Jump to content

Towing a Dinghy


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, Pogo Junior said:

Can anyone tell me the maximum speed for a Signature 330 that is still safe for towing an unmanned dinghy? This is for a 30-mile run I plan for next month.

I would call the dealer of the dinghy and explain the size of the dinghy and power source.You could also look on the net to see what others have successfully done. Just type in how to tow a dinghy behind another boat.  Denny.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sometimes the location of the BOW  CENTERLINE  connection point makes a huge differenceat maximum speeds. Your wake shapes will determine a lot. So does the length of rope used. S0me line lengths get very unstable suddenly as you cut thru another boats wake. A stable dingy will whip violently & toss out anything NOT STRAPPED INTO IT.  Been there Arrived & no more oars in the little boat.I always tie the small boat to a STER SIDE CORNER CLEAT.   It keeps the line out of the center wake. I use a short line for a couple of reasons.

Jerkoff PWC idiots Love cutting close to the cruiser wakes. The rope is visable. tTey are so hopped up they do not see it or connect the towed boat having a rope to it.More than 1 skier has been bloodedup I am sure. I look straight ahead.  I never feel the impact of windshield or body.  His problem.

Line can be kept out of the water easier. Cruiser I set it between the bow wave & center wave.

Geezer edit

I find that the towing eye CLOSEST to the water is most stable for the small boat.  ANY TOWED BOAT actually..

IF IF you LEAVE A ……...out board motor attached...……..MAKE SURE the motor is raised & LOCKED UP.out of the water at speed !!!!!!!!!!..……..Some O B motors can RAM THE WATER UP the motor & into the cylinder.   Done that more than 1 time...…….. When you try to hand or electric start it ???????????????? no can spin the motor at all...………… STOP cranking !!!!!!!!!!

Take out all spark plugs.  Now crank the motorfor a few times to pump all the water out.  Shake water out of the pluga.  Blow out the with you breath. Shake them again. .I always carry spare NEW set of plugs for this problem. New plus go in. A little choke for a cold engine. INstant start.  I buy a new set of spares next day.

Medication

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I tried!! First off, your not saying what type. Aluminum, Glass, soft bottom and I don't think wood. Or the size...........

If your trying to get on plane, I would almost say the more weight the better in towing. Doing 22 to 28 knots, the air (if light enough) will get under it and flip it over.

You better off adding davits and there are so many to choose from. 

 

I have a Sig 290 with a 8 1/2 foot Al inaltable, at 100 lbs. I ended up installing davits that are like to arm., so it lays flat and it will not catch the wind. Well it helps but better than standing up! Otherwise, I would have to tow it at headway speed. I could do up to 15 knots, but I would just be burning up fuel.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies. My dinghy is an 8ft inflatable with smooth soft bottom and 2.5hp propane ob motor. I was hoping to avoid hanging the inflatable so I don’t have to remove the motor. I still have no place to hang an outboard on my Signature. Definitely, I will raise the motor prop during the tow.

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Pogo Junior said:

Thanks for all the replies. My dinghy is an 8ft inflatable with smooth soft bottom and 2.5hp propane ob motor. I was hoping to avoid hanging the inflatable so I don’t have to remove the motor. I still have no place to hang an outboard on my Signature. Definitely, I will raise the motor prop during the tow.

Be careful, it could catch air and flip, it happened to me. I then figured out a way to mount it to my swim platform, now I can go at any speed. Denny.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the boat is just for putting around & to shore ? Keep it deflated until needed. Store it in a lockable WHITE ONLY box.   ((  That color keeps insides cooler ))  On the swim platform. With the O B and Propane tank.

Put a full length strip of very smooth tape on the rubbing edges of the box. To prevent scratching the inflatable as it is simply air dried on the platform for a while. Then slowly deflated into the box on top of the tank & motor.

When the dingy is in use ?  Keep the white box lid locked UP to dry out & prevent mold. Mold starts ? A weak bleach wash out works very well.

The box could be insulated or not.  A drain plug would be needed if the dingy had to be stored wet in a emergency. There are 12vdc HIGH VOLUME air pumps to mount in the engine or some other space with a air hose to reach the stern or under a lift up seat.

Piece of cake job   :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you look at the above pic, there is a davit system midship on the inflatable. As in the Hurley system https://hurleymarine.com/shop/dinghy-davit-boat/h3o/

I would not just lay it down and and just tie it off. With the right system for you as Denny has mentioned "you can go at any speed". I would take the engine off if its not a glass or AL inflatable. It will not be able to take the stress in bouncing. Another reason is weight, it will be harder to pull it up and maybe to get on plane.

Link to post
Share on other sites

As a side note on transporting a little 8' boat around. I hitched up the Lowe 16' aluminum X 4.5' wide fish boat with a 9.9 Evinrude boat with loads of gear behind the 186 SSI with the V 8.

I used a piece of heavy walled aluminum THREADED  pipe and put ringed eyed end caps on it. Clevis bolted it to both boats tow eyes . It ran off either side of the wake . the Lowe boat has a very low bow towing eye.  Ran very smoothly on the side of the stern wake. No problem ever. I do slow down for other boat wakes.

But 30 mph towing speeds beats anything else.   The Chap is the "" Mother ship ""  Lowe is the fishing boat in waters too dangerous for bow riders to enter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice Futzin !!:wub:

Love the rigid pipes to prevent lines into the props If you do a back up in open water or docking

How does a piece of closed cell Blue Floating Dock billets sound ?    Cut slots so the boards stand on their sides vertically. You could cut it so there is enough room to use the stern deck while docked. Some WHITE closed cell foam soft gasket material on the bottom & vertical side to prevent rubbing the CHAP glass. A small ratchet  to snug the blue block in place.  Worst case is 2 S S eye bolts in to the transom for the ratchet hook ends.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Towing a dingy is usually done by the slower Trawlers 8-10 knots .... if getting up on a plane - I wouldn't even consider towing a dingy.

install a davit system on your swimgrid or lash it to the bow if this is going to be a 1 time trip with a Tender/dingy ......

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, cj-orca said:

Towing a dingy is usually done by the slower Trawlers 8-10 knots .... if getting up on a plane - I wouldn't even consider towing a dingy.

install a davit system on your swimgrid or lash it to the bow if this is going to be a 1 time trip with a Tender/dingy ......

Yep!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree on overstressing a inflatable O  transom board.  Reread your O B 2 hp motor is it air cooled ?  Yes ?  What is the weight 10 to 15 pounds ?

I might chance leaving it on.  But Tank is the real weight ?   Then I would remove both .

Link to post
Share on other sites

My Lehr 2.5hp propane motor has no built-in fuel tank but uses removable propane bottles. It is less than 40lbs in weight. My problem is where to hang it if I have to remove it from the dinghy, plus the danger of dropping it on the water every time I have to re-install it. If I could leave it on the dinghy, I may have to run below planing speed and spend more fuel, by how much, no idea. But buying additional davit system will also entail cost (maybe around $900) and will clutter the swim step.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Iggy said:

That looks like a Mainship or similar boat.   

Don't know what boat it is, but with a little imagination you can make something like that work.

It is a very simple set up.

Could even take place of the swim ladder.  Denny.

Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Hatem said:

That is awesome.  So I see those 6 support poles for that platform are attached to the transom, but I'm guessing there is some detachable connection to the clips or plates that you can easily disconnect when you remove it, and those clips are permanently bolted/screwed to the transom right?  Is there like a pin or bolt to attach/detach those?  I doubt you're removing the connection from the transom every time.  EDIT: I do see what looks like catch wires for maybe some pins?

Can you turn the outdrive all the way in each direction with those poles on each side?  

The poles do not interfere with the outdrive in any way.

There are permanently mounted  brackets on the transom, and a S.S. tube mounted on the under side on each end of the S. platform, to receive the upper main frame. The upper frame actually looks like a rectangular box with 2 arms sticking out of it.

All is held together with removable pins that are attached to the poles with lanyards.

Originally there were only 2 poles, but they were not strong enough to hold the weight, so now there are 6, and 2 J shaped hooks (that I made out of 1/4 in. flat steel plate, and had them chrome plated) mounted on the bottom side of the S. platform that hooks on to the center of the front upper bar.

The tubes and fittings are all S.S. and the covering is Sunbrella.

I can walk on it, it is like having an extended S. platform, just not as pretty. 

The reason for the S.S. chains in the other photo, is to hold the bars up in place to make it easier to hook them up.

This photo is of the original design, it crashed and burned a couple of times. First came the idea and then came the work in progress. That is the way that I have always do it, don't know of any other way.  Denny.

IMG-1887.jpg

th?id=OIP.RzVMXRaZ4Gere6n5lCcvAAHaHa&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300th?id=OIP.n2rjMkeL97Z3dxPfdvI4ngHaHa&pid=15.1&P=0&w=300&h=300

Link to post
Share on other sites

Those lever pins are great for most anything.  The only real short coming of them is to have the longer end of the toggled lever pointed  UP. Otherwise the top heavy end can fall level and vibrate out over time.  VERY RARE if a constant load is on the pin.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...