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Waste Tank Level Indicator and Access Cap removal

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Anyone have any great ideas on how to remove the dam cover?  The thing is not budging one bit.  Tried spraying it with penetrating oil, a strap wrench and rubber mallet - nothing.  Is there a special wrench of some kind that would fit over the teeth and provide a bit more leverage?  Kind of hard to get to also...

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Access cap is nothing but a deck though hull. The make deck keys that can remove the cap.

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On ‎10‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 9:55 AM, Further said:

Anyone have any great ideas on how to remove the dam cover?  The thing is not budging one bit.  Tried spraying it with penetrating oil, a strap wrench and rubber mallet - nothing.  Is there a special wrench of some kind that would fit over the teeth and provide a bit more leverage?  Kind of hard to get to also...

It's that stuck on that you can't even turn it with a strap wrench?  You even used a rubber mallet?!?!  Holy cow, it must be corroded stuck or something but that's even unusual since it's essentially plastic.  The only thing I can think of is that it was over-tightened to the point where it's stuck now. 

Does it have the two little holes on the cap in the middle, about 1 inch apart?  If so, there's a special wrench with 2 teeth that fit in those hole and then turn it, makes loosening the cap much easier but I'm not sure those holes are on the waste tank cap.  They should be on the gas cap.

Maybe you need one of those large channel locks and adjust it to the diameter of the cap and put a towel over the edge so it doesn't scratch it or the gelcoat on the hull.  If that doesn't do it............not sure what will besides drilling it out and then buying a new one.  But you'll have to be careful not to damage the inside threads.

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I think he might be referring to the one on top of the actual aluminum holding tank that indicated the waste level. If I remember right, it's 6-8" in diameter with short "teeth" around the outside, and a few wires connected to it. On my last Signature, we had to replace the holding tank and I didn't even bother putting the indicator in the new one. Our current Sig has the original tank but the indicator doesn't work. I'd be interested to know if anyone has successfully been able to remove it and if so, what the fix is. 

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19 hours ago, ChappyMike said:

I think he might be referring to the one on top of the actual aluminum holding tank that indicated the waste level. If I remember right, it's 6-8" in diameter with short "teeth" around the outside, and a few wires connected to it. On my last Signature, we had to replace the holding tank and I didn't even bother putting the indicator in the new one. Our current Sig has the original tank but the indicator doesn't work. I'd be interested to know if anyone has successfully been able to remove it and if so, what the fix is. 

Yes, that's what I'm referring to.  The 6-8" level indicator cap on the holding tank - won't budge at all.  Will look for a deck key of some sort like iggy suggested or may try a large channel lock if I can find one big enough

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Ohhhh......

On my Sig a 2011 there on with 3/4" rubber caps. But its a vac-u-flush system

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21 hours ago, ChappyMike said:

I think he might be referring to the one on top of the actual aluminum holding tank that indicated the waste level. If I remember right, it's 6-8" in diameter with short "teeth" around the outside, and a few wires connected to it. On my last Signature, we had to replace the holding tank and I didn't even bother putting the indicator in the new one. Our current Sig has the original tank but the indicator doesn't work. I'd be interested to know if anyone has successfully been able to remove it and if so, what the fix is. 

Is this the same tank? 

ir9esfr.jpg

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An adjustable pin spanner wrench will remove it, as will a large channel lock and rag. When the rubber o-ring is compressed, actually over tightened, it bites-in and holds both the top and bottom like a lock. Hard to breakaway without the proper tool. It’s not corroded, so penetrating oil won’t work. A wide flat screwdriver and mallet may break it loose, but damage will likely result. With a spanner and a 6 to 8 inch extension tube over the handle, this is much easier (better leverage). When reinstalling, turn and tighten until the o-ring meets the tank, and the make an additional 1/4 turn.

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14 minutes ago, Further said:

Well that didn't work..... Not enough bite and slips up and out.  Will try the channel lock and rag method next....

If you have one of these inch and a half wide putty knives, tap it lightly with a hammer right under the lip of that ring all the way around and maybe even pry up on it just a little bit to break up any bonding it might have to the surface of the tank, it'll help loosen it up a bit and then use the channel locks.  You shouldn't need a huge one, just enough to catch 3 of those teeth and put some muscle into it.  

s-l1000.jpg

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2 hours ago, Hatem said:

If you have one of these inch and a half wide putty knives, tap it lightly with a hammer right under the lip of that ring all the way around and maybe even pry up on it just a little bit to break up any bonding it might have to the surface of the tank, it'll help loosen it up a bit and then use the channel locks.  You shouldn't need a huge one, just enough to catch 3 of those teeth and put some muscle into it.  

s-l1000.jpg

Will try it.  thanks!

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Looks like a "Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench" might be the tool for the job.

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