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Ed p

Windless anchor for a 276 ssx

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So I made my mockup platform for the windlass and motor to test the fit and figure out how to fasten it to the anchor locker bulkhead.  I made an L platform out of 1x10 PVC material and drilled the holes for the bolts and the chain and rode to drop through.  I added that little triangle corner support on the left side only since I need the room on the right side for the motor.

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When I dry-fit it to the bulkhead, I realized this back to the opening that is part of the entire top cap of the boat is really obstructing access to the bulkhead and the windlass platform. Thought about it for a while to see if there were any hidden reasons not to cut it out.  Didn't find any reason.

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So I taped it up with blue tape and marked out a reasonable sized cut.

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Used a forstner bit instead of a hole-saw because I know this type of surface chips really easy.  Didn't want to chance it.

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Scored the lines with a rotary tool and a small 1/4" diamond disc like I did with the bow roller hole then just used my grinder with a brand new diamond blade and cut the rest of the straight lines.  The diamond blade on a grinder works perfect and cuts a super smooth line.  You just have to hold on to it really well because it has some torque and power and can run off on you.  And you always want to cut into the rotation of the blade and not with it.  Now I have great access to the platform and the windlass.

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I wish that bulkhead came up higher, though.  You can see the edge of the plywood Chaparral used and didn't finish off the top edge and not only that, look at how the back of the bow seat which is part of the cap is pushing up against the bulkhead plywood and putting enough pressure on it to bend it.  Not a great factory job, but at least they pushed the bulkhead as far back as possible -- including wedging it up -- instead of pulling it forward more and making the locker space smaller.  So pluses and minuses in this case.

At least now I can see where and at what height exactly to mount that windlass and figure out how to attach it to that bulkhead, plus accessing it.  It will need to be at the exact height of the anchor leg coming in from the roller.

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@Denny, looks like about 5-1/2" from the end of the anchor leg to the front edge of the windlass.  Might have to raise it, though, to make more room in the locker for the rode and chain.  Not much space, there.

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2 hours ago, Curt said:

Looks great.

I won't be able to use the wrench, though.  I need an unobstructed area of about 10" of clearance 360* around the top if the motor burns out to turn the windlass with the wrench.  So that thing will be useless, oh well.  One of the disadvantages of an after-the-fact, undermount installation like this.  I'll have 180* and the pain of pulling it out and relocking it in every half turn but that's ridiculous! :haha-7383:  It is releasable, but we'll just have to pull the line back in by hand if the motor ever conks out while the anchor is deployed. 

I used the PVC because that stuff lasts forever plus I wanted to avoid glassing and gelcoating, but I think I will glass it into the back of that bow seat and bulkhead for extra strength on top of bolting it in.  That anchor is pretty heavy and it also has to withstand pulling an anchor that is stuck without ripping out that platform.  I'll dab a bunch of epoxy to the back of that plate, squeeze it and bolt it to the back nice and tight.  2 bolts on the top to and 2 on the bottom through the bulkhead and then tape and glass, especially that top corner.  Notice that hole through the back seat?  Have no idea what that is LOL!  Friggin Chaparral and their extra holes they like to drill everywhere!  :D 

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Yeah, I see that hole. Who knows why it’s there or what they were thinking. At any rate, a suggestion. Use a backing plate on the seat side or real large fender washers. Bolting through the fiberglass, but not having some kind of backing should be avoided. Keep up the great work. It looks great.

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8 minutes ago, Curt said:

Yeah, I see that hole. Who knows why it’s there or what they were thinking. At any rate, a suggestion. Use a backing plate on the seat side or real larger fender washers. Bolting through the fiberglass, but not having some kind of backing should be avoided. Keep up the great work. It looks great.

Good idea on the backing plate.  I hadn't gotten that far in thinking it out yet but that's a great suggestion considering that round, fiberglass back of the seating it the same thickness (essentially the same exact material) as the plate I just cut out.  The only problem is that the backseat cushion sits tightly onto that surface.  The backing of the seat cushion is this 1/4" thick, melamine material or something of the sort.  I'll take a pic of it and post it.  Bottom line, whatever bolting system I use, it can't stick out much or it'll interfere with the seat laying flush on that back.  It's interesting, that material has 4, 1" holes drilled in the top of it where they go into 4 clips on the top, sit into them and then get screwed in at the bottom with underhanging clips.  I might have to use bolts with very narrow pan heads and either a backing plate like you suggested or large washers and tighten the nuts on the locker side.  That way they're as flush as possible against cushion backing.  Or maybe even drill some holes into the backing to line up with the bolt heads.

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5 minutes ago, Curt said:

I’d go with relief holes in the seat backing.

I think so too.  Before committing entirely to that L platform, I'm going to make a mockup of a full board that runs from the bow under the roller to the bulkhead like that guy did in the video and see if it's worth losing the visual and unimpeded access to the bottom of that anchor locker and chain and rode in exchange for a much stronger platform and no need to bolt anything through the backseat...plus, maybe move the windlass a little more forward towards the anchor leg as much as possible and see if I have the room to turn the wrench.  If I can get both those features while sacrificing a bit of access to the line, I might just go with that straight platform.  I can even cut its shape so that it's narrow as it goes forward of the windlass.  Might be a better, all around way to go.  

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Great approach. If you get “backed” into mounting it as kicked back and forth, a ratchet can be used with the star-bit. Not perfect, but it’s really not meant to haul the anchor all the way up but instead to clear a jamb.

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11 minutes ago, Curt said:

Great approach. If you get “backed” into mounting it as kicked back and forth, a ratchet can be used with the star-bit. Not perfect, but it’s really not meant to haul the anchor all the way up but instead to clear a jamb.

A ratchet with a star bit is a great idea, Curt.  Ultimately I do prefer the L platform which is why I started out with it and will probably end up that way, now that you've given me this great idea I didn't think of!  Thank you!  :clapsmiley:

I thought that was the reason for the wrench, to reel the line in case of a bad motor on top of clearing a jamb?

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

A ratchet with a star bit is a great idea, Curt.  Ultimately I do prefer the L platform which is why I started out with it and will probably end up that way, now that you've given me this great idea I didn't think of!  Thank you!  :clapsmiley:

I thought that was the reason for the wrench, to reel the line in case of a bad motor on top of clearing a jamb?

No, it locks and unlocks the Gypsy. Unlocked the anchor will free fall. You are looking at about 1/4 turn or so to do both.  Denny.

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10 hours ago, Denny said:

No, it locks and unlocks the Gypsy. Unlocked the anchor will free fall. You are looking at about 1/4 turn or so to do both.  Denny.

 

10 hours ago, Curt said:

+1 Denny. That as well.

Wait a minute, fellas, this is not what this guy is saying and what I always thought the wrench was for, to manually rotate the gipsy to pull the line back incase there's a motor failure.   Watch from minute 1:00 to 1:15.

 

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3 minutes ago, Hatem said:

 

Wait a minute, fellas, this is not what this guy is saying and what I always thought the wrench is for, to manually rotate the gipsy to pull the line back incase there's a motor failure.   Watch from minute 1:00 to 1:15.

 

Different design, take your wrench and see how far you can turn your Gypsy clock wise

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1 minute ago, Denny said:

Different design, take your wrench and see how far you can turn your Gypsy clock wise

I noticed that.  It basically locks the top cap tighter but I figured there was something I was missing and that there was another step somewhere to loosen that cap and then turn it with the wrench, but it seems you're right.  So this particular windlass doesn't have that feature then, which means I don't have to worry about placing it further back.  That's good.  Weird, though, the wrench is rather large which gave me the impression it was just for that.  1/4 turn is nothing, lol.  You can do that with just your pinky facryin'outloud you don't need this monstah wrench! 

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4 minutes ago, Curt said:

Agree. Plus, it’s faster if the motor fails to do it to “ole fashioned” way... hand over hand. 

Been there, done that, no fun, that is why I have a windlass

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2 minutes ago, Hatem said:

I noticed that.  It basically locks the top cap tighter but I figured there was something I was missing and that there was another step somewhere to loosen that cap and then turn it with the wrench, but it seems you're right.  So this particular windlass doesn't have that feature then, which means I don't have to worry about placing it further back.  That's good.  Weird, though, the wrench is rather large which gave me the impression it was just for that.  1/4 turn is nothing, lol.  You can do that with just your pinky facryin'outloud you don't need this monstah wrench! 

You need to lock it down tight, or it will work loose and not grab the line.

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1 minute ago, Curt said:

Same here. But, if the thing fails, I’m hand over hand instead of the wrench. Faster.

Hatem and I don't have a choice, it is hand over hand or cut the line.

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On ‎11‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 6:55 PM, Denny said:

My swivel is 3" the curved piece is the turner to make the anchor set seat properly.

Sorry for the water spots, haven't started the detailing yet.  Denny.

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Do you have a safety lanyard below in the locker or just don't use one?

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I use one, but my setup doesn’t have the swivel and has about 10 inches of chain available to clamp onto. I drilled the clevis pin to add safety wire to keep it from backing out. I also added a coated multi-strand cable between the anchor and chain so if the attachment point breaks the anchor still comes up.

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Hatem

 Looks like you are almost finished.

Question   How will you compensate for loss of anchor lines storage space with the ...L... bracket so low in the compartment ?  The line / chain pile up will be occurring much sooner. Or do you anchor shallow enough ?  Can you just  hinge / latch the seat up ?  And hand control the line piling up in the locker ?

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25 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Hatem

 Looks like you are almost finished.

Question   How will you compensate for loss of anchor lines storage space with the ...L... bracket so low in the compartment ?  The line / chain pile up will be occurring much sooner. Or do you anchor shallow enough ?  Can you just  hinge / latch the seat up ?  And hand control the line piling up in the locker ?

That is something I have been and am quite worried about, Clopadopadus.  It's been on my mind ever since I made the decision to do this project which is the main reason I've been thinking a lot about switching to a drum.  The anchor locker is pretty small but was fine to just hand dump line in there.  When I lost the original fluke anchor that came with the boat, I bought a new one with 300ft of line (including chain) and had enough room to stuff it in there.  But now I certainly have concerns for enough space for the windlass to drop the 150' of chain and line without running out of room and especially without getting all tangled up.  We usually don't anchor in deep water, 35' max, really.  Tried anchoring in 50' of water once way offshore and got it set fine, but I rarely need to do that.  Mostly shallow anchoring is what we do.  Fireworks, beach etc.  But yeah, it's a concern, Clops.  

I guess we'll just have to see what happens and hope it works fine.  If not, I'll have to switch to the drum so it gets spooled.  Another reason why I'm reluctant to do any glassing of this platform I built.  If it doesn't work and I need to pull it out for a drum, it's going to suck asss beyond belief! lol.

The line Anchorlift sent me is a really cool, almost cloth-like and very flexible, so hopefully it won't get tangled up.

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This was the 300' for the fluke and it was nylon and a royal pain in the assssss!  Tangled up all the time and was just really horrible stuff.  Look at this mess.  It took me 45 minutes to untangle this disaster and I had to run it out into the street past the neighbor's house and keep twisting it until it straightened all out.

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

Do you have a safety lanyard below in the locker or just don't use one?

I don't use one

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1 hour ago, Curt said:

I use one, but my setup doesn’t have the swivel and has about 10 inches of chain available to clamp onto. I drilled the clevis pin to add safety wire to keep it from backing out. I also added a coated multi-strand cable between the anchor and chain so if the attachment point breaks the anchor still comes up.

Mmm...I like the idea of adding a wire between the anchor and chain.  I thought about that possibility of the anchor breaking loose from the chain and losing it.  This anchor is quite the piece of solid stainless steel and I'd hate to ever lose it simply because that connection breaks off, which is basically at the swivel.  And there are several areas in the swivel where it can break, 3 to be precise.  The two end pins and the pin in the center where it swivels.  I don't have much confidence in that thing TBH.

So now I need a safety chain for the anchor itself at the swivel as well as a safety lanyard to prevent the anchor from ever dropping by accident due to any type of failure in the gipsy or motor.  lol, for every solution there seems to present another problem.  Need a lot of redundancy to keep everything safe and working well with this system.

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