Jump to content
Ptitchuisse

Moving the water pump - 330 sig

Recommended Posts

Hello boaters :)

anyone here moved the water pump located behind the galley fridge to the engine compartment ?

wouldlike to move it the and add a filtering system

thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ptitchuisse said:

Hello boaters :)

anyone here moved the water pump located behind the galley fridge to the engine compartment ?

wouldlike to move it the and add a filtering system

thank you!

You not planning on drinking that water?? We only use to wash and we turn that water over once or twice a week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The main reason is to be able to filter the water (coming from the tank/water pump) and from the city water line. I am looking at adding this filter (http://www.safh2ouv.com/Boat---RV-Owners.html) - I have limited room behind the fridge so would like to move it to the engine compartment.

As we boat/anchor on Georgian bay, it will give us more water autonomy, without having to stop to a marina to fill up the tank. Please it will filter the water when hooked at the marina

The second, less important concern, is the vibration noise against the hull. The fridge might be pushing the pump against it and it is making a crazy noise anytime the pump is starting (ie in the middle of the night when kids go to the bathroom :)) 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Iggy said:

You not planning on drinking that water?? We only use to wash and we turn that water over once or twice a week.

no drinking!!!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Ptitchuisse said:

no drinking!!!

 

Then why add the filtration system? There is no need for it, providing your getting clean water to begin with. Does it taste bad or hard water?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Noise / banging could be pressure switch acting up or set wrong. A piston pump can bang a lot.   Chech mounting bolts .

Chech pressure switch ON & OFF settings.

Use a none piston pump.

Use right softness rubber bushings to secure the pump..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Iggy said:

Then why add the filtration system? There is no need for it, providing your getting clean water to begin with. Does it taste bad or hard water?

water from the marina smell yes and we are already using a RV filter cartridge directy at the post.

But I do not feel pulling water from the lake with no filtering

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, cyclops2 said:

Noise / banging could be pressure switch acting up or set wrong. A piston pump can bang a lot.   Xhech mounting bolts .

Chech pressure switch ON & OFF settings.

Use a none piston pump.

Use right softness rubber bushings to secure the pump..

thank you, will check about the piston pump or not

we definitively have right softness rubber bushings 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want to relocate it, it’s helpful to determine if your pump will work in the new location first. Suggest that you determine if it’s self priming or, if not, whether the new location is lower than the water source and always wet; whether the motor is rated for service in an engine compartment (flammable/explosive environment); and whether the unit has enough head and flow capacity to push the water wherever it has to go (head is vertical displacement; flow is GPM and pressure). In your documentation the pump manufacturer and model number should be identified. If not, it’s on the pump. Some internet research on the manufacturer’s site will answer these questions. Splicing water lines is easy. Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Curt said:

If you want to relocate it, it’s helpful to determine if your pump will work in the new location first. Suggest that you determine if it’s self priming or, if not, whether the new location is lower than the water source and always wet; whether the motor is rated for service in an engine compartment (flammable/explosive environment); and whether the unit has enough head and flow capacity to push the water wherever it has to go (head is vertical displacement; flow is GPM and pressure). In your documentation the pump manufacturer and model number should be identified. If not, it’s on the pump. Some internet research on the manufacturer’s site will answer these questions. Splicing water lines is easy. Good luck.

thank you Curt, makes total sense!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Ptitchuisse said:

The main reason is to be able to filter the water (coming from the tank/water pump) and from the city water line. I am looking at adding this filter (http://www.safh2ouv.com/Boat---RV-Owners.html) - I have limited room behind the fridge so would like to move it to the engine compartment.

As we boat/anchor on Georgian bay, it will give us more water autonomy, without having to stop to a marina to fill up the tank. Please it will filter the water when hooked at the marina

The second, less important concern, is the vibration noise against the hull. The fridge might be pushing the pump against it and it is making a crazy noise anytime the pump is starting (ie in the middle of the night when kids go to the bathroom :)) 

Most of these pumps are noisy by nature, just FYI.  What you're hearing could in fact be the normal sound the pump generates and there's actually nothing wrong with it.  Keep that in mind.

If you do relocate the tank and pump and add that filter, where would you place it?  Do they suggest a specific in-line location?  I'm guessing most likely post-pump since you'll want the water to be filtered after it passes the tank and pump.  You'll also have to check and see if the current pump has the capacity to push through the filter, or get a more powerful pump. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The vibration/noise could be because it’s trapped between the hull and fridge, the water line is loose and slaps when pressurized water is pushed through or cavitation (air in the system). It’s not a piston pump, rather a centrifugal (impeller). If mounted tight, with isolation bushings, they don’t make much noise or vibration. Even when failing they don’t tend to make much (abnormal) noise or vibration. Noise and vibration are subjective though. And, you do know it’s on when it cycles. So...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is mine.  Original pump from Chaparral and it makes a #$%$&$% racket.  Always has since I bought the boat almost brand new and it's mounted well.

Notice the little screen filter container is pre-pump.

9clVPQ2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did a web search of the Shurflo pumps.  They all have that surging noise. Normal. 

BUUUTT

The cure is your water flow is to SMALL. So the pump is surging.  The best cur is to install a ACCUMULATOR tank pressurized to 30 PSI...…… That cured the surging banging. People said it ran quiet when the toilet was flushed !!!!   High volume no surging noise. Simple.   If interested I can get the site & post it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Hatem said:

This is mine.  Original pump from Chaparral and it makes a #$%$&$% racket.  Always has since I bought the boat almost brand new and it's mounted well.

Notice the little screen filter container is pre-pump.

9clVPQ2.jpg

I think this is the same brand, but mine is on the wall behind the fridge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, cyclops2 said:

I did a web search of the Shurflo pumps.  They all have that surging noise. Normal. 

BUUUTT

The cure is your water flow is to SMALL. So the pump is surging.  The best cur is to install a ACCUMULATOR tank pressurized to 30 PSI...…… That cured the surging banging. People said it ran quiet when the toilet was flushed !!!!   High volume no surging noise. Simple.   If interested I can get the site & post it.

wow, really nice - Please do share will help with the noise

Still need to decide about the filter. Original idea was to pump from the lake, then filter. But we were thinking to filter the whole thing (water tank or city line) 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Ptitchuisse said:

I think this is the same brand, but mine is on the wall behind the fridge.

Where is your water tank?  2013 Signature 330, right?  Is the tank in the engine compartment?  If you relocate the pump, you'll have a bit of re-piping to do to extend the lines.  Ideally the pump should be next to the tank.

And what is the main goal besides reducing the noise, more water capacity via being able to filter water from the lake?  Maybe installing a grey water system would be a better alternative for you, if you're goal is not necessarily being able to drink it.  A grey water system would help extend your current water capacity if I understand that's the way the system works. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Where is your water tank?  2013 Signature 330, right?  Is the tank in the engine compartment?  If you relocate the pump, you'll have a bit of re-piping to do to extend the lines.  Ideally the pump should be next to the tank.

And what is the main goal besides reducing the noise, more water capacity via being able to filter water from the lake?  Maybe installing a grey water system would be a better alternative for you, if you're goal is not necessarily being able to drink it.  A grey water system would help extend your current water capacity if I understand that's the way the system works. 

yes 2013 Signature 330

the water tank is located at the bow, under the bed, and the pump behind the fridge in the galley system. Already not really close to the tank

I will need to look at the grey water tank. Extending the water capacity would also add weight on the boat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Ptitchuisse said:

yes 2013 Signature 330

the water tank is located at the bow, under the bed, and the pump behind the fridge in the galley system. Already not really close to the tank

I will need to look at the grey water tank. Extending the water capacity would also add weight on the boat

I'm looking at the layout of a 2013 Sig 330 and the pump is actually located in the best spot possible IMO.  If it's behind the fridge, that means it's right under the galley sink, yes?  Then all the supply lines are relatively short runs.  Galley sink, head (toilet, sink & shower) and even cockpit sink above deck.  The only long run is to the transom shower.  Personally, I would keep the pump where it is and if you install that filter, try to get it close to the pump if you have the room.

 

 

 

2719732_15cb95a4_1.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another way to reduce noise, assuming the other things that have been suggested are ruled out and we’re talking about the common “whirl”, get a length of insulation, sew it into a cylindrical shape and slide it over the pump. A pair of long wire ties to “grip/cinch” it in-place works well. Suggest a U.S. made marine or aerospace grade vinyl with an anti-fungal and flame retardant as the cover that the insulation is sewn into. A less expensive vinyl is one marketed for awning/tent use. Provided U.S. made, these should also have an anti-fungal and a flame retardant. Look for NFPA-701, E-84, etc. These are the common flame standards. A yard or so should do it. For about $20 to $30 you’ve accomplished less noise (again, assuming the other stuff is ruled out or corrected as needed). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a good idea, Curt.  In my situation, since I have the room to do it and if the noise was too bothersome to me, I would do the same thing but instead of a cylinder, I would just make a small box out of some lightweight material as a cover and line the inside of it with some type of insulation material like you suggested and place it over the pump and clip it with a couple of screws.  That would probably muffle the sound considerably and at the same time, not suffocate the pump and plausibly cause it to overheat.

The same foam insulation material Chaparral uses under the hatch would probably work well.

eplVdAT.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×