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Stuart Adair

Correct battery switch position.

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Hello all,

I have a 1990 Signature 27 with 3 batteries.  Battery 1 is wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 are wired together. I have a battery switch marked Off - 1  - 2  - All.

Could you please tell me the correct positions to use?

Not sure if it affects your responses but I have shore power connected which includes a battery charge unit.

Thanks

Stu

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This is a hard question to answer with out knowing what they power exactly. Also, what are the battery types? Starting,  deep cycle or maybe a combo of both?    

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1 hour ago, Stuart Adair said:

Could you please tell me the correct positions to use?

Not sure if it affects your responses but I have shore power connected which includes a battery charge unit.

With no other info regarding use of the boat, ill answer with the context of the charger. OFF is the best position for the main switch when charging, as the charger leads should be connected to the battery side of the switch.  

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So many questions to ask about the engine. Fuel Injection or carburetor ?    Does is ALWAYS start in 3 or 4 seconds hot or cold ?

The boat shape / style.

Do you like to cruise slowly or anchor for overnights ?

Do you have loud music playing while cruising & at anchor.

Do you have & use refrigerator ? Stove?  Microwave ? Heating / fans ?  Air Conditioner ?

 

To answer your question.  Position #1 when starting & cruising.  Stopped or at anchor is position #2

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17 hours ago, Stuart Adair said:

Hello all,

I have a 1990 Signature 27 with 3 batteries.  Battery 1 is wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 are wired together. I have a battery switch marked Off - 1  - 2  - All.

Could you please tell me the correct positions to use?

Not sure if it affects your responses but I have shore power connected which includes a battery charge unit.

Thanks

Stu

Your setup is pretty much the standard.  Battery 1 is the engine/starting battery which probably also controls the trimming of the outdrive.  Batteries 2 & 3 are your house batteries which operate all the other systems on your boat.

Correct position to use:  when starting the boat and going on a cruise, put the switch on position 2 which allows you the use of all 3 batteries, the engine and the 2 house batteries.  That way you can crank and run the engine and your other systems (GPS, caabin lights, water pumps etc.) all work as well and you run/cruise with switch in that position.  Position 1 is for when you want to run the engine only to flush it or whatever and don't need any of the house battery functions.  Position 2 allows the engine battery and house batteries to run together at the same time but, they are still independent from each other (separate banks.)  Position "All" allows you to combine all three batteries together in case you're trying to start the engine and engine battery is too low, by combining it with the 2 house batteries it may give you enough power to at least start the boat and get you home.  Rarely is position "All" used except for this type of emergency.

When you return to dock in your slip and you want to use the boat with only shorepower, you plug in you shore power cord but now you have to go by your breaker panel and not just the battery switch position.  My guess (without seeing the way the breaker panel is setup) is that to use the boat with shorepower, you need to switch the breaker panel from 12vt DC(batteries) to 12vt AC (shorepower) at the MAIN switch.  There should also be breakers for the individual appliances/fixtures.  If you want more help with how to operate the shorepower option, you need to post a picture of the breaker panel.  I looked briefly online for it but couldn't find it.

To only charge the batteries, you have to plug in shorepower and turn batteries to OFF.  

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Obviously some boats are wired differently so the OP will not know what positions to use and when until he determines how his is wired. 

 

My Cruiser: 

Start and cruise on position #1 - Both the Starting and House batteries are being charged.

On the Hook I'm on position #2 and the Starting battery is isolated with the house battery providing house power.

Next morning switch back to position #1 to start and cruise and all batteries are being charged again. 

 

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9 hours ago, Hatem said:

Your setup is pretty much the standard.  Battery 1 is the engine/starting battery which probably also controls the trimming of the outdrive.  Batteries 2 & 3 are your house batteries which operate all the other systems on your boat.

:  when starting the bCorrect position to useoat and going on a cruise, put the switch on position 2 which allows you the use of all 3 batteries, the engine and the 2 house batteries.  That way you can crank and run the engine and your other systems (GPS, caabin lights, water pumps etc.) all work as well and you run/cruise with switch in that position.  Position 1 is for when you want to run the engine only to flush it or whatever and don't need any of the house battery functions.  Position 2 allows the engine battery and house batteries to run together at the same time but, they are still independent from each other (separate banks.)  Position "All" allows you to combine all three batteries together in case you're trying to start the engine and engine battery is too low, by combining it with the 2 house batteries it may give you enough power to at least start the boat and get you home.  Rarely is position "All" used except for this type of emergency.

When you return to dock in your slip and you want to use the boat with only shorepower, you plug in you shore power cord but now you have to go by your breaker panel and not just the battery switch position.  My guess (without seeing the way the breaker panel is setup) is that to use the boat with shorepower, you need to switch the breaker panel from 12vt DC(batteries) to 12vt AC (shorepower) at the MAIN switch.  There should also be breakers for the individual appliances/fixtures.  If you want more help with how to operate the shorepower option, you need to post a picture of the breaker panel.  I looked briefly online for it but couldn't find it.

To only charge the batteries, you have to plug in shorepower and turn batteries to OFF.  

As Phillbo stated "Obviously some boats are wired differently ..........."  So true.

Hatem: Now how do you know that "Your setup is pretty much the standard. " Have you seen the OP's boat?  How do you know what "Correct position to use" with out seeing his boat and I can go on.

Plus,  and I don't mean to be harsh BUT what is "12vt AC (shorepower)"?? I have never heard of it. What switch do you have that you need to "flip you need to switch the breaker panel from 12vt DC(batteries) to 12vt AC (shorepower) at the MAIN switch." Never heard of such a switch. 

I say this for two reasons: a: I don't want to see the OP get confused by miss information. b: Please know what you are talking about.

On all my past boats, it depends on: How its wired and what you want to power. I will pick on me! I want my fridge (which is dual power 12v D.C. & 120A.C.) running 24/7 along with my pumps. So I disconnect shore power with the house batteries on. Which means I have NO 120v A.C. and the T.V. and alike will not work. BUT all my lights, head, pumps, fridge, radio and other 12v devices work.

I now plug back in. Now all 120V units work. BUT most importantly, is my 12v battery charger. Since, I am at the slip. The charger will top off the batteries and power all of my 12v devices unit I go back out. So I don't run down the batteries!

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17 hours ago, Phillbo said:

Obviously some boats are wired differently so the OP will not know what positions to use and when until he determines how his is wired. 

 

My Cruiser: 

Start and cruise on position #1 - Both the Starting and House batteries are being charged.

On the Hook I'm on position #2 and the Starting battery is isolated with the house battery providing house power.

Next morning switch back to position #1 to start and cruise and all batteries are being charged again. 

 

Thank you for the nice simple advice...I can follow that :-) 

 

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3 hours ago, Stuart Adair said:

Thank you for the nice simple advice...I can follow that :-) 

 

In order to go that, you need to know how it is wired. Get a fellow boater or boat electrician down. You don't want to go out, anchor and than have a dead battery.  Remember,  you don't know what the past owners have done.

Good luck.

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You see , the issue with battery selection  when on the hook is to insure you have a charged engine starting battery to get home with.Not knowing EXACTLY how your boat is wired makes it impossible to give you the correct answer. You need to do some testing by  removing a positive battery cable and using the battery switch see what works on each selection. Then doing the same thing with the other positive cable disconnected.

If this is a single engine then you should consider a dedicated battery system for just the engine starting. and dedicated house batteries for just the house .There are a multitude of automatic switching systems to charge all batteries while underway and yet isolate the charging systems and load with the engine off.

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14 hours ago, Iggy said:

Hatem: Now how do you know that "Your setup is pretty much the standard. " Have you seen the OP's boat?  How do you know what "Correct position to use" with out seeing his boat and I can go on.

Let's review what he said in his opening post.

On ‎11‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:26 PM, Stuart Adair said:

I have a 1990 Signature 27 with 3 batteries.  Battery 1 is wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 are wired together. I have a battery switch marked Off - 1  - 2  - All.

That is about as standard as it comes.  Engine battery is the single wired and the two house batteries are wired together.  I don't think that's too hard to figure out since almost every boat in our size and style are operated with batteries in this configuration.  

14 hours ago, Iggy said:

Plus,  and I don't mean to be harsh BUT what is "12vt AC (shorepower)"?? I have never heard of it. What switch do you have that you need to "flip you need to switch the breaker panel from 12vt DC(batteries) to 12vt AC (shorepower) at the MAIN switch." Never heard of such a switch.

Excuuuuuse me!  Obviously that was a typo.  Believe me you don't want to get into a spelling or grammar or typo contest with me with the gibberish you type, lol.  But that's ok, you caught a small mistake and usually people would realize what the person meant and make the correction and move on.  

14 hours ago, Iggy said:

I say this for two reasons: a: I don't want to see the OP get confused by miss information. b: Please know what you are talking about.

Oh spare me the drama of the Fellowship of the Miserable Clownship.  That crap has so badly infected this forum, ooof.

14 hours ago, Iggy said:

On all my past boats, it depends on: How its wired and what you want to power. I will pick on me! I want my fridge (which is dual power 12v D.C. & 120A.C.) running 24/7 along with my pumps. So I disconnect shore power with the house batteries on. Which means I have NO 120v A.C. and the T.V. and alike will not work. BUT all my lights, head, pumps, fridge, radio and other 12v devices work.

What the heII is "I will pick on me"?  Talk about confusing the OP!?

Bottom line, if his switching is not the way I described it, then he can try a different suggestion, right?  Is it the end of the world?  I don't think so.  It's also pretty easy for him to figure out on his own which items are powered by the #1 battery and what's powered by the two house batteries.  From the way he described it, he has a dedicated engine battery and two house batteries.  His switch setup should be pretty simple to figure out and the only issue is which setting (position 1 or position 2) gives him starting and operating power.  

 

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Bt Doctur said:

You see , the issue with battery selection  when on the hook is to insure you have a charged engine starting battery to get home with.Not knowing EXACTLY how your boat is wired makes it impossible to give you the correct answer. You need to do some testing by  removing a positive battery cable and using the battery switch see what works on each selection. Then doing the same thing with the other positive cable disconnected.

If this is a single engine then you should consider a dedicated battery system for just the engine starting. and dedicated house batteries for just the house .There are a multitude of automatic switching systems to charge all batteries while underway and yet isolate the charging systems and load with the engine off.

Well said!

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4 hours ago, Hatem said:

Let's review what he said in his opening post.

That is about as standard as it comes.  Engine battery is the single wired and the two house batteries are wired together.  I don't think that's too hard to figure out since almost every boat in our size and style are operated with batteries in this configuration.  

Excuuuuuse me!  Obviously that was a typo.  Believe me you don't want to get into a spelling or grammar or typo contest with me with the gibberish you type, lol.  But that's ok, you caught a small mistake and usually people would realize what the person meant and make the correction and move on.  

Oh spare me the drama of the Fellowship of the Miserable Clownship.  That crap has so badly infected this forum, ooof.

What the heII is "I will pick on me"?  Talk about confusing the OP!?

Bottom line, if his switching is not the way I described it, then he can try a different suggestion, right?  Is it the end of the world?  I don't think so.  It's also pretty easy for him to figure out on his own which items are powered by the #1 battery and what's powered by the two house batteries.  From the way he described it, he has a dedicated engine battery and two house batteries.  His switch setup should be pretty simple to figure out and the only issue is which setting (position 1 or position 2) gives him starting and operating power.  

 

 

 

 

 

You don't get it. Please read what Bt last posted. That says it all............

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The OP needs to start with determining which batteries are being charged in each position and if the starting battery is pos 1 or 2... . 

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There is a LOW VOLTAGE WARNING ALARM built into some fish / depth finders.  It is adjustable.  Use it.  It is your best defense against a battery getting too weak.

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On ‎11‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 2:56 PM, Iggy said:

You don't get it. Please read what Bt last posted. That says it all............

No, it's more like you're making a mountain out of a molehill.  And with all due respect to @Bt Doctur, the OP doesn't need to "consider a dedicated battery system for just the engine starting and dedicated house batteries for just the house"...HE ALREADY HAS THAT SET UP!  Is it really that difficult to understand what is going on so you have to complicate the whole issue?!  Let's try one last time.

This is what the OP said:

On ‎11‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:26 PM, Stuart Adair said:

I have a 1990 Signature 27 with 3 batteries.  Battery 1 is wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 are wired together. I have a battery switch marked Off - 1  - 2  - All.

So Iggy, 3 batteries!  1 wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 wired together!!!!  Not that difficult to figure out!  Obviously the battery that is wired independently is the engine battery and the two wired together are the house batteries!!!!!  It can't be the other way around, right?! lmfao.  So either switch #1 is engine battery only and switch #2 is engine & house and switch #3 is obviously the parallel like I said OR …… it's switch #1 is engine & house batteries for cruising and switch #2 is only house batteries and switch #ALL is parallel!  That's it!  There's no other way lol!  The rest of what is wired to the house or whatever is insignificant for what he needs to know to get the boat cruising!  He can figure that out on his own as he uses the boat.  There's no confusion as to whether there is a dedicated engine battery and separate house batteries so why make this any more complicated than it needs to be?!  Clownship galore here.

On ‎11‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 12:29 PM, Phillbo said:

My Cruiser: 

Start and cruise on position #1 - Both the Starting and House batteries are being charged.

On the Hook I'm on position #2 and the Starting battery is isolated with the house battery providing house power.

Next morning switch back to position #1 to start and cruise and all batteries are being charged again. 

And this is probably the correct setting.  It's ONLY one of those two possibilities and that's it!!!  Why confuse the lad with all the crap about "how the boat is wired" or blah blah blah oh my goodness! 

So Iggy, the boat has a 5.7 Mercruiser with 750 hours on it, how do you suppose it cruised for 20 gaddam years and 750 hours without a dedicated engine battery and house batteries set up off that switch layout?!  What is so confusing to you about what is more than likely with an almost 100% probability that the batteries in that boat are configured to the settings on the switch that either I said or Philbo did?  And the only difference between the two was #1 swapped with #2.  Unbelievable.  :haha-7383:

On ‎11‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 3:26 PM, Stuart Adair said:

Hello all,

I have a 1990 Signature 27 with 3 batteries.  Battery 1 is wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 are wired together. I have a battery switch marked Off - 1  - 2  - All.



Could you please tell me the correct positions to use?

Not sure if it affects your responses but I have shore power connected which includes a battery charge unit.

Thanks

Stu

So have you taken Miss Magoo out yet down the river in the UK?  Actually, I have a better question for you:  Whomever you bought the boat from, didn't they explain to you which switch to put on to start and cruise?  And which switch to put on to just have the house batteries on when you're anchored or on the hook so the engine battery is off and you don't drain it?  And if it won't start, to put it on ALL which parallels (or combines) all the batteries to give you enough power to start?   

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

No, it's more like you're making a mountain out of a molehill.  And with all due respect to @Bt Doctur, the OP doesn't need to "consider a dedicated battery system for just the engine starting and dedicated house batteries for just the house"...HE ALREADY HAS THAT SET UP!  Is it really that difficult to understand what is going on so you have to complicate the whole issue?!  Let's try one last time.

This is what the OP said:

So Iggy, 3 batteries!  1 wired independently and batteries 2 & 3 wired together!!!!  Not that difficult to figure out!  Obviously the battery that is wired independently is the engine battery and the two wired together are the house batteries!!!!!  It can't be the other way around, right?! lmfao.  So either switch #1 is engine battery only and switch #2 is engine & house and switch #3 is obviously the parallel like I said OR …… it's switch #1 is engine & house batteries for cruising and switch #2 is only house batteries and switch #ALL is parallel!  That's it!  There's no other way lol!  The rest of what is wired to the house or whatever is insignificant for what he needs to know to get the boat cruising!  He can figure that out on his own as he uses the boat.  There's no confusion as to whether there is a dedicated engine battery and separate house batteries so why make this any more complicated than it needs to be?!  Clownship galore here.

And this is probably the correct setting.  It's ONLY one of those two possibilities and that's it!!!  Why confuse the lad with all the crap about "how the boat is wired" or blah blah blah oh my goodness! 

So Iggy, the boat has a 5.7 Mercruiser with 750 hours on it, how do you suppose it cruised for 20 gaddam years and 750 hours without a dedicated engine battery and house batteries set up off that switch layout?!  What is so confusing to you about what is more than likely with an almost 100% probability that the batteries in that boat are configured to the settings on the switch that either I said or Philbo did?  And the only difference between the two was #1 swapped with #2.  Unbelievable.  :haha-7383:

So have you taken Miss Magoo out yet down the river in the UK?  Actually, I have a better question for you:  Whomever you bought the boat from, didn't they explain to you which switch to put on to start and cruise?  And which switch to put on to just have the house batteries on when you're anchored or on the hook so the engine battery is off and you don't drain it?  And if it won't start, to put it on ALL which parallels (or combines) all the batteries to give you enough power to start?   

You dont know he's set up. Two other forum member basical said the same thing as me. Without knowing how its wired it hard to say.

Now your back peddling. 

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On 11/25/2018 at 7:08 AM, Hatem said:

Exactly what HATEM says

 

 

 

 

Your setup is pretty much the standard.  Battery 1 is the engine/starting battery which probably also controls the trimming of the outdrive.  Batteries 2 & 3 are your house batteries which operate all the other systems on your boat.

Correct position to use:  when starting the boat and going on a cruise, put the switch on position 2 which allows you the use of all 3 batteries, the engine and the 2 house batteries.  That way you can crank and run the engine and your other systems (GPS, caabin lights, water pumps etc.) all work as well and you run/cruise with switch in that position.  Position 1 is for when you want to run the engine only to flush it or whatever and don't need any of the house battery functions.  Position 2 allows the engine battery and house batteries to run together at the same time but, they are still independent from each other (separate banks.)  Position "All" allows you to combine all three batteries together in case you're trying to start the engine and engine battery is too low, by combining it with the 2 house batteries it may give you enough power to at least start the boat and get you home.  Rarely is position "All" used except for this type of emergency.

When you return to dock in your slip and you want to use the boat with only shorepower, you plug in you shore power cord but now you have to go by your breaker panel and not just the battery switch position.  My guess (without seeing the way the breaker panel is setup) is that to use the boat with shorepower, you need to switch the breaker panel from 12vt DC(batteries) to 12vt AC (shorepower) at the MAIN switch.  There should also be breakers for the individual appliances/fixtures.  If you want more help with how to operate the shorepower option, you need to post a picture of the breaker panel.  I looked briefly online for it but couldn't find it.

To only charge the batteries, you have to plug in shorepower and turn batteries to OFF.  

 

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1 hour ago, BajaDriver said:

Exactly what HATEM says

Iggy just wants to complicate things with all his mumbo jumbo jive for some unknown  (or maybe it's obvious) reason with that stubborn, thick head of his that's full of hot air lmfao.  Mind you, that is somewhat of an unfortunate Bostonian trait, common to a certain few folk around here the closer you get to the big city.  Luckily, yours truly, as a Bostonian as well, doesn't suffer from Iggytitis shmalitis complexitisis! :D

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2 hours ago, Hatem said:

Iggy just wants to complicate things with all his mumbo jumbo jive for some unknown  (or maybe it's obvious) reason with that stubborn, thick head of his that's full of hot air lmfao.  Mind you, that is somewhat of an unfortunate Bostonian trait, common to a certain few folk around here the closer you get to the big city.  Luckily, yours truly, as a Bostonian as well, doesn't suffer from Iggytitis shmalitis complexitisis! :D

Wow!! I think your getting mad because you are seeing my point. 

Not stubborn, you can't say that you have seen the boat in question. Can you? There could be a battery combiner/arc which would change how to operated the battery switch.

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9 hours ago, Hatem said:

that is somewhat of an unfortunate Bostonian trait

Yes it is... I avoid the northeast because the people can be real jerks. 

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