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Tuglife

Cleaning engine compartment on a bow rider

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Hey all, i have lots of info on how to clean a bilge and how to clean an egine compartment that is big enough to crawl down into but not much on how to get that fiberglass in your engine compartment clean on a bow rider.

No way to really effective scrub under and behind the engine unless i could have the engine removed so how do ya get all that fiberglass nice and new looking again?

I was thinking about using a power washer but was afraid about overspray landing on the engine and electronics. 

I read about an idea of filling your bilge up with water and turning off the pump and mixing in some bilge cleaner than driving the boat around and letting the sloshing do the cleaning which sounds great but that wont really go up high enough on the walls of the compartment.

any thoughts?

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17 hours ago, Tuglife said:

Hey all, i have lots of info on how to clean a bilge and how to clean an egine compartment that is big enough to crawl down into but not much on how to get that fiberglass in your engine compartment clean on a bow rider.

No way to really effective scrub under and behind the engine unless i could have the engine removed so how do ya get all that fiberglass nice and new looking again?

I was thinking about using a power washer but was afraid about overspray landing on the engine and electronics. 

I read about an idea of filling your bilge up with water and turning off the pump and mixing in some bilge cleaner than driving the boat around and letting the sloshing do the cleaning which sounds great but that wont really go up high enough on the walls of the compartment.

any thoughts?

Just be sure the water level is not high enough to hit the starter while the bilge "soap wave" is sloshing around.   W

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Personally, I'd avoid the sloshing around thing. I've never been a fan of adding water to a boat, then taking a run. Alternatively, and what I've done a great number of times over the years, is pull the drain plug (boat out of the water; leaving the bilge pump powered), and brush/scrub with a broom and articulated swisher handle with a brush duct-taped to it (you can usually reach under the engine this way). Then, a nice easy power wash using the low setting. Depending on level of grime, water only, Dawn, Krud-Kutter or Simple Green (leaving these last two to soak a bit, after wetting the surface first of course). Avoid spaying the top of the engine, at and near the flame arrestor, the ECM (which, on your engine, is located on the port side and is the black "box" with a bar code), alternator, starter and batteries. Granted everything gets a little wet due to atomization, if careful, no problem. When complete, wipe down all accessible areas, starting with the top of the engine, risers, manifolds, etc. Then, leave the hatch open until everything thoroughly dries. 

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I don’t. But, it’s the yellow articulated Swifter handle with an extension. All I do is duct tape a scrub brush to it. When done, I cut the tape off so it can be used as a Swifter (again). I believe I purchased it at Lowe’s or Target. If I recall correctly, less than $20. Also, I tape the joints at the angles I desire. They break/bend easily if putting a lot of “English” on it. On most boats I lay a top the engine and clean from the side.

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I give my bilge a good spraying of Spray 9 or some  similar degreaser, let it sit for a couple minutes then take a car was brush on a pole and scrub everything down. I then raise my bow, and take a hose and gently rinse the dirty water out the drain. The pole brush makes it easy to reach back in the back of the boat and under the motor.

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I put bilge cleaner in and then partially fill with water.  Let it sit a couple of hours.  I use a string mop on a pole to get all around.  I also hang upside down to clean areas I can reach.  I can get most areas this way.  I also spray Mold Armor to kill any mold that builds up

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7 minutes ago, Chap243 said:

I give my bilge a good spraying of Spray 9 or some  similar degreaser, let it sit for a couple minutes then take a car was brush on a pole and scrub everything down. I then raise my bow, and take a hose and gently rinse the dirty water out the drain. The pole brush makes it easy to reach back in the back of the boat and under the motor.

I bet you went to town on cleaning the bilge once you pulled out the old engine.  That bilge must be spanking new clean now.  Is the new one in yet or not?  What about the risers and manifolds, did you use the copper gasket sealer?

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The only clean outs are from a dropped oil filter with NO CATCH bucket under it.  All else is water and dish detergent  sloshing around from a series of easy turns back & forth at slow speeds.  Jump over the side. remove the plug.  Get on plane to suck the sudsy water out. slow down and let in some river water.  On plane again to empty the rinse water. Over the side to reinstall the plug. Done.  Leave the hatch open for sun & air dry. DO  NOT let the water sit in the hull  !!  Cloudy, warm days Equal Molds & mildews.

Edit

 

The bilge can be dried in a 1 hour cruise & WOT blasts.  Engine heat is positive drying way.   :mandancing:

 

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2 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

Jump over the side. remove the plug.  Get on plane to suck the sudsy water out. slow down and let in some river water.  On plane again to empty the rinse water. Over the side to reinstall the plug. Done.

Wuuuuut?!  You gonna do all that at 87 years old?! :haha-7383:  That boat will fill up with water and sink before you can spell Cyclopopadopapuss LMFAO! :D 

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2 hours ago, Hatem said:

I bet you went to town on cleaning the bilge once you pulled out the old engine.  That bilge must be spanking new clean now.  Is the new one in yet or not?  What about the risers and manifolds, did you use the copper gasket sealer?

Yep, I was really able to get the bilge clean once the engine came out. The new engine is done, just waiting to get the hull out of indoor storage, waiting on better weather to go get it., probably another month or so.

Manifolds are on, risers, not yet. will wait until engine is back in boat to put risers on. I have bought the Permatex copper spray for the gaskets. Bottom line, all is ready, just need spring to get here. Come on spring. 

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If anyone is interested, vinyl siding wash works good in the bilge, at least for the mold/mildew that occurs due to dampness.  I mixed a little in a hand pump sprayer with an extended wand so could spray exactly where I wanted w/out getting it all over the engine.  Let it sit a few minutes then filled up my pump sprayer, ie. bug sprayer, with hot water this time and rinsed the bilge and engine compartment with a nice hot mist.  Did this in my driveway with the bow pointed up hill and the plug out.  Never got any water on the engine and since using hot water, got it nice and clean and it dried immediately.  This was all in a 210 SS which has one of the most difficult to reach bilge areas I've ever seen.  Mine looks like new now.  You can't even see it most of the time, but I know it's clean.  

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16 hours ago, Chap243 said:

Manifolds are on, risers, not yet. will wait until engine is back in boat to put risers on. I have bought the Permatex copper spray for the gaskets. Bottom line, all is ready, just need spring to get here. Come on spring. 

So you didn't use the Permatex on the manifold to block joint but will use it only on the risers?

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1 hour ago, Hatem said:

So you didn't use the Permatex on the manifold to block joint but will use it only on the risers?

I did not use it on the manifold gasket but will on the riser gasket.

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22 minutes ago, Chap243 said:

I did not use it on the manifold gasket but will on the riser gasket.

Curious why not on the manifold gasket?

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