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whosurpopi

Overheating, losing coolant.

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Heads go to the shop as they are. Obviously a head gasket failure and it will be important to clean and examine the area of the block deck after you get the gasket removed. That has seen a lot of heat and my hope is that the block is not damaged. Get her buffed up with a wire wheel and the lay your machined straight edge across that area. They are not OEM gaskets either so she's been apart before. Based on what I can now see of the cylinder heads, it looks like we guessed right on the gasket set. I would not let the shop start on the heads until you confirm that you still have a viable block.   W

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Any certain type of wire wheel?  Do I have to worry about scratching the surface with it?  Other than laying the straight edge, what else can i do to make sure block is OK.  Anything to do with the cylinder walls or piston tops?

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7 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

Any certain type of wire wheel?  Do I have to worry about scratching the surface with it?  Other than laying the straight edge, what else can i do to make sure block is OK.  Anything to do with the cylinder walls or piston tops?

Cast iron is really hard so any steel wire wheel is fine. At some point we will want to get each piston to the bottom of it's bore and do an oil test and visual inspection.but lets get the gasket off first as I don't like what I'm seeing between the cylinders. Hopefully it was only the gasket that took the hit. Piston tops are aluminum, and by getting the piston to the top of the bore, they are easy to clean with the same wire brush. Softer metal so go easy. If the deck cleans up good, then I'd do the dye penetrant test discussed earlier. Also, please get the lifter valley ragged off to prevent trash from dropping down into the oil pan. Did you do your timing chain test yet? W

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Just did the timing chain test.  It changes direction instantaneously.  I clean up the block and pistons, then soaked them in crc marine.  I will post pics in about two hours.

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9 hours ago, whosurpopi said:

pF_Gi7hsp3yCRyrF0-v_h3RB-acCFPe4Arcs1tr4AbP44_1jV1hHrVd1RIOdPXfd9LdtxGfvqdP-VJvUXMmO2s5nsyP4bbuZsb9iuqXd0tt5t2Purf2eB7emtl5EvwdorxVRra-wPtPz6JlJ4GZoc-2719U2Czi9odqjCf1kIMNa-cgnYcIVusJXoNkwrp8mOF3mngQQ4TqDjtNmb-dWEiK98KLfevuXxL1z9c-cPcblKLbBn1kUzkgeS8A6ZNin9ATQCIxdVRl7rMww0ttNNTHs-5RlaOZW9cBzuXmklAmyeqwKzLFry2hf_SeHN2w_uIgTB4fbUAxpjkzAnanzZ5TAIZrDjvuvhqQNsKKW

If these are the pictures, I'm missing something...  W

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I took pictures of each piston as they were cleaned at the top.  I am assuming they are not clean enough?  I have been reading other peoples threads on cleaning them, and they range from alcohol (it took him hours) to oven cleaner  )15 minutes but that seams mighty harsh.  Is there another step to take?

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1 hour ago, whosurpopi said:

I took pictures of each piston as they were cleaned at the top.  I am assuming they are not clean enough?

What image hosting site are you using?  I'm only asking because sometimes they show up like about 1/2 hours ago when I was looking at them and now there's  only blanks with a stop emblem in the middle.  Must be the hosting site is having trouble. 

I noticed some corrosion and impact damage on the top corner of one of those cylinders.  Once you get it over to the shop, let us know what they'll be doing and how much it will cost so we get an idea of the worth of DYI and just having a shop do the entire thing vs a news block.

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I am using google photos.  I must see them due to cookies then.  They are alway on my computer even when Wingnut reposted them.  Is the damage enough to not bother with this block?

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19 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

I am using google photos.  I must see them due to cookies then.  They are alway on my computer even when Wingnut reposted them.  Is the damage enough to not bother with this block?

It's probably either this site because some of mine aren't showing up today either.  They'll come back.

It sounds like you see the damage I was referring to, just to the right side of the middle cylinder on the top.  Doesn't look like corrosion but rather impact damage because the edge is somewhat bent a little.  Just see that shop mechanic who's supposed to rebuild it says.  He might not think it's a big issue and will be machined out?

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8 hours ago, whosurpopi said:

I took pictures of each piston as they were cleaned at the top.  I am assuming they are not clean enough?  I have been reading other peoples threads on cleaning them, and they range from alcohol (it took him hours) to oven cleaner  )15 minutes but that seams mighty harsh.  Is there another step to take?

The carbon base coat re-established as soon as you run the engine. All you need do is remove the thickness as it will artificially raise the compression ratio. They don't have to be shiny.

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I can't see any of the pictures. If the heads are both cracked, then the short block has seen some serious heat so if it were me I'd be looking for a replacement long block with heads, oil pan, timing chain, etc. Just not worth the effort to save the old one. I'm the last guy to replace something that can be repaired, but I really believe you need to walk away from this one.  W.  W

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wovz3TCaopl__22l8462P_FkgJGuRfChuv-EpX5XIts hard to see.  I could barely see it, but its right next to the tool.  Its so small, it looks like a towel will wipe it off.

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10 hours ago, whosurpopi said:

wovz3TCaopl__22l8462P_FkgJGuRfChuv-EpX5XIts hard to see.  I could barely see it, but its right next to the tool.  Its so small, it looks like a towel will wipe it off.

Sorry Who, but your pictures are not showing up. Just a series of numbers and letters so I can offer little help. You already know you need new heads, and if the block deck and cylinder walls have seen that kind of heat, then the chances of the lower end still being serviceable are pretty slim. At the cost of crate motors as compared to having the inspection and machine work done, and heads replaced you should be engine shopping IMHO.  W

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18 hours ago, whosurpopi said:

Just got back from the machine shop.  He said both heads have a small crack in them.

Yeah, personally I would scrap this project and put the money into a crate motor.  It'll cost you a bit more for sure, but you'll avoid all the headaches of dealing with this block which IMO seems to be far gone. 

As far as your pics, if you're using Google pics, just make sure you take the "direct link" which ends is "jpg" and just paste it directly into the quote box and it will appear immediately.  Just be sure it's a jpg link.  Good luck.

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12 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

Thank you guys.

I'm also worried about your decking on that porch or whatever that was you had the block on.  That wood as seen better days and it on the verge or cracking up completely from being so dried out and full of splits like that.  :)

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53 minutes ago, Hatem said:

I'm also worried about your decking on that porch or whatever that was you had the block on.  That wood as seen better days and it on the verge or cracking up completely from being so dried out and full of splits like that.  :)

Man, I have to make sure you dont see more pictures of the rest of my house.

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12 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

Man, I have to make sure you dont see more pictures of the rest of my house.

Sorry wasn't trying to give you a hard time.  Just looking out for you, bro.  Mine are in a bit of a rough shape too and I took the pressure washer to them yesterday and cleaned up a small portion then had to stop.  I'll finish the rest some other time since it's a big deck and a lot of square footage including railings all around and a mahogany bench seat and all that stuff takes a beating from the sun, trees, rain, pollen and winter snow.  Maintenance maintenance maintenance.

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11 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

Man, I have to make sure you dont see more pictures of the rest of my house.

Options...   Even on a major rebuild by the time I get the crank polished, block bored, hones, new pistons and wrist pins, recondition the connecting rods, new oil pump, timing chain, cam bearings, freeze plugs, complete valve job, gaskets, ect; my bill is always approaching 2 grand, and you are reusing the water pump, cam, lifters, push-rods, and the like. The options below are for all new crate engines.  W

 

https://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-marine-engine-1996-current-p-68.html

http://marineengines4less.com/marine-engines/new-marine-engines/new-base-marine-engines/new-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

http://marineengines4less.com/marine-engines/new-marine-engines/new-base-marine-engines/new-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

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1 minute ago, Wingnut said:

Options...   Even on a major rebuild by the time I get the crank polished, block bored, hones, new pistons and wrist pins, recondition the connecting rods, new oil pump, timing chain, cam bearings, freeze plugs, complete valve job, gaskets, ect; my bill is always approaching 2 grand, and you are reusing the water pump, cam, lifters, push-rods, and the like. The options below are for all new crate engines.  W

 

https://www.michiganmotorz.com/vortec-marine-engine-1996-current-p-68.html

http://marineengines4less.com/marine-engines/new-marine-engines/new-base-marine-engines/new-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

http://marineengines4less.com/marine-engines/new-marine-engines/new-base-marine-engines/new-5.7l-vortec-marine-base-engine-replaces-years-1996-present/

Thank you,  I have also been looking at some local builders.  They seam to run between 2 and 3k for the rebuilds.  Then i have the installation.

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3 minutes ago, whosurpopi said:

I dont have the snow problem, but the sun down here is a #$%#$.

Yep, I can see that was the case with those.  The sun has boiled them dry completely which then makes them quite brittle, unfortunately. 

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