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Windless anchor for a 276 ssx

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O K

I would consider moving the windlass  to the bottom of the upper deck.  Also consider buying line  only  made of braided line. I did a search of the limpest line braids. They do exist.   I called many retailers & manufacturers.  My mind is fragmented. I can not recall the number of braids  type / class of the softest line. I was doing 1/2" " diameter X 300'. I asked for a sample .  It made the twisted 1/2"  line look & lay randomly like steel cable.

The stretch of Nylon & 1 other plastic was fantastic. Both could store wet with no problems..... There is no shock to the cleat or drive. Nylon STRETCHES a lot.

If you move the winch to the underside ?  Remember that you can use a CAGED ROLLER for the line to clear the cutout hole in that vertical plate.  You can mount the windlass so that it is almost touching the underside of the deck. That will allow a deck hole to have access to manual operation. A  plate of any material cover the opening.

My 186 SSI has a small locker. It easily holds chain & 300' of 1/2" very limp braided nylon.

Edit....................I was referring to mounting the windlass to a plate holding it to JUST BELOW the bottom of the main deck.  You would need a opening to flip a MANUAL OPERATING LEVER.

Another edit ??   :)     There are white & grey flush threaded deck plates available. A floor drain is one type Racing boats still have them in the SPONSONS.  That would allow a smooth flush deck all the time.  A under deck chain prevents loss.

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16 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Also consider buying line  only  made of braided line. I did a search of the limpest line braids.

I already have everything, Clops.  Paid a ton of $ for all this stuff I have to at least use it and see how it works.   That line in the pic with my cat is really limp and made out of cloth or something.  I'm betting it doesn't tangle very easily.  We'll see.

16 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Edit....................I was referring to mounting the windlass to a plate holding it to JUST BELOW the bottom of the main deck.  You would need a opening to flip a MANUAL OPERATING LEVER.

The problem I've realized with placing the windlass higher than the direct plain of the anchor leg is that it pulls the anchor up forcing the pointed tip closer to the hull when it's fully retracted.  So I can only go up so far but that is possible.  I know what you're saying, to push it as high as possible to make more storage room for the line and yes, I'll be looking at that consideration before I fix the platform in permanently.   

16 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Another edit ??   :)     There are white & grey flush threaded deck plates available. A floor drain is one type Racing boats still have them in the SPONSONS.  That would allow a smooth flush deck all the time.  A under deck chain prevents loss.

Are you talking about putting the windlass on the deck?  How would that work, though?  The in and out needs to go back down to go out the bow roller.

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31 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

I thought you had made your mind up that there must be nothing on the deck ?

That's right, I did.  But I thought you were saying to put the windlass on the deck to make more room in the locker and then bring the line through the deck into the locker?  Sounds like I misunderstood you.  No worries, my bad.  

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I am referring to mounting on a Aluminum plate located UNDER the deck.

The top of the windlass would be just UNDER the bottom of the deck. A hole above the windlass unit allows full manual use with cranking lever if needed.

The hole in the deck is sealed with a heavy duty threaded plate flush with the deck.

The anchor  line can be angled with a piece of bent S S pipe / tubing. That pipe is sometimes called a hawse pipe in larger ships.

Do a web search of...........  Anchor Chain Hawse Pipe ...............  It shows many ways . Simply modified adjustable turnbuckle to lock the anchor snugly in place. 

I  forgot to remember the locker shape & size............ So  ..........A simple flat plate of Aluminum with a FULL length hinge at the stern edge would allow it to be placed right over the hole for easy operation in manual mode when needed. Also allows the  chain lock to be accessed easily. Could also put the hand crank and the splined drive shaft  in a spring bracket Also.

By adding a simple bracket with a hole thru it. That would allow cranking up 300' much easier. You could get a 18 " to 24" piece of drive shaft to get the handle way above the hatch . WITH THE HATCH CLOSED DURING CRANKING............. That will make cranking easier than a deck mounted with a short shaft.

Meds are in me.

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13 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Meds are in me.

:haha-7383:

I see what you mean, now.  You're talking about one of these, haws pipes.  

S3806-0000.jpg

I get it now.  Put the windlass directly bellow the cap and access the star-shaped turn key on top through one of these haws pipe and that way I have as much room as possible in the bulkhead.

Here's what I figured with that anchor locker,  The height of that gelcoated plywood bulkhead it as high as you would want the line to pile up, otherwise the line starts to drop behind the bulkhead into that no-access zone under the bow seats.  So since the motor mounts to the gipsy sideways (because that was the model I got because of room considerations) and as long as that motor doesn't drop much lower than the top of the bulkhead, that's the maximum space I have for any amount of line.  So I'll mount it and test it knowing and going by all that and see what happens before moving to plan B.   

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15 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Go for it Hatem.  :)

Going for it, Clopadopadopadus! :)

I've decided not to flare out the bow opening to accommodate the roller plate imperfection.  I've come this far and want it to sit as perfectly as possible.  It's just going to bug me all the time and the pics are a bit decieving.  So I'm having it reworked.  The one place close to my house said he couldn't get to it until January -- which I didn't mind -- but then he said @ $85/hour (which I also didn't mind, it's a very skilled trade quite worthy of that rate) but then he said the work would cost as much as the roller itself, $800?!  9 hours?  I don't think a qualified ss welder needs 9 hours to do that, including polishing time.  What do you think?

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9 hours seems a bit low, but it will vary depending on whether the boat is on-site, you make a template, don't make a template. $85 per hour isn't unrealistic.

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My only great metal shop closed up. So I can not pass judgement anymore on strangers.  I would use his place as a sounding board on any metal work.

I just had a lot of freezing water damage replaced on my house exposed foundation walls.  He gouged out the loose stuff & filled in the missing chunks on all block webs. Then recoated the surfaces. He then returned the dirt & stone chips to be almost perfect.  I thought it would be a day.  Surprise it was 2 full days.   Being out of work / retired causes me not to judge distant areas.    Some places  NEVER HAD a great / good fabricating / repair ability.

I have 2 mechanics I can trust . 1 is a neat place. Other is a metal scrap yard.  Both are excellent.

Short of asking locals about recent work done by a unknown shop & a SPECIFIC person in that shop ?  Trades are disappearing fast in N J and N Y.

I would trust you on my Chap glass work. Before many locals.    Best of luck on finding good people.

He will need the boat at the shop to do a excellent job.  You can do a  perfect looking job with the foam closed cell gasket material.

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