Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
onesaintsfan

2005 210ssi trim sender testing

Recommended Posts

The Problem

Trim gauge has stopped working in the 4-in-1 cluster

Access to engine compartment is a royal PITA !!!

New 4-in-1 gauge is unavailable 

The Boat

2005 Chaparral 210 SSI rear bench seat and 2 captains chairs

5.0 Mercruiser 2bl V8

Alpha 1 outdrive

249 hours. 

Never in saltwater, stored inside a garage when not used.

Always flushed when brought home

Always properly winterized

What I have done

Attempted adjustment of sender  ( no response)

Took apart sender and inspected ( Very clean with factory grease still intact] 

cleaned and regreased contacts   ( no response)

disconnected plugs behind gauge and attempted to clean contacts,  re-greased and plugged back in ( no response)

gauge responds very little when beating on face of 4-in-1 cluster but only moves a minimal distance ( also of note my tach bounces around until a beat on it as well

called Cecil Marine and spoke with tech. Says very unlikely gauge is bad and suggested checking sender with ohm meter

Trim limit sender functions as normal

Questions

At what location would you check the ohms on this boat. Due to poor design access to rear of engine where wires come into the boat is almost totally inaccessible without literally taking the rear of the boat apart 

trim tilt pump is only slightly better. 

would't stand to reason that since you can move the gauge slightly by beating on the face indicate a bad gauge?

what would be the proper Ohm range if i can get to a place to test it?

I have a shop manual on disk but cant find it :(

 

Any suggestions, websites or youtube links  or help would be greatly appreciated

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It very well could be the wiring from the sender that goes through the transom. That wire tends to corrode easily due to it's proximity to the water. My trim limit wire was so bad that it just crumbled to pieces when I pulled the insulation back. BTW, all of us 210 owners feel your pain about the engine access. I did this which helps a little.....

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I did something similar. I re-designed the back seat so the whole thing comes out as one unit. Even at that it’s still going to be tough to get to the backside of the engine.  I installed a oil filter relocation kit a few years ago.  Can you believe Chaparral never designated that kit for these boats!!!!!  I use to have to lay across the engine and dangle my arm down the port side to reach it.  But back to the point, I can’t  even see back there to tell what wires come from the sender. I disassembled the sender to try to get an ohm reading there but couldn’t.  I jumped the contacts and the gauge moved about 1/4 down to 1/2.  But that’s it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You must have the carbed engine. The MPI engines have the oil filter up top. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

I too have a 210, and I believe the trim limit connection is on top of the engine near the back.  In fact I think there are 2 connections, one for the analog gauge and one for a digital gauge and I believe you can test at those connections.  I ended up having to replace both Tach and 4 in 1 gauge due to trim indicator not working so I might possibly be confusing which connections I'm thinking of, but pretty sure trim connection is where I stated.  This link is for a Craigslist posting in St. Louis.  https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bpo/d/chaparral-2-fuel-gauge/6843245287.html

The old Chaparral dealer in St. Louis periodically posts new old stock chap parts, including Chap gauges.  It doesn't state, but I believe the above posting is from them.  You might respond to it and see if they have your gauge should you think that's the problem.  I know they did, they're who I got mine from.    Cecil Marine also used to have 4 in 1 chap gauges, but maybe not the exact one our boats use.  BTW, I got my tach from Cecil.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/3/2019 at 12:17 PM, onesaintsfan said:

The Problem

Trim gauge has stopped working in the 4-in-1 cluster

Access to engine compartment is a royal PITA !!!

New 4-in-1 gauge is unavailable 

The Boat

2005 Chaparral 210 SSI rear bench seat and 2 captains chairs

5.0 Mercruiser 2bl V8

Alpha 1 outdrive

249 hours. 

Never in saltwater, stored inside a garage when not used.

Always flushed when brought home

Always properly winterized

What I have done

Attempted adjustment of sender  ( no response)

Took apart sender and inspected ( Very clean with factory grease still intact] 

cleaned and regreased contacts   ( no response)

disconnected plugs behind gauge and attempted to clean contacts,  re-greased and plugged back in ( no response)

gauge responds very little when beating on face of 4-in-1 cluster but only moves a minimal distance ( also of note my tach bounces around until a beat on it as well

called Cecil Marine and spoke with tech. Says very unlikely gauge is bad and suggested checking sender with ohm meter

Trim limit sender functions as normal

Questions

At what location would you check the ohms on this boat. Due to poor design access to rear of engine where wires come into the boat is almost totally inaccessible without literally taking the rear of the boat apart 

trim tilt pump is only slightly better. 

would't stand to reason that since you can move the gauge slightly by beating on the face indicate a bad gauge?

what would be the proper Ohm range if i can get to a place to test it?

I have a shop manual on disk but cant find it :(

 

Any suggestions, websites or youtube links  or help would be greatly appreciated

 

Send me a PM with a valid e-mail address and I'll get a PDF for the manuals to you.  W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I ask how you take the entire seat out in one piece?  Did you cut the fiberglass piece that makes up the front of the seat assembly?  Mine extends on both sides below the padding on the side, so I have to lift the seat frame out, then slide the fiberglass back towards the engine, back behind the padding and then up.  Not enough room in mine I don't believe to slide it back far enough fully assembled to clear the padding.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No, when I say one piece I mean the frame of the seat.  I take the front fiberglass piece and cushion supports off

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, sounds same as mine.  Not as bad as it looks.  With a cordless drill, I can have mine out in 5 minutes or so.  the worst is all the screws holding down the carpeted piece that the seat cushions sit on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is the link to the service manuals-   boatinfo.com   They go into depth on how to identify issues with the trim.  Based on the age of your boat, I would say they probably need to be replaced by now.  You have a trim limit switch and a trim sender.  If your saying the sender functions as it should than your issue is going to be with the limit switch. It is rarely the gauge itself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, I wouldn't too concerned about it...Don't know how long you've owned the boat for but once you have had it for awhile you can pretty much tell the positon of your outdrive(s) based on the feel, how it gets up on plane and what the wake looks like behind the boat.  If your like me though, it's something that's simply not working and you want it fixed.  My trim gauge hasn't worked since the first week I bought the boat.  It annoys me like crazy...but it would annoy my wallet more having to pull the boat out of the water and drop about a 1,000 deer to fix it.  Cause with the cost to haul her out, pay someone to do the work and the parts, it would be that much if not more.  I know if lower my drives all the way down, then do three small bumps up on my switches that my drives are exactly where they need to be for me to get on plane quickly. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ive been a boat owner for many years so yes, not really needed but like all my stuff to work ya know. Those must be pretty crappy wires because this boat is stored out of the water, has never been in saltwater, and is always rinsed when arriving home.  Also part of my wintering process is to coat the engine and outdrive in WD40 to preserve it over the winter. Boat is never even stored outside and only has 246 hours on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, onesaintsfan said:

ive been a boat owner for many years so yes, not really needed but like all my stuff to work ya know. Those must be pretty crappy wires because this boat is stored out of the water, has never been in saltwater, and is always rinsed when arriving home.  Also part of my wintering process is to coat the engine and outdrive in WD40 to preserve it over the winter. Boat is never even stored outside and only has 246 hours on it.

I have replace many of these after winter lay-up, as a boat yard will pull a boat at seasons end, clean the bottom, and dry store it for winter. As the owner launches in the spring, no trim gauge, and the yard charges him again to lift the boat so that we can change out the sender. My belief is that the boat yard actually failed the sender by getting carried away with the pressure washer in the fall. They just don't like concentrated high pressure water.  W

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×