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watson524

Help with new trailer

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Hi all,

Our old boat was on a single axle trailer, no brakes and so this new trailer with brakes is new to me. First time trailering the boat (home from the dealer) and I've got some questions. It's a load rite Elite disc surge brakes. Had to get the adapter from flat 5 to 7 blade and the brakes appear to be ok there (I can back up a hill and the reverse wire is triggering the solenoid to release the brakes just fine). I tried it tho without the lights hooked up in the driveway but with the pin shoved in the side hole as the manual mentioned and it was like the brakes were still on. Obviously this method does work because the trailer had the pin in that hole so they could move it around the yard ok. But it didn't seem to work for me. Is there some other trick? 

Also - what is this lever on the top of the actuator? It's mentioned no where in the book, I can't find it on load rite's site..... I would assume it's supposed to hook to the truck so if there's a brake away, it turns on the brakes but then shouldn't it move? I can't get the thing to budge forward or back.

And last question - when you're underway, do you take that pin that should be able to stop the coupler from going back and making the brakes come on, into the hole in the ball latch? Our old boat had a pin that went through there but then it was a flip around type where there was a "D" latch that came over it. This thing just has a tiny detent ball that requires no effort to push in and out and seems shady to me. I'm thinking of replacing it with something that requires more force to engage and more importantly, dislodge.

Thanks in advance!

1586396243_Trailer1.jpg.87394bb27fbb1a7cae8de76029afc423.jpg1721669154_Trailer3.jpg.e7c7cc8cace1c8eb88c917084bed8355.jpg1803964076_Trailer2.jpg.6ceadfcfad5e0d48b97f06b4f8a31b54.jpg

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Call the companies of the different  parts.  Or check with the dealer Service Manager.

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2 minutes ago, MonkeySeaII said:

i have the same trailer.  the pin goes in the ball latch to prevent it from popping open

That's what we figured tho they had it in the side of the actuator as a lockout even tho it didn't work for us. Does yours stay securely in the ball latch? Ours comes in and out easily. But now I've got to see if we can get the e-brake lever back in place using Curts link. Seems like it's letting them roll but not in the right place. 

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Suggest:

-Check to confirm your ball is the correct size. If too small, the trailer will pop-off because the lock will be loose. If the actuator represented by the manual is what’s on your trailer, it’s rated much higher and likely requires a ball > 2 inch diameter.

-The “C” clasp with spring latch goes through the ball lock and prevents it from indvertently opening (you refer to this as the “D”  latch). The fit thru the hole is normally somewhat firm, but can be a bit sloppy as well (it depends on the diameter of the pin and hole). The important thing is whether the ball is locked, and how firm this lever is. This is the forward most lever.

-The lever on top of the actuator is the e-brake (it has the black base). Its cable needs to be free, untangled and attached to one of the eyelets on either side of the receiver.

-The pin is to prevent the surge brakes from activating when in reverse if the electrical is not hooked up.

-The blue wire triggers the surge-off solenoid when power’s applied to the truck’s backing lights (gear selector in reverse).

I’m sure your Dealer will help aclimate you to the new trailer. They have a vested interest in your safety. If uncomfortable or uncertain, call/visit them.

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56 minutes ago, Curt said:

Suggest:

-Check to confirm your ball is the correct size. If too small, the trailer will pop off because the lock will be loose.

-The “C” clasp with spring latch goes through the ball lock and prevents it from opening. The fit is normally somewhat firm, but can be a bit sloppy as well (it depends on the diameter of the pin and hole). The important thing is whether the ball is locked, and how firm that lever is. 

-The lever on top of the actuator is the e-brake. It’s cable needs to be free, untangled and attached to one of the eye’s on either side of the hitch.

-The pin is to prevent the surge brakes from activating when in reverse if the electrical is not hooked up. 

-The blue wire triggers the surge-off solenoid when power’s applied to the truck’s backing lights (gear selector in reverse).

I’m sure your Dealer will help aclimate you to the new trailer. They have a vested interest in your safety. If uncomfortable or uncertain, call/visit them.

We're good on the ball size. We have so many different size tow things that we have one with the 3 balls and a hook on it and the boat trailer is the 2 5/16" Looks like from the link you sent, I just need to get that e-brake level back in place using their instructions. Tho based on what we tested yesterday, it must be in a mid state that isn't engaging the brakes.

Not sure what you mean by C clasp. The ball lock safety pin on this trailer is just a pin with a small ball on the side that is way too sloppy for my liking so we'll be looking for a different option, likely the same pin but without the ball detent and something that that has a hole that a cotter pin of sorts can go through.

I will say, it's amazing how much smoother this dual axle trailer tows even with weight over twice as much as we had with the old boat. Albeit, it's also a bigger truck and all but the dual axle makes such a huge difference I'd even recommend it to my friends with smaller boats and single axle trailers.

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That ball hitch locking pin often has 2 spring open & & close bent wires on 1 end. To stay firmly in place

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The “C” clasp is depicted in the below pic. Available at any hardware store for about a buck. This one is placed thru a hole in the lever that locks it. Yours would go thru the hole where the pin is. 

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4 hours ago, Curt said:

 

No picture but I can look around for something and I think I know what you mean. Pin with a C shaped "wire" thing that rotates and goes down over the end of the pin. We have one of those on our utility trailer. The thing that came on it is just not going to cut it in my opinion. It's this thing:

http://www.loadrite.com/trailer-parts/braking-components/actuator-safety-pin-wcable-6-6k-8-5k-2/

And just doesn't stay firmly in place and kind of dumb that that's what they're using.

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Yep that's what  I was thinking. And that's what my small utility trailer has so we'll go get something like that. The hole ours goes through is down lower (not in the lever itself like yours and like what I'm used to) so we'll just have to make sure we have clearance or we can always flip it underneath. We also just got a ball lock and a keyed lock pin that goes through where the C clasp would otherwise go. We don't normally have the boat or trailer sitting around but until it goes into storage and all, I'm not taking any chances. The one we had for the old trailer is too small for this one..

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22 hours ago, watson524 said:

 

Not sure what you mean by C clasp. The ball lock safety pin on this trailer is just a pin with a small ball on the side that is way too sloppy for my liking so we'll be looking for a different option, likely the same pin but without the ball detent and something that that has a hole that a cotter pin of sorts can go through.

1803964076_Trailer2.jpg.6ceadfcfad5e0d48

That ball socket does look rather small, I see what your concern is for sure.  And if it's for a 2-5/16" ball, it seems (just by looking at that pic) that socket must barely sit over half the ball.  But maybe once that socket is fully seated onto the ball and you lower that lock latch, it must trap the ball well enough and then it's secured with the pin. 

It would be great to see a pic from the side with the ball all the way in the socket to see how much of the ball is actually trapped in there.  Mine is similar but once I drop the socket over the ball, the entire ball is inset.  Then close that cover on top which is the same as your locking latch and it traps the ball from underneath it and stick the pin in to lock the cover in place.  Same principle as yours just different looking components. 

7BbGqku.jpg

On ‎10‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 10:11 PM, watson524 said:

And last question - when you're underway, do you take that pin that should be able to stop the coupler from going back and making the brakes come on, into the hole in the ball latch?

Yes, definitely.  That's what it's for and you don't need it in the rear slot to stop the surge breaks from deploying when you back up since you're connected electrically to your truck and in that case, the electrical connection automatically disengages the surge brake feature once you put it in reverse. 

On ‎10‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 10:11 PM, watson524 said:

It's a load rite Elite disc surge brakes. Had to get the adapter from flat 5 to 7 blade and the brakes appear to be ok there (I can back up a hill and the reverse wire is triggering the solenoid to release the brakes just fine). I tried it tho without the lights hooked up in the driveway but with the pin shoved in the side hole as the manual mentioned and it was like the brakes were still on. Obviously this method does work because the trailer had the pin in that hole so they could move it around the yard ok. But it didn't seem to work for me. Is there some other trick? 

 I wouldn't worry about that pin for the surge brakes, just keep it in the ball latch slot and always back up while connected with your electrical connection.  If you think about it, the only time you need that rear pin feature is if you're trying to back up the trailer using a vehicle that you can't connect electrically to.  Otherwise, you're always connected to your truck and it automatically disengages the surge brake when you're in reverse just like Curt mentioned.

On ‎10‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 10:11 PM, watson524 said:

Also - what is this lever on the top of the actuator? It's mentioned no where in the book, I can't find it on load rite's site..... I would assume it's supposed to hook to the truck so if there's a brake away, it turns on the brakes but then shouldn't it move? I can't get the thing to budge forward or back.

1586396243_Trailer1.jpg.87394bb27fbb1a7c

Did they deliver the trailer to you with that brake lever in the forward position like that?  Too bad you didn't know about it because I would've made them reset it to the rearward position like it's supposed to be and that shouldn't have been driven with it like that at all.  If I'm not mistaken, that means the brakes are already engaged which might explain why you had a bit of a tough time -- maybe not so much moving forward -- but backing it up.  Did you pick it up like that from the dealer? 

70Dfsg6.jpg

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23 minutes ago, Hatem said:

That ball socket does look rather small, I see what your concern is for sure.  And if it's for a 2-5/16" ball, it seems (just by looking at that pic) that socket must barely sit over half the ball.  But maybe once that socket is fully seated onto the ball and you lower that lock latch, it must trap the ball well enough and then it's secured with the pin. 

It would be great to see a pic from the side with the ball all the way in the socket to see how much of the ball is actually trapped in there.  

=======================

Did they deliver the trailer to you with that brake lever in the forward position like that?  Too bad you didn't know about it because I would've made them reset it to the forward position like it's suppose to be and that shouldn't have been driven with it like that at all.  If I'm not mistaken, that means the brakes are already engaged which might explain why you had a bit of a tough time -- maybe not so much moving forward -- but backing it up.  Did you pick it up like that from the dealer? 

I'll take a picture when I have the truck down here to move it from one house up the road to the other where it lives for the winter. Definitely 2 5/16", it's stamped on the side, but I don't recall it looking like the ball was too big or sticking out or anything.

As for the e-brake lever, no, that was my own stupidity. So since it's the first time towing with the new truck, I thought it had a 5 pin and 7 blade on it and didn't bring an adapter. Turns out we have a 4 pin and 7 blade so on the way home, I had a "tail" escort since I had no lights on the truck. Pulled just past the driveway at the house (where I stopped is below grade from the house) and that's when I realized I couldn't go in reverse because the brakes were on. So then we started looking and that's when we tried shoving the pin in at the coupler like they had in the yard and it didn't work. So then dumba$$ here thought maybe that was a brake release so I yanked it tho it's not all the way forward in the slot so I don't think the brakes are actually engaged like if it had yanked from a vehicle/safety chain disconnect. So then I went down the road, turned around and came back up and just drove into the driveway and the brakes weren't dragging or anything. The driveway has a very slight downgrade so when I tested backing up there, it rolled backwards fine (as expected because the couple was opened up given the slight downgrade). So now I just have to reset the thing myself.

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3 hours ago, watson524 said:

I'll take a picture when I have the truck down here to move it from one house up the road to the other where it lives for the winter. Definitely 2 5/16", it's stamped on the side, but I don't recall it looking like the ball was too big or sticking out or anything.

I thought you meant that ball socket wasn't deep enough for the 2-5/16" ball to sit all the way in.  It does look a bit shallow (compared to the one in Curt's picture) but maybe it's an optical illusion.  So you're saying that pin doesn't necessarily pin that ball lock lever itself but goes under the ball?  I think once you push the locking lever down, it extends a mechanism to trap the ball and then that pin goes into that mechanism to secure it.

3 hours ago, watson524 said:

Pulled just past the driveway at the house (where I stopped is below grade from the house) and that's when I realized I couldn't go in reverse because the brakes were on. So then we started looking and that's when we tried shoving the pin in at the coupler like they had in the yard and it didn't work. So then dumba$$ here thought maybe that was a brake release so I yanked it tho it's not all the way forward in the slot so I don't think the brakes are actually engaged like if it had yanked from a vehicle/safety chain disconnect

Lol.  If you pulled forward a little away from that grade incline, the surge would've pulled forward and disengaged the break and then I bet you probably would've been able to insert the pin.  

But then they only supplied one pin though?  Not sure I would want to pull the ball socket pin to use for the surge disconnect.  A secondary pin like you posted would be the best thing or just keep it connected to the truck all the time, and you should be able to back up anytime. 

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6 minutes ago, Hatem said:

I thought you meant that ball socket wasn't deep enough for the 2-5/16" ball to sit all the way in.  It does look a bit shallow (compared to the one in Curt's picture) but maybe it's an optical illusion.  So you're saying that pin doesn't necessarily pin that ball lock lever itself but goes under the ball?  I think once you push the locking lever down, it extends a mechanism to trap the ball and then that pin goes into that mechanism to secure it.

Lol.  If you pulled forward a little away from that grade incline, the surge would've pulled forward and disengaged the break and then I bet you probably would've been able to insert the pin.  

But then they only supplied one pin though?  Not sure I would want to pull the ball socket pin to use for the surge disconnect.  A secondary pin like you posted would be the best thing or just keep it connected to the truck all the time, and you should be able to back up anytime. 

The pin doesn't go into the locking lever like on the old trailer but down below in the hole on the body. It does make it so you can't lift the level, so it works, I just don't trust that the little detent ball on the pin will keep it in because it can be pulled out easily which is why I want something more firm.

Since the whole road is a downhill, we just chocked the trailer wheels to let the truck out a bit to get the pin in the receiver but it didn't change anything so...... like you said, hook up the lights and this shouldn't be an issue.

And yep, only one pin, and it's actually labeled as "latch pin" for the ball.

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There was /are Drop End Pins.  They have a droppable link on the end of the pin. Gravity USUALLY holds the swing lock link down.  Tractor places sell those hitch pins up to about 6" long.

 

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