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Stuart Adair

Correct battery switch position.

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16 hours ago, BajaDriver said:

I have 4 bats in my Chap LOL 

 That's awesome.  No shortage of power on that boat.  The more, the merrier.  I might have add a 4th battery also since I'm adding stuff to the boat that's going to suck up some extra power like the windlass and especially bow thruster.  The latter will definitely require a dedicated battery and the former will use up more of the existing power package, but I think the 2 current house batteries are more than enough.  What do you have for batteries on the Baja?  

12 hours ago, Phillbo said:

Yes it is... I avoid the northeast because the people can be real jerks. 

Plenty of good folk around here.  As a matter of fact, it's the overwhelming majority of people that are good.  The difference is that the jerks are loud, so can't help but hear their crap.  Kinda like the Fellowship of the Miserable Clownship around here.  Although the Fellowship has been silenced lately, it's awesome.  Someone finally stood up to their abusive and arrogant power-tripping that they've been stunned and shunned into that silence.  :haha-7383: Love it.  :clapsmiley:

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20 hours ago, Iggy said:

Wow!! I think your getting mad because you are seeing my point. 

Not stubborn, you can't say that you have seen the boat in question. Can you? There could be a battery combiner/arc which would change how to operated the battery switch.

Now you're just reaching and grasping at anything.  See, I was right about you being thick-headed.  Must be that Irish blood, ey?  :)

Ok, I'll play along since the forum is boring as @#$%@# ATM.  So let's assume for a minute that Stuart has this "battery combiner/arc" LOL.  How would that change any of the switch positions?  Better yet, why would there ever be a combiner with a switch panel that has a parallel position?  Let's get some detail from you since you've been very complicatingly vague and avoiding the switch positioning with every post of yours because there are only 2 positions to use on that switch panel, not including the OFF and PARALLEL switches LOL!  What you're basically saying is that despite the switch panel already having an "ALL" position (which is the PARALLEL position) and that combines all the batteries, why would there be a combiner? lol.  That is the silliest thing you've said so far.  

So tell us, and don't forget that we know all of this already and there is no disputing any of this information given.  1998 Chaparral Signature 270 with a 5.7 Mercruiser and 750 hours on it.

1) 1 battery wired independently

2) 2 batteries wired together

3) Switch panel labeled Position 1...Position 2...Position ALL...Position OFF.

So I gave you the switch positioning that 1 is starting/engine battery only and 2 is engine battery & both house batteries (but 2 separate banks).  ALL is parallel and OFF is off.   Philbo's boat is simply reversing position 1 with position 2.  So it's either one or the other!  There is only 2 possible switch positions LOL!!!  Why complicate this beyond what it is?!  Now you're throwing this combiner in (and let's just put aside how amusingly silly and desperate that is lo) so how would that change any of the only 2 available switching alternatives?  Give us some detail and don't dance around it.  I'll be waiting. :D 

 

 

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My position 2 is house only. Not engine and house. 

 

Pos 1 - engine batt being used and all batteries are being charged

Pos2- house batts being used and only house batts will charge 

 

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1 hour ago, Phillbo said:

My position 2 is house only. Not engine and house. 

 

Pos 1 - engine batt being used and all batteries are being charged

Pos2- house batts being used and only house batts will charge 

Ok, so that's almost exactly what I said the first time.  The only difference is your position 1 is both banks, engine & house and position 2 cuts out the engine battery and keeps the house ones on only.  I thought you said it was the other way around between those two positions.  That makes it even simpler. 

And that's how 99.99999% of all boats in our sizes are.  The only differences like in mine is I have 3 separate switches instead of 1 switch with different positions, but the concept is exactly the same.

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To quote Hatem "And that's how 99.99999%" So you don't know if the boat in question is that 0.00001%. Thats all I am saying.  Nothing more...........

For all anyone knows, the OP could have a power amp connected to his starting battery. 

Also, your saying "And that's how 99.99999% of all boats in our sizes are" My boat is a 29 footer, I have 4 battery switches that Chap installed.   

 

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15 hours ago, Iggy said:

To quote Hatem "And that's how 99.99999%" So you don't know if the boat in question is that 0.00001%. Thats all I am saying.  Nothing more...........

lol, I knew you were going to dodge the questions..............AGAIN! :lol:

Oh, and the percentage that I mentioned pertains to the probability of the switch layout and battery configuration being different and has nothing to do with how it's wired or if it has a particular device attached to it or any goofy, unknown stretch scenario.  Nice try, though.  And in that such a low probability that it would be different is if it's a custom-built boat that has a custom-built switch panel, not a factory-built Chaparral with a standard PERKO switch panel that hundreds on this board have in their boats.  Come ooowwwwnnn, maaaaayyne.  

15 hours ago, Iggy said:

For all anyone knows, the OP could have a power amp connected to his starting battery. 

Oh so now he could have a power amp?  Gave up on the combiner already?  I would ask you how would that affect the only 2 available switch positions but it would be a waste of time at this point, being that you squinjeely out of every question.  

15 hours ago, Iggy said:

Also, your saying "And that's how 99.99999% of all boats in our sizes are" My boat is a 29 footer, I have 4 battery switches that Chap installed.   

So what?  It's still the same, exact, standard, switching configuration and the only reason you have 4 switches is because you have twins which need 2, separate engine batteries.  So 1 switch for each engine battery, 1 for the house batteries and 1 for the parallel lol.  Same exact standard concept just a different quantity.  Not too difficult to figure out and definitely no need to complicate things by saying "it's impossible to tell you how to switch your only 2 battery switch positions after you gave us all the info on how many batteries and how they're wired and what switch panel you have."  Sheesh! 

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7

2 hours ago, Hatem said:

lol, I knew you were going to dodge the questions..............AGAIN! :lol:

Oh, and the percentage that I mentioned pertains to the probability of the switch layout and battery configuration being different and has nothing to do with how it's wired or if it has a particular device attached to it or any goofy, unknown stretch scenario.  Nice try, though.  And in that such a low probability that it would be different is if it's a custom-built boat that has a custom-built switch panel, not a factory-built Chaparral with a standard PERKO switch panel that hundreds on this board have in their boats.  Come ooowwwwnnn, maaaaayyne.  

Oh so now he could have a power amp?  Gave up on the combiner already?  I would ask you how would that affect the only 2 available switch positions but it would be a waste of time at this point, being that you squinjeely out of every question.  

So what?  It's still the same, exact, standard, switching configuration and the only reason you have 4 switches is because you have twins which need 2, separate engine batteries.  So 1 switch for each engine battery, 1 for the house batteries and 1 for the parallel lol.  Same exact standard concept just a different quantity.  Not too difficult to figure out and definitely no need to complicate things by saying "it's impossible to tell you how to switch your only 2 battery switch positions after you gave us all the info on how many batteries and how they're wired and what switch panel you have."  Sheesh! 

Maybe I missed something!! Please, ask the question and I will give you answer.

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39 minutes ago, Iggy said:

7

Maybe I missed something!! Please, ask the question and I will give you answer.

Nah, I'm not repeating myself because you can't follow a discussion after you started the argument.  Go back and read the posts, you'll see them.  Pretty sure you know exactly what they were.  I think we're done here anyway.

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What I have learned from this discussion is NEVER follow boat wiring advice from Iggy...lol.   Thanks Hatem for CLEARLY making a simple problem easy to understand!

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9 hours ago, jeffreydc said:

What I have learned from this discussion is NEVER follow boat wiring advice from Iggy...lol.   Thanks Hatem for CLEARLY making a simple problem easy to understand!

Thanks, Jeffrey.  Yeah, it wasn't some complicated wiring schematic dilemma the OP was asking about.  There was no need to make a mountain out of a molehill with all sorts of hypothetical scenarios.

And in fairness to Iggy, he knows about electrical systems and all that but for some silly reason he couldn't offer a simple answer to what the OP was asking and when he challenged my answer, he couldn't articulate anything to explain himself or answer any of the questions.  He had ample opportunity but failed and dodged them, then got frustrated at the end.  

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Thank you Hatem for your come back.

All I was saying or trying to say. Without seeing the op boat, I hate to give a straight answer. That simple.... 

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On 11/25/2018 at 9:08 AM, Hatem said:

Correct position to use:  when starting the boat and going on a cruise, put the switch on position 2 which allows you the use of all 3 batteries, the engine and the 2 house batteries.

OK

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On 11/25/2018 at 9:08 AM, Hatem said:

Correct position to use:  when starting the boat and going on a cruise, put the switch on position 2 which allows you the use of all 3 batteries, the engine and the 2 house batteries.

WRONG

 

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Looks like Hatem will be busy again.

Normally position #1 is wired as the starting battery.  # 2  carries ALL OTHER circuits including bilge pumps. 

BUT

Companies /  mechanics do what ever they feel like.

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20 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Looks like Hatem will be busy again.

Normally position #1 is wired as the starting battery.  # 2  carries ALL OTHER circuits including bilge pumps. 

That was exactly what I said in my first post that started this whole battle, lol.  But apparently in Philbo's boat, it's position 1 that carries ALL batteries (engine & house) and position 2 is only house (cuts out engine battery).  Point is, it wasn't that difficult since there were only 2 options, lol. 

50 minutes ago, Slowhand said:

WRONG

Rwwwwrrrrrr!  Read the entire thread.  You're a day late and a dollar short.

BTW, Eric Clapton sucks!  :haha-7383: 

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