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Dozer

Storm damage - Can I get some help?

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2006 Cap 290 sig, twin mercruiser 5.0 MPI

Just finished working on port engine heads/valves. Took it out for a test ride, worked fine.

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2 hours ago, Mi3sons said:

Ain't boatin fun!!!

Ya, when it's not tugging at your wallet all the time.... :) 

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Hard to say without listeming. I’m thinking the engine coupler or clutch (drive). You can get a visual on the coupler at the bell housing. Check to see if the splines are spun or damaged, and for metal shavings. Also, pull the dipstick on the drive and check level and condition. If you can, pull some out the bottom and check condition. Debris falls and settles lower typically, and sometimes doesn’t show on the dipstick.

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 We had just made a 10 mile test run -- no issues prior to this. Also lower unit oil was changed at the beginning of the season, so about 30hrs on it.
 

Thanks

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Sorry, forgot B-III’s have a reservoir. I wish Volvo’s did, but that’s a different matter. There are only 6 possibilities. Coupler, clutch, gears/bearings, driveshafts, cables, shift mechanism. Just reread your post. If forward/reverse won’t engage, start with the shift assembly.

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Don't try to shift B3 drives without the engine running as you will likely damage the shift forks.

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7 hours ago, Dennis A said:

Don't try to shift B3 drives without the engine running as you will likely damage the shift forks.

This is a biggy, Bravo's need to have the engines running when one puts them in gear, Alpha's don't. 

 

 

.

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1 hour ago, Toddler said:

This is a biggy, Bravo's need to have the engines running when one puts them in gear, Alpha's don't. 

 

 

.

Yep! I found that out the hard way!

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Dozer,

We just got our 2835 LE back from a 2.25 MONTH shop stay after experiencing nearly the exact same issue.  Cruising out of our cove after a 30 min run at 3K on the twin 250 Mags with B II drives.  Shifted to neutral with engines on.  Chatted with a neighbor and went to put the drives in forward and the starboard outdrive would not engage.  Motor ran but made a "clicking" noise for about 7 seconds before I shut her down.  

We had already scheduled a haul out for routine maintenance for 2 weeks later so we just let her sit in the slip and got her to the shop.  It was the torque coupler that failed.   The B III props did the same thing yours are doing.  Unfortunately the outdrive and engine both have to be pulled for the coupler.  I got some great advice on this forum and asked for the "heavy duty" replacement part instead of the standard one.  The 383s really are morel like a big block so we had a "heavy duty big block" torque coupler installed. 

We also ended up doing a lot of "while the motor is out" stuff as well.  Ours is a 1999 so we bit the bullet big time and did oil lines, full engine and drive services, anodes, and had the transom gaskets and internal B III drive seals done.  Our boat has captain's call exhaust so the transom work was extra pricey. 

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5 hours ago, Wolfsong said:

Dozer,

We just got our 2835 LE back from a 2.25 MONTH shop stay after experiencing nearly the exact same issue.  Cruising out of our cove after a 30 min run at 3K on the twin 250 Mags with B II drives.  Shifted to neutral with engines on.  Chatted with a neighbor and went to put the drives in forward and the starboard outdrive would not engage.  Motor ran but made a "clicking" noise for about 7 seconds before I shut her down.  

We had already scheduled a haul out for routine maintenance for 2 weeks later so we just let her sit in the slip and got her to the shop.  It was the torque coupler that failed.   The B III props did the same thing yours are doing.  Unfortunately the outdrive and engine both have to be pulled for the coupler.  I got some great advice on this forum and asked for the "heavy duty" replacement part instead of the standard one.  The 383s really are morel like a big block so we had a "heavy duty big block" torque coupler installed. 

We also ended up doing a lot of "while the motor is out" stuff as well.  Ours is a 1999 so we bit the bullet big time and did oil lines, full engine and drive services, anodes, and had the transom gaskets and internal B III drive seals done.  Our boat has captain's call exhaust so the transom work was extra pricey. 

Dozer is from Panama City so right now he is in recovery mode. At least they lived to tell the story.  W

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On ‎10‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 5:34 PM, Wingnut said:

Dozer is from Panama City so right now he is in recovery mode. At least they lived to tell the story.  W

It's been a long 12 days of cleaning up. I'm exhausted, and anxiously awaiting for the power to come back. Living on generator power is OK for a few days, but it's getting old.

Things are slowly returning, at least we can get gas now, grocery stores are mostly stocked and we can now use credit cards at most places.

Now I have to get the boat repaired. The radar arch broke off on the starboard side, the plate broke off the arch, and it bounced during the storm and caused damage to the firberglass on both sides. Looks like the gauges are not working properly, when we got the west winds, it must have put too much pressure on them and water got into them. Bimini tops are done and some of the hardware for the Bimini's took a beating, along with a hole in one of the seat backs. Took me tow days to clean all the leaves and stays, but I keep finding leaves and twigs stuck in places I would never think of looking.

Anyone have any idea what a Radar arch for a 2006 290Sig costs. I have the adjuster coming out Friday to take a look. I never filed a major storm claim, so I have no idea what to expect...if anyone has, I could use some advice to make sure I get my baby back to normal and not get taken to the cleaners.

Thank you

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Dozer, glad your safe and moving toward full recovery. Try Great Lakes Skipper. They usually have a variety of them, and other hard to find out of production parts/accessories. Whether they do or don’t for your boat is unknown. Another good source is Cecil Marine. They are a Chaparral dealer with a great webstore. In addition, they are very helpful and responsive by phone and email. If I had to bet, I’d say it’ll be hard to find and probably in the thousands. The adjuster may know of salvage sources as well, so don’t rule him/her just out. Best wishes. 

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Welcome back. Your experience reminds all of us who is really in charge and almost anything on a boat can be fixed. Individuals should be so lucky. Another option is to remove the arch all together and have the mounts removed and the holes filled. You will likely find an after-market arch that will work, but it won't mount exactly the same. Sounds like your insurance company is on it and I'm surprised they made time for you so soon based on all the damage claims they must be processing. Perhaps the hand you a check, and you forget about replacing the arch and use the money to repair the port drive and engine. Good luck and when some level of normalcy returns, let us help in getting your starboard drive shifting. Sounds like the port engine repair was a huge success.   One thing we have all learned is that you will keep after it, ask all the right questions, and will do it once and do it right.  W

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