near the bottom of the container. I establish a siphon feed first by tilting the bucket until the clear hose is full. I then place the bucket on the swim platform, open the valve and start the engine. It takes about 12 seconds for the empty engine to fill, and I shut her down at around 15 seconds just before the bucket goes empty which I filled with 4 gallons non-toxic RV/Marine. The gear oil tank is a reclaimed Freon tank which I re-fill with the 2-1/2 gallon bulk bottles of Merc HP gear lube. I inflate it with 30# air, which is more than enough to push the gear oil into the drive, which takes about 2 minutes. I don't need a pump to suck out the engine oil as my 496 has the oil drain hose that you pull through the garboard drain plug. If you need the OEM procedures send me a valid e-mail via a PM and I'll get PDF files to you. Just include year, model, engine make and horsepower so I don't have to go prospecting.  W

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3 hours ago, Wingnut said:

The muffs are OEM Merc and they have a center rod that goes through one side of the drive and out the other and prevents them from slipping off during operation. The plastic bucket is an empty hydraulic oil container with a clear PVC hose attached, and it has an internal dip tube that reaches very near the bottom of the container. I establish a siphon feed first by tilting the bucket until the clear hose is full. I then place the bucket on the swim platform, open the valve and start the engine. It takes about 12 seconds for the empty engine to fill, and I shut her down at around 15 seconds just before the bucket goes empty which I filled with 4 gallons non-toxic RV/Marine. The gear oil tank is a reclaimed Freon tank which I re-fill with the 2-1/2 gallon bulk bottles of Merc HP gear lube. I inflate it with 30# air, which is more than enough to push the gear oil into the drive, which takes about 2 minutes. I don't need a pump to suck out the engine oil as my 496 has the oil drain hose that you pull through the garboard drain plug. If you need the OEM procedures send me a valid e-mail via a PM and I'll get PDF files to you. Just include year, model, engine make and horsepower so I don't have to go prospecting.  W

Hi Wingnut,

I tried to send you a message and it said that you cant receive messages. Did you want me to send you an email to your yahoo email account?

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36 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

Hi Wingnut,

I tried to send you a message and it said that you cant receive messages. Did you want me to send you an email to your yahoo email account?

That would be fine. My mailbox must be full. I wish they would make it bigger as I loose good info every time I clean house. Send me an e-mail addres and I'll get the info to you.  W

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21 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

Anyone see any steps I missed in winterizing process other than the shrink wrap which I plan to store indoors?

Sounds like you have it all under control.  Nice.

21 hours ago, BusterDouglas said:

So as per pictures in marine survey, the chipped white showing blue is the fiberglass and that is what needs to be epoxy, just want to be clear on that. Would I be able to use something like MagicEzy http://magicezy.com/ anyone have experience with this product?

That looks like it should work just to fill in the blisters for now.  Definitely.  Did you talk to the surveyor about the motor mount crack and gelcoat issue in the bilge?  He didn't seem concerned about it on the report and I highly doubt he missed it.   Did you pick up a moisture meter?  I have one I use with my woods in my shop but it has a pair of prongs that you have to jab whatever material you want to test with those two, tiny, poky prongs and they leave little holes behind lol.  Ok to use on stored shop wood but not usually on a boat.  Although could probably use it in the bilge.

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25 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Sounds like you have it all under control.  Nice.

That looks like it should work just to fill in the blisters for now.  Definitely.  Did you talk to the surveyor about the motor mount crack and gelcoat issue in the bilge?  He didn't seem concerned about it on the report and I highly doubt he missed it.   Did you pick up a moisture meter?  I have one I use with my woods in my shop but it has a pair of prongs that you have to jab whatever material you want to test with those two, tiny, poky prongs and they leave little holes behind lol.  Ok to use on stored shop wood but not usually on a boat.  Although could probably use it in the bilge.

Surveyor didnt get back to me.  I havnt picked up the meter yet, still deciding if it is worth getting one or if it will just cause me more greif spending more time constantly scanning entire boat and less time on the water enjoying it.

Hard to beleive i am a boat owner for less than 2 months now yet feel like i have learned so much so fast with so much more to learn.

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15 minutes ago, BusterDouglas said:

 

Surveyor didnt get back to me.  I havnt picked up the meter yet, still deciding if it is worth getting one or if it will just cause me more greif spending more time constantly scanning entire boat and less time on the water enjoying it.

Hard to beleive i am a boat owner for less than 2 months now yet feel like i have learned so much so fast with so much more to learn.

Awesome.  Most of the stuff you'll end up learning through your own experience and trials and seeing and talking to other boaters while you're out there.  One thing that helped me out is go through the whole boat with a fine tooth comb.  Just opening areas up and investigating and seeing how and where wires run, hoses connect to where and come out of what, what does a certain port hatch lead to etc.  Just investigating all systems and places helps you understand the boat and boating in general.  Trim tabs, you push the starboard switch and the portside tab moves and vice versa.  Very counterintuitive but it's for one of those stupid, boating dynamics that don't make much sense to the normal world we're used to operating in where anything on the right belongs to the right and anything on the left belongs on the left.  Not in the boating world lol.  All those things will come together quickly.

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On 9/28/2018 at 4:26 PM, BusterDouglas said:

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 Boat will be kept out of water on trailer and in fresh water only.

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It has no bottom paint and this concerns me.

 

Are you concerned about the lack of bottom paint because of where the boat had been used or about your use of the boat going forward?  A boat used in fresh water and trailered shouldn't need bottom paint.

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2 hours ago, OCMD2 said:

Are you concerned about the lack of bottom paint because of where the boat had been used or about your use of the boat going forward?  A boat used in fresh water and trailered shouldn't need bottom paint.

Hi OCMD2,

The concern is if I decide to get a slip, it will have to be painted, so do I just get the blisters repaired and the bottom painted regardless.

I also got a reply from the marine surveyor:

"This was sighted during my inspection. Percussion sounding did not indicate any structural concern.  This is common on inside and outside corners, and is caused by access material , mainly fairing and gelcoat, in layup,  that has dried and shrunk over time. .  "

Does that make sense to anyone who also has had this cracking in the corners of the engine mount ?

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