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BawstinMike

2018 267 SSX - Transducer?

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Hey all,

So I was taking my boat for a cruise this weekend and kept losing my depth guage. It would get a reading, then start flashing on that same reading while underway. It sometime would come back and then continue doing the same thing. I have the dual Garmins. Not sure if its the transducer that is going or what.

Thanks!

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15 hours ago, BawstinMike said:

Hey all,

So I was taking my boat for a cruise this weekend and kept losing my depth guage. It would get a reading, then start flashing on that same reading while underway. It sometime would come back and then continue doing the same thing. I have the dual Garmins. Not sure if its the transducer that is going or what.

Thanks!

Yeah, probably the transducer has some crap on it or is on it's way out.  Can you get to it and see if it's banged up or dinged or has something stuck to it?

 

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Is it a thru-hull or transom mount? Each one would give you different thing to look at. Ether type, they do make a paint so "stuff" will not grow on it. Some times a reboot is all thats needed.

Have you upgraded the firmware?  

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Check all your wire connections and make sure nothing came loose.  Also, one time one of my divers cleaning my boat accidentally cut my transducer cable with his scraping tool.  It didn't cut all the way through but enough to cause my Sonar to go on fritz. 

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Thanks guys for the replies. Its a thru-hull Airmax, its sits right in front the motor. I checked the connections as best I could and everything seemed tight. Its a real pain in the butt; to get back behind the garmins.

both speeds it happens.

I just did the firmware upgrade as well. 

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41 minutes ago, BawstinMike said:

Thanks guys for the replies. Its a thru-hull Airmax, its sits right in front the motor. I checked the connections as best I could and everything seemed tight. Its a real pain in the butt; to get back behind the garmins.

both speeds it happens.

I just did the firmware upgrade as well. 

Is this something new that just happened?  

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38 minutes ago, Iggy said:

Is this something new that just happened?  

No, not in addition to what I already mentioned in the original post. I was just listing what I have done thus far. Seeing it's a 2018, and under warranty I will have them most likely have them replace the transducer. I just hate having anyone work on my boat other than me. 

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Suggest a few alternative considerations.

Blinking/flashing is a warning, an FYI if you will, and almost always normal. Typically caused by intermittent turbulent water flow, air under the boat, etc. Water conditions, speed, weight and balance all play a part. The readout returns to normal when these interuptions are no longer present and valid soundings occur.

If a depth never displays or that part of the HMI (gauge and/or Garmin) is always blank, then it’s time to look elsewhere and deeper. Example, transducer, wiring, growth, damage, etc.

Depending on your configuration and user entered values (lower unit offset, depth limits, etc.), it can also be a warning that you’re getting close to exceeding the low level set-point. This is system dependent of course.

Is the depth gauge or Garmin flashing/blinking?

Many boats, even those with dual HMI’s, have two depth systems, each with a transducer. One provides input to the “analog”, albet digitally displayed depth gauge or “electronic gauge cluster”. The other to the digital side, a.k.a. Garmin. Need to know your exact configuration to help narrow where and what to look at. Picture and model number for the Garmin, along with how you have each side configured. Right is offen the “electronic gauge cluster”, left is often navigation.

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26 minutes ago, Curt said:

Suggest a few alternative considerations.

Blinking/flashing is a warning, an FYI if you will, and almost always normal. Typically caused by intermittent turbulent water flow, air under the boat, etc. Water conditions, speed, weight and balance all play a part. The readout returns to normal when these interuptions are no longer present and valid soundings occur.

If a depth never displays or that part of the HMI (gauge and/or Garmin) is always blank, then it’s time to look elsewhere and deeper. Example, transducer, wiring, growth, damage, etc.

Depending on your configuration and user entered values (lower unit offset, depth limits, etc.), it can also be a warning that you’re getting close to exceeding the low level set-point. This is system dependent of course.

Is the depth gauge or Garmin flashing/blinking?

Many boats, even those with dual HMI’s, have two depth systems, each with a transducer. One provides input to the “analog”, albet digitally displayed depth gauge or “electronic gauge cluster”. The other to the digital side, a.k.a. Garmin. Need to know your exact configuration to help narrow where and what to look at. Picture and model number for the Garmin, along with how you have each side configured. Right is offen the “electronic gauge cluster”, left is often navigation.

Yep!!  Thats way I was asking if this is something new. If you read the installation instructions, it will go into what Cert it talking about. 

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5 minutes ago, Iggy said:

Thats way I was asking if this is something new. 

I know, and for sure wasn’t trying to be disrespectful. And, like I also know you know, the answer to that important question helps reduce the “gun slinging”.

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Anytime I hear a "" firm upware ?  ""    Or any uploads ?   I know there is a bad problem.

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13 hours ago, Curt said:

Blinking/flashing is a warning, an FYI if you will, and almost always normal. Typically caused by intermittent turbulent water flow, air under the boat, etc. Water conditions, speed, weight and balance all play a part. The readout returns to normal when these interuptions are no longer present and valid soundings occur.

Exactly right.  Interesting part is sometimes after stepping on it for a while and then coming off the throttle, not only will I get blinking on my new Garmin depths, it will read crazy numbers for a while, actually.  It could be as long as 10 or 15 minutes before it resets itself and works properly again.  Doesn't happen that often, but last summer for example, it happened 3 times in about 100 hours.

That's why redundancy is great with these types of things.

12 hours ago, Curt said:

I know, and for sure wasn’t trying to be disrespectful.

You couldn't do that even if you tried, pal! :)  Unlike some other clowns on here.  :haha-7383:

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Mike

have checked the bottom of the hull around or in front of thethe transducer ?  Weeds, small zebra mussels 

How about a loose power lead connection?   Look for loose or corroded plus or negative connections.

None.  Save up replacement money.

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14 hours ago, Curt said:

I know, and for sure wasn’t trying to be disrespectful. And, like I also know you know, the answer to that important question helps reduce the “gun slinging”.

I get it........ But if thats what is happening. It blinking when going on plane and takes a long time for it to work again. Than it was installed wrong.

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4 minutes ago, Iggy said:

I get it........ But if thats what is happening. It blinking when going on plane and takes a long time for it to work again. Than it was installed wrong.

I don’t believe that’s the case given the current description of the problem.

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5 minutes ago, Curt said:

I don’t believe that’s the case given the current description of the problem.

He is saying that the transducer "seats right in front of the motor".  Not sure, but thats not a great place for it.

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It's the best place for it.  That's where the majority -- if not all -- Chaparrals have their transducers installed.  Almost midship but a little astern.  That's where my original transducer is and my new one is installed also in the same spot, just opposite side of center keel.

It works perfectly 99% of the time, just that rare once in a while it freaks out a little.  

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52 minutes ago, Iggy said:

He is saying that the transducer "seats right in front of the motor".  Not sure, but thats not a great place for it.

That’s the best place for it, and right where the center of gravity is. It’s the most turbulent free part of the hull (for most water and load conditions). We should recall that a valid reading is multiple near instantaneous soundings with the same reading and no anomaly (said differently, it’s not a single shot). It’s a built-in validation, a “check and balance” if you will. Any anomaly (diasagreement from the PLC’s perspective) is an error, and the result is the flash/blink to alert the operator (“caution”).

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1 hour ago, Curt said:

That’s the best place for it, and right where the center of gravity is. It’s the most turbulent free part of the hull (for most water and load conditions). We should recall that a valid reading is multiple near instantaneous soundings with the same reading and no anomaly (said differently, it’s not a single shot). It’s a built-in validation, a “check and balance” if you will. Any anomaly (diasagreement from the PLC’s perspective) is an error, and the result is the flash/blink to alert the operator (“caution”).

I would think its the worst place. I have installed transom and thru-hulls and never put it there. But I have done some reading on that and I must say your right on about thru-hulls!!

 

In my current boat, the thru-hull I installed it half way from the keel to the side of the boat. In other word, being in the engine compartment about 2 feet to the left of keel.  I guess that would put it in that range where you are talking about. 

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At slow speeds it would work anywhere.  You have a factory reject.  Warranty replacement.

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On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 5:29 PM, BawstinMike said:

No, not in addition to what I already mentioned in the original post. I was just listing what I have done thus far. Seeing it's a 2018, and under warranty I will have them most likely have them replace the transducer. I just hate having anyone work on my boat other than me. 

Can you just have them supply the new transducer and swap it yourself?  As you probably know, it's the easiest thing to do.  Toughest past will be loosening whatever they used for caulking/sealer.  Most likely it's 5200 but even that, there's a few tricks of the trade to get it to break its bond.  I don't think they would make a big deal out of it if you insist on doing it yourself, even a warranty item like that.

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If it was my boat, and they installed the transducer. I would have them replace it. First off, if anything goes wrong. Its on them, as in leaks or the transducer does bad again.  They can't point at you for any reason.  I would want to be there, remember too. These guys do this every day and most likely can do it in half the time we can. A deciding factor for me would be, how away far is the dealership?

 

God forbid, if your boat sinks do to bad install and they do it. The Ins Co. can't say a word to you. 

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Some warranties are COMPLETLY VOIDED if you do a DIY JOB. Who decides LEGALLY how much damage you COULD HAVE done to other parts of the boat ?

Dealer should do it period.

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