Jump to content
EliW

Does bottom paint look different / is it ugly?

Recommended Posts

hey guys, 

short version:

need to know what soft black antifouling bottom paint with white copper (Cuprous thiocyanate) looks like with a green boat? Does the black come above the already painted black outline? One last thing can bottom paint be undone? Can I ever restore it to its original state? Looks are very important to me! 

Long version:

deciding whether or not to get my boat painted, it’s a 2018 19h2o sport. It looks just like chaparrals “dealer model”... identical with the decals and all. (Picture below). It is in the water for the entire summer at a time because we don’t have a lift. I’m willing to take it out as much as possible and clean it but I would like to get it painted but I’m wondering if it would make it look ugly? Can I ever undo this and restore it to its original state? 

 

 

Picture of my boat :

http://imt.boatwizard.com/images/1/95/39/6279539_20170818103217136_1_XLARGE.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, EliW said:

One last thing can bottom paint be undone? Can I ever restore it to its original state? Looks are very important to me! 

 

 

 

 

No.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, EliW said:

hey guys, 

short version:

need to know what soft black antifouling bottom paint with white copper (Cuprous thiocyanate) looks like with a green boat? Does the black come above the already painted black outline?

Depends on where the water line is in relation to the black color of the boat when it's in the water.  Being that this is your boat, I couldn't find a pic online of this green on black sitting in the water. 

6279539_20170818103217136_1_XLARGE.jpg

So I spent a few minutes online and luckily I found a pic of the same boat just sitting in the water.

See the source image

So typically the bottom paint, if done correctly, runs about 2" perfectly level with the top of the water line.  So if you painted this boat black, you'll barely see it and it would work out really nicely IMO. The only and obvious difference is the sheen of gelcoat is different from that Chaparral Hydro whatever it is. 

11 hours ago, EliW said:

deciding whether or not to get my boat painted, it’s a 2018 19h2o sport. It looks just like chaparrals “dealer model”... identical with the decals and all. (Picture below). It is in the water for the entire summer at a time because we don’t have a lift. I’m willing to take it out as much as possible and clean it but I would like to get it painted but I’m wondering if it would make it look ugly?

Nah, you won't even notice it.  Just have it professionally done and the two blacks will blend in greatly and just as importantly, you won't have to deal with the slime and growth as much.  I had mine done several years ago (different model) and never looked back or regretted it once.

Here's a pic of mine sitting in the slip and the dealer that did the bottom paint for me, I had told her I was very weary of that water line and wanted it to be perfect and wasn't sure how she was going to get it?  She told me not to worry about it and they have all that info on their computer records for almost every single make and model.  Well, she was 100% right and that black is a perfect 2" above  the waterline all the way around he entire boat.  So make sure you have a professional with a great reputation do it for you.

C1hbKQR.jpg

11 hours ago, EliW said:

Can I ever undo this and restore it to its original state? 

Yeah you can, but it's a bear of a project because they have to really sand that bottom paint down considerably and apply a certain primer and then the paint etc.  So all that has to be removed, re-prepped and re-finished and re-gelcoated.  Very rare you see anyone do that TBH.  Good luck and keep us posted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, EliW said:

hey guys, 

short version:

need to know what soft black antifouling bottom paint with white copper (Cuprous thiocyanate) looks like with a green boat? Does the black come above the already painted black outline? One last thing can bottom paint be undone? Can I ever restore it to its original state? Looks are very important to me! 

Long version:

deciding whether or not to get my boat painted, it’s a 2018 19h2o sport. It looks just like chaparrals “dealer model”... identical with the decals and all. (Picture below). It is in the water for the entire summer at a time because we don’t have a lift. I’m willing to take it out as much as possible and clean it but I would like to get it painted but I’m wondering if it would make it look ugly? Can I ever undo this and restore it to its original state? 

 

 

Picture of my boat :

http://imt.boatwizard.com/images/1/95/39/6279539_20170818103217136_1_XLARGE.jpg

Which is the lesser of the two. A dirty bottom and one thats not sealed or bottom paint? The growth alone can build up and slow your boat down.

 

I am going to yes, that bottom paint can be undone but the cost would be high. They can soda blast it and re gel coat the bottom. It would not be worth it and I "think" thats way Phillpo was saying no.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The gel coat IS your only true protection if you scrape any rough bottom areas.  There are MODERN super slippery coatings that growths & animals can not cling to. 

No paint will ever look like a shiny Gel Coat.

I refuse to paint any boats bottom. To me it makes the boat look like a work boat when out of the water.

Paint does wear out faster than Gel Coat.  Much faster.

My 2002 186 get the bottoms PRESSURE cleaned every fall. By excellent CAREFULL sprayers. Shiny as new.  In Saint Lawrence River all summer. A thin slimy green hair is fine. 1 mph reduction ??  I can live with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

The gel coat IS your only true protection if you scrape any rough bottom areas.  There are MODERN super slippery coatings that growths & animals can not cling to. 

No paint will ever look like a shiny Gel Coat.

I refuse to paint any boats bottom. To me it makes the boat look like a work boat when out of the water.

Paint does wear out faster than Gel Coat.  Much faster.

My 2002 186 get the bottoms PRESSURE cleaned every fall. By excellent CAREFULL sprayers. Shiny as new.  In Saint Lawrence River all summer. A thin slimy green hair is fine. 1 mph reduction ??  I can live with it.

I live in salt water where there is heavy heavy growth, about a week or so in the water and the boat will only top out at 25mph 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Hatem said:

Depends on where the water line is in relation to the black color of the boat when it's in the water.  Being that this is your boat, I couldn't find a pic online of this green on black sitting in the water. 

6279539_20170818103217136_1_XLARGE.jpg

So I spent a few minutes online and luckily I found a pic of the same boat just sitting in the water.

See the source image

So typically the bottom paint, if done correctly, runs about 2" perfectly level with the top of the water line.  So if you painted this boat black, you'll barely see it and it would work out really nicely IMO. The only and obvious difference is the sheen of gelcoat is different from that Chaparral Hydro whatever it is. 

Nah, you won't even notice it.  Just have it professionally done and the two blacks will blend in greatly and just as importantly, you won't have to deal with the slime and growth as much.  I had mine done several years ago (different model) and never looked back or regretted it once.

Here's a pic of mine sitting in the slip and the dealer that did the bottom paint for me, I had told her I was very weary of that water line and wanted it to be perfect and wasn't sure how she was going to get it?  She told me not to worry about it and they have all that info on their computer records for almost every single make and model.  Well, she was 100% right and that black is a perfect 2" above  the waterline all the way around he entire boat.  So make sure you have a professional with a great reputation do it for you.

C1hbKQR.jpg

Yeah you can, but it's a bear of a project because they have to really sand that bottom paint down considerably and apply a certain primer and then the paint etc.  So all that has to be removed, re-prepped and re-finished and re-gelcoated.  Very rare you see anyone do that TBH.  Good luck and keep us posted.

Hey thanks so much for the reply! I’ll keep you posted and I’ll get you a picture of it in the water. I found a couple of marinas doing bottom paint but the good reputable ones just don’t seem to ever call back... yikes. I’m taking it out of the water today to clean it before going out and I’ll measure how far up two inches goes from the waterline. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, EliW said:

Hey thanks so much for the reply! I’ll keep you posted and I’ll get you a picture of it in the water. I found a couple of marinas doing bottom paint but the good reputable ones just don’t seem to ever call back... yikes. I’m taking it out of the water today to clean it before going out and I’ll measure how far up two inches goes from the waterline. 

 No problem yeah me too! I've been in salt water slipped right there for 4 years.  I have pictures of fur growing on the bottom before paint that is almost 3" long rolling on the bottom I'll post the picture when I get home you won't believe it ....actually you probably will considering what you're saying.  Unless you want it to be stock like that, you'll have to trailer it every time.  So go ahead and bottom paint it and you'll be much happier and I'll even show you what the growth looks like after I have her pulled out of the water because I spend a lot of time putting a certain type of anti following paint on my out drive also because that collects growth as well and I have a special wax that I put on the props so I'll go over a that stuff later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Hatem said:

 No problem yeah me too! I've been in salt water slipped right there for 4 years.  I have pictures of furt growing on the bottom before paint that is almost 3" long rolling on the bottom I'll post the picture when I get home you won't believe it ....actually you probably will considering what you're saying.  Unless you want it to be stock like that, you'll have to trailer it every time.  So go ahead and bottom paint it and you'll be much happier and I'll even show you what the growth looks like after I have her pulled out of the water because I spend a lot of time putting a certain type of anti following paint on my out drive also because that collects growth as well and I have a special wax that I put on the props so I'll go over a that stuff later.

I’d love to know all that, pretty new to this so anything would be helpful! Was thinking about using a spray on paint for our aluminum outdrive but if you have something that works better let me know :). And yah I’ve spent whole days shimmying under the boat just scrapping thousands of barnacles off and getting their goo allover me. The worst part is that there is always that one spot where it sits on the trailer that I can never get fully clean... the barnacles leave a calcium spot after being scraped off, was thinking about using muriatic acid to dissolve it but I didn’t want to ruin my gel coat. (And it’s getting painted anyways) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, EliW said:

I live in salt water where there is heavy heavy growth, about a week or so in the water and the boat will only top out at 25mph 

Again, the lesser of the two evils. I have bottom painted my boat for years. For you lake boaters its look ugly. Makes seance since most boats around you don't have it.

If your in salt (like me) or in a brackish water. The boats around you most likely have bottom paint and thats the norm. Now the boat likes great!

 

I would not spray your out drives, but use a brush. It will go on heaver and last longer. There is a great deal of water flow on the drives and that will wear the paint off faster. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Iggy said:

Again, the lesser of the two evils. I have bottom painted my boat for years. For you lake boaters its look ugly. Makes seance since most boats around you don't have it.

If your in salt (like me) or in a brackish water. The boats around you most likely have bottom paint and thats the norm. Now the boat likes great!

 

I would not spray your out drives, but use a brush. It will go on heaver and last longer. There is a great deal of water flow on the drives and that will wear the paint off faster. 

Ok I’ll get it brushed, I live on the Severn river (brackish salt water). Most boats I have noticed are bottom painted. I was planning on getting my outdrive painted a different color than the hull maybe red or white, might look nice? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, EliW said:

Ok I’ll get it brushed, I live on the Severn river (brackish salt water). Most boats I have noticed are bottom painted. I was planning on getting my outdrive painted a different color than the hull maybe red or white, might look nice? 

Do it your self, I have twins and it takes me about 45 per. The first coat is the hardest, than about 20 to 25 mins for the 2nd coat. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed bottom paint from my old Sea Ray 21 back in the late 90s.  It was a bear but is doable.  There was a paint removing gel that I brushed on that helped take the paint off.  Lots of scraping but it worked.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Supposedly the latest super slippery  bottom coatings are completely hard & shiney  for many years. I would check them out before painting.

The slickness ADDS speed. Lasts for 3 to 5 or more years. I am a Geezer. I know about improvements sometimes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 9:57 AM, EliW said:

I’d love to know all that, pretty new to this so anything would be helpful!

So this is what the bottom of my 276 ssx looked like 5 years ago when I slipped it for only 2 months of the season.  The last two months in New England, the water temperature gets the warmest an that's when most of this stuff grows like crazy.  I've posted these before on some other thread and looked for it so I could just point you to it but couldn't find it.  Anyway, this is fur!

mVXvLM2.jpg

bAxdwR0.jpg

And of course my WOT was barely 37mph lol.  So I went to the dealer that fall and told them I wanted it bottom painted and to use the good stuff.  But I did have to clean it to a certain degree since they do have to sand it down a little to give it some tooth for the new paint to stick, but they wouldn't accept the above unless they charged me $$$ to power wash it.  Well, I have a couple of those for my business so it didn't take too long to clean the majority of the stuff off.  They knew exactly where and how this specific boat sat in the water and so they had the computer template for the line and they got it painted right on the 2" line above the waterline.

JcCLYsm.jpg

 

On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 9:57 AM, EliW said:

Was thinking about using a spray on paint for our aluminum outdrive but if you have something that works better let me know :).

After a full season with the bottom paint and a few outdrive anti-fouling spray coat, this is what it looked like when we hauled her out by the end of October, I believe.

I was actually really happy with the results!  I couldn't  believe how mild the growth was.  Even the props, while you don't see that shiny stainless steel, they were perfectly fine.  Some other interesting things to see is the Lenco trim tab actuators; they actually have an anti-fouling paint on them and that's why there is no growth on the actuators themselves but instead, on the aluminum tabs themselves and the space between.  But a couple or blasts with the power washer and bang.   Gone.  I even dropped them all the way and cleaned them much better.

mAbR2yS.jpg

The rest of the hull had barely anything on it.  It seems most of the growth develops in the stern where there are nooks and crannies that the barnacles and algae and whatever can tuck into.  I also didn't put any anti-fouling on my trim tabs and so they took advantage of that.   This year I made sure the trim tabs were covered with anti-fouling paint.

So 15 minutes later with my power washer and some careful pointing since you don't want to blow out any wire connections or seals etc, it was almost like when it went in.  Notice the sacrificial anode on top of the cavitation plate?  Did its job very nicely.  The stuff just blew right off because it couldn't hold on from the antifouling paint.  You can even see the trim tabs are completely clear.  This is also something that can be done mid-season if you have the time.  For me, I didn't notice any performance issues and so I didn't bother.

YJDOYOg.jpg

TZv98N5.jpg

I left the stuff inside the outdrive because in the manual, it specifically states NOT to use any pressure washer there because there is the trim sender and its wires and the water inlet hoses for cooling the engine etc.  That had to be done by hand and it wasn't a huge deal.  Considering the hour or two I spent cleaning this bit of growth and avoided trailering a 29ft boat every time we wanted to go boating is more than a fair trade in my favor!  There's nothing like being able to walk to your slip, do your checklist, crank the engine, untie the lines and off you go.  :) 

On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 9:57 AM, EliW said:

And yah I’ve spent whole days shimmying under the boat just scrapping thousands of barnacles off and getting their goo allover me.

Oh yeah, been there, done that!  Sucks!  Now all you need to do is spend a couple hundred bucks on a good pressure washer that also has a soap container and spray the bottom clean as a whistle.

On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 9:57 AM, EliW said:

The worst part is that there is always that one spot where it sits on the trailer that I can never get fully clean... the barnacles leave a calcium spot after being scraped off, was thinking about using muriatic acid to dissolve it but I didn’t want to ruin my gel coat. (And it’s getting painted anyways) 

This stuff here is literally the BEST stuff IMO for those brutal calcium deposits left over from the bilious of blistering barnacles lol.  It's basically a watered-down version of muriatic acid so it's not as powerful as the commercial stuff we use in the construction business.  But if you're familiar with the smell of Muriatic acid, you'll be able to tell immediately this is the same stuff.  If you use it, obviously use all the recommended safety instructions on the bottle itself. 

gatnksD.jpg

That's what I used to get into the deeper sections of the outdrive but I'll tell you, the reason there was more build-up of growth inside the outdrive assembly is because I didn't antifoul it enough.  This year I made sure I put more than enough inside and we'll see how it works.

This is what the outdrive looks like after an On & Off was and scrape.  Who can be unhappy with these results?  This is this fall when decided to take off the outdrive to not only check the shafts, the U-Joints, splines, seals and any evidence of water getting into the bellows and the bellows themselves (which I had bought new ones since I was going to change them anyway but I noticed the original ones which are 9 years old were in perfect condition. So I'll wait until next year to see if they need to be replaced.  You also have much easier access to those inner areas at the transom assembly.  That 2x4 & plyw cart took 15 minutes to cut and assemble, BTW which I will be patenting it soon.  And to the right you can see my powerwasher which is a Subaru and works absolutely like a dream.  Just did a large portion of my deck with it.

P4owk9i.jpg

Painted the outdrive with its original silver/grey paint.

APkPwcv.jpg

Cleaned to whole transom assembly area of all that growth which came off rather easily TBH.  A little bit of On & Off mixed with Simple Green and water 1/3 each and let it sit for 1 minute and a hosing with a regular fitting set of "shower" and the crap melted off.

Then I taped the line between the outdrive transom assembly and the boat's bottom paint because one has copper and the other doesn't so you want to leave that space since copper-based paint are not good to use on aluminum outdrive.

MVN4KyK.jpg

So this year, I noticed that there are a couple of spots on the bottom paint that need to be touched up, so I went to the dealer to find out what paint exactly they used to be sure it matched my receipt in my "Boat File."  And this is the stuff they used on my boat. Obviously i's the can to the right with the black color and it's an ablative which makes it very slippery. It is expensive I believe that can is a little over $200.

Eco-friendly stuff and the white stuff is copper free which suits some much more than others.

OEXDCVN.jpg

So like I mentioned about the trim tabs before, this time I sprayed several coats of anti-fouling paint on all surfaces and of course, new anodes.

eMLdFr7.jpg

Reinstalled the outdrive and connected everything and before painting the lower unit of the outdrive which is not reachable on the home-made cart, I tested it to be sure al was good and no leaks or anything out of the ordinary.   But the beauty of this pic is you would never think that bit of growth was on it.

MhyhWqD.jpg

Once the bottom unit was painted, I used Petit grey prop and outdrive grey anti-fouling spray (which is a bit weird that it dries flat) and I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed. I forget how many coats I out on but at least 10 coats.

YSE5clR.jpg

Added new sacrificial anodes at all necessary spots and even polished the props, timed them perfectly to the inner had a blade facing 12 o'clock and the outer one facing 9 o'clock.  Sorry couldn't find any pics of any of the Prop Glop I used on the props.

Checked it again with the props on to see if anything didn't look right (even ran the props at idle) and she checked out'

m2uyZgl.jpg

Off she went to the ramp.

6JrBJNY.jpg

My buddy uses the black stuff on his drive and he brushes it on. You can do that as well.  I prefer to spray as many coats as I can.  Hope this all helps, it' a lot of work lol but Idon't mind helping out a fellow Chaparral  boat owner.

qPX6Eyd.jpg

CP2JZvc.jpg

13 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Supposedly the latest super slippery  bottom coatings are completely hard & shiney  for many years. I would check them out before painting.

The slickness ADDS speed. Lasts for 3 to 5 or more years. I am a Geezer. I know about improvements sometimes.

That's the stuff in those cans pics I posted. Very strong and when it's wet, it's wicked slippery!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Hatem said:

So this is what the bottom of my 276 ssx looked like 5 years ago when I slipped it for only 2 months of the season.  The last two months in New England, the water temperature gets the warmest an that's when most of this stuff grows like crazy.  I've posted these before on some other thread and looked for it so I could just point you to it but couldn't find it.  Anyway, this is fur!

mVXvLM2.jpg

bAxdwR0.jpg

And of course my WOT was barely 37mph lol.  So I went to the dealer that fall and told them I wanted it bottom painted and to use the good stuff.  But I did have to clean it to a certain degree since they do have to sand it down a little to give it some tooth for the new paint to stick, but they wouldn't accept the above unless they charged me $$$ to power wash it.  Well, I have a couple of those for my business so it didn't take too long to clean the majority of the stuff off.  They knew exactly where and how this specific boat sat in the water and so they had the computer template for the line and they got it painted right on the 2" line above the waterline.

JcCLYsm.jpg

 

After a full season with the bottom paint and a few outdrive anti-fouling spray coat, this is what it looked like when we hauled her out by the end of October, I believe.

I was actually really happy with the results!  I couldn't  believe how mild the growth was.  Even the props, while you don't see that shiny stainless steel, they were perfectly fine.  Some other interesting things to see is the Lenco trim tab actuators; they actually have an anti-fouling paint on them and that's why there is no growth on the actuators themselves but instead, on the aluminum tabs themselves and the space between.  But a couple or blasts with the power washer and bang.   Gone.  I even dropped them all the way and cleaned them much better.

mAbR2yS.jpg

The rest of the hull had barely anything on it.  It seems most of the growth develops in the stern where there are nooks and crannies that the barnacles and algae and whatever can tuck into.  I also didn't put any anti-fouling on my trim tabs and so they took advantage of that.   This year I made sure the trim tabs were covered with anti-fouling paint.

So 15 minutes later with my power washer and some careful pointing since you don't want to blow out any wire connections or seals etc, it was almost like when it went in.  Notice the sacrificial anode on top of the cavitation plate?  Did its job very nicely.  The stuff just blew right off because it couldn't hold on from the antifouling paint.  You can even see the trim tabs are completely clear.  This is also something that can be done mid-season if you have the time.  For me, I didn't notice any performance issues and so I didn't bother.

YJDOYOg.jpg

TZv98N5.jpg

I left the stuff inside the outdrive because in the manual, it specifically states NOT to use any pressure washer there because there is the trim sender and its wires and the water inlet hoses for cooling the engine etc.  That had to be done by hand and it wasn't a huge deal.  Considering the hour or two I spent cleaning this bit of growth and avoided trailering a 29ft boat every time we wanted to go boating is more than a fair trade in my favor!  There's nothing like being able to walk to your slip, do your checklist, crank the engine, untie the lines and off you go.  :) 

Oh yeah, been there, done that!  Sucks!  Now all you need to do is spend a couple hundred bucks on a good pressure washer that also has a soap container and spray the bottom clean as a whistle.

This stuff here is literally the BEST stuff IMO for those brutal calcium deposits left over from the bilious of blistering barnacles lol.  It's basically a watered-down version of muriatic acid so it's not as powerful as the commercial stuff we use in the construction business.  But if you're familiar with the smell of Muriatic acid, you'll be able to tell immediately this is the same stuff.  If you use it, obviously use all the recommended safety instructions on the bottle itself. 

gatnksD.jpg

That's what I used to get into the deeper sections of the outdrive but I'll tell you, the reason there was more build-up of growth inside the outdrive assembly is because I didn't antifoul it enough.  This year I made sure I put more than enough inside and we'll see how it works.

This is what the outdrive looks like after an On & Off was and scrape.  Who can be unhappy with these results?  This is this fall when decided to take off the outdrive to not only check the shafts, the U-Joints, splines, seals and any evidence of water getting into the bellows and the bellows themselves (which I had bought new ones since I was going to change them anyway but I noticed the original ones which are 9 years old were in perfect condition. So I'll wait until next year to see if they need to be replaced.  You also have much easier access to those inner areas at the transom assembly.  That 2x4 & plyw cart took 15 minutes to cut and assemble, BTW which I will be patenting it soon.  And to the right you can see my powerwasher which is a Subaru and works absolutely like a dream.  Just did a large portion of my deck with it.

P4owk9i.jpg

Painted the outdrive with its original silver/grey paint.

APkPwcv.jpg

Cleaned to whole transom assembly area of all that growth which came off rather easily TBH.  A little bit of On & Off mixed with Simple Green and water 1/3 each and let it sit for 1 minute and a hosing with a regular fitting set of "shower" and the crap melted off.

Then I taped the line between the outdrive transom assembly and the boat's bottom paint because one has copper and the other doesn't so you want to leave that space since copper-based paint are not good to use on aluminum outdrive.

MVN4KyK.jpg

So this year, I noticed that there are a couple of spots on the bottom paint that need to be touched up, so I went to the dealer to find out what paint exactly they used to be sure it matched my receipt in my "Boat File."  And this is the stuff they used on my boat. Obviously i's the can to the right with the black color and it's an ablative which makes it very slippery. It is expensive I believe that can is a little over $200.

Eco-friendly stuff and the white stuff is copper free which suits some much more than others.

OEXDCVN.jpg

So like I mentioned about the trim tabs before, this time I sprayed several coats of anti-fouling paint on all surfaces and of course, new anodes.

eMLdFr7.jpg

Reinstalled the outdrive and connected everything and before painting the lower unit of the outdrive which is not reachable on the home-made cart, I tested it to be sure al was good and no leaks or anything out of the ordinary.   But the beauty of this pic is you would never think that bit of growth was on it.

MhyhWqD.jpg

Once the bottom unit was painted, I used Petit grey prop and outdrive grey anti-fouling spray (which is a bit weird that it dries flat) and I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed. I forget how many coats I out on but at least 10 coats.

YSE5clR.jpg

Added new sacrificial anodes at all necessary spots and even polished the props, timed them perfectly to the inner had a blade facing 12 o'clock and the outer one facing 9 o'clock.  Sorry couldn't find any pics of any of the Prop Glop I used on the props.

Checked it again with the props on to see if anything didn't look right (even ran the props at idle) and she checked out'

m2uyZgl.jpg

Off she went to the ramp.

6JrBJNY.jpg

My buddy uses the black stuff on his drive and he brushes it on. You can do that as well.  I prefer to spray as many coats as I can.  Hope this all helps, it' a lot of work lol but Idon't mind helping out a fellow Chaparral  boat owner.

qPX6Eyd.jpg

CP2JZvc.jpg

That's the stuff in those cans pics I posted. Very strong and when it's wet, it's wicked slippery!

Wow thanks so much! I’ll be getting those paints/sprays. I have a couple questions for you (I feel so bad asking after such a great reply) 

When my boat is sitting in the water the back end is up very close to where the color shifts (picture below) I’m wondering if the paint would go up onto the green or if I could stop it where the black ends 

 

does white copper in a black paint form look shinier than others?

would a white paint get a dirty look fast I’m Thinking about painting my inboard outboard drive either white or red, separate from the main hull which will be black or maybe a golden propeller and white or red drive or some combination like that.

 

Decided to get a pressure washer about ten minutes after the first time I pulled it out! It doesn’t do too much accept for grime and hair but it will start working a lot better once we’re using it on a painted surface instead of gelcoat I think....  

And again thanks for all your help and time, I know I have a lot of annoying question so please don’t feel obligated to answer them :)

Also wanted to say that you have a very beautiful boat! 

ZHWqN6N.jpg

 

F8O8nDU.jpg

48bQWqM_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

LKXuNMh.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dO5Z7jM.jpg

TQSvf4d.jpg

SpmlDXR.jpg

SpmlDXR.jpg

 

One last thing (I promise) does the paint have to go 2 inches above the water line or can it go to the waterline because I don’t notice any growth above the waterline beside some slime which is easy enough to remove even in the water 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, EliW said:

Wow thanks so much! I’ll be getting those paints/sprays. I have a couple questions for you (I feel so bad asking after such a great reply

When my boat is sitting in the water the back end is up very close to where the color shifts (picture below) I’m wondering if the paint would go up onto the green or if I could stop it where the black ends 

 

does white copper in a black paint form look shinier than others?

would a white paint get a dirty look fast I’m Thinking about painting my inboard outboard drive either white or red, separate from the main hull which will be black or maybe a golden propeller and white or red drive or some combination like that.

 

Decided to get a pressure washer about ten minutes after the first time I pulled it out! It doesn’t do too much accept for grime and hair but it will start working a lot better once we’re using it on a painted surface instead of gelcoat I think....  

And again thanks for all your help and time, I know I have a lot of annoying question so please don’t feel obligated to answer them :)

 

ZHWqN6N.jpg

 

F8O8nDU.jpg

48bQWqM_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

LKXuNMh.jpg

Don't ever worry about asking as many questions as you want.  None are annoying as a matter of fact, the last one about the green line converging with the black at the stern is a very legitimate concern.   Looking at the pics (glad you posted them, makes a huge difference) I would keep the bottom paint edge above the water line by the 2" or less if that's what you want to do (and if the painting dealer thinks it's best which I probably assume they will) and when it reaches the green at the stern, it looks like there might be just about an inch+ of black still above water and I would tell them to stick with that and not go into the green at all!  Some wouldn't care and run the line up, but I would.  The only thing you'll have to do is scrub and wash any additional slime that does collect above that line just in that area which you can easily do at the slip every once in a while.  Not a big deal at all.

Personally I wouldn't go with a white paint.  But I don't know enough about that, color, maybe someone who has it can chime in.  To me it would seem like anything that would collect on the lightest color in the color spectrum would show up much more than on black or any darker color.

A red outdrive would look really cool, if you can find one that is an anti fouling paint.  Will it match the rest of the boat?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Hatem said:

Don't ever worry about asking as many questions as you want.  None are annoying as a matter of fact, the last one about the green line converging with the black at the stern is a very legitimate concern.   Looking at the pics (glad you posted them, makes a huge difference) I would keep the bottom paint edge above the water line by the 2" or less if that's what they want to do and when it reaches the green at the stern, it looks like there might be just about an inch of black still above water and i would tell them to stick with that and not go into the green at all!  Some wouldn't care and run the line up but I would.  The only thing you'll have to do is scrub and wash any additional slime that does above it just in that are which you can easily do at the slip every once in a while.  Not a big deak.

Personally I wouldn't go with a white paint.  But I don't know enough of that maybe someone who has it can chime in.

A red outdrive would look really cool, if you cam find one that is an anti fouling paint.  Will it match the rest of the boat?

Thanks!

It may match depending... I’m getting seadek for the swim platform and up on the bow where you step on sometimes, I’m thinking white Matt with green outlines throughout (I’m going with a shattered or shard kind of pattern) so red may go with the boat, even more if I end up picking a red color for the Matt. 

Fvnp3BP.jpg

Would having the paint right at the waterline be a bad idea? Barnacles wouldn’t be able to grow and it would be harder to notice. 

One last thing, I’m noticing some rust spots on some places such as my ladder, anything special you use for that or just some wd-40 ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Hatem, if you paint, just have it stay in the black. don't touch the green at all.  worst case, you have to wash a little scum line off, but no big deal.

My dad had the Petit white paint on his boat, and it looked good as far as a match to his white gelcoat.  definitely not glossy, but closer than traditional paint.  I believe they make a black version of that as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, summerx said:

I agree with Hatem, if you paint, just have it stay in the black. don't touch the green at all.  worst case, you have to wash a little scum line off, but no big deal.

My dad had the Petit white paint on his boat, and it looked good as far as a match to his white gelcoat.  definitely not glossy, but closer than traditional paint.  I believe they make a black version of that as well.

Ok will look into it. Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, EliW said:

Thanks!

It may match depending... I’m getting seadek for the swim platform and up on the bow where you step on sometimes, I’m thinking white Matt with green outlines throughout (I’m going with a shattered or shard kind of pattern) so red may go with the boat, even more if I end up picking a red color for the Matt. 

Fvnp3BP.jpg

Would having the paint right at the waterline be a bad idea? Barnacles wouldn’t be able to grow and it would be harder to notice. 

One last thing, I’m noticing some rust spots on some places such as my ladder, anything special you use for that or just some wd-40 ? 

That's such an awesome boat.  My son is thinking of getting either an H20 or the Yamaha.  He actually likes the Yammy a lot more for many reasons and he asked me what I thought which I thought was weird since he would know my answer, or at least assume I would say H20??!?!?!lol1/2" to spare before the green, I would use it if possible.

I think you want to try to get above the water line by as much as you can near that stern area.  I don't think barnacles would be able to grow like you said but if you have

Yes, on the rust spots, this is what I do but (DISCLAIMER) because it's a bit dangerous so if you do it, be very careful.  I use that same stuff I posted a pic of "On & Off" and it works AMAZING!  I do water it down maybe 10% just because it's essentially muriatic acid which can literally eat through your skin.  And I don't use it on the boat unless I don't have a choice.  For example, the ladder is easy to disconnect so I pull it off, make my On & Off with 10% water, gloves and a scrub pad and wipe them all down and that rust comes off like it's no one's business.  Then I have a small spray bottle of Simple Green 75%-25% water and spray it on and then hose it down really well with water.

Here's an example I did just before launching.  Look at all those nasty, rusty spots on the swim platform ladder.

N8MisjP.jpg

After my special concoction and method.  It looked brand new when I was done.  You can also polish stainless steel to keep it really shiny all the time.

63KZAIv.jpg

 

15 hours ago, summerx said:

I agree with Hatem, if you paint, just have it stay in the black. don't touch the green at all.  worst case, you have to wash a little scum line off, but no big deal.

My dad had the Petit white paint on his boat, and it looked good as far as a match to his white gelcoat.  definitely not glossy, but closer than traditional paint.  I believe they make a black version of that as well.

This year because they put me in that sucky slip near the entrance, I noticed there's a lot of crap that collects in the water near that end probably because it's the very shallow end of the marina and when the tide goes out, all the ssshhhttttuuuufff that collects there rises or whatever, so I started noticing a line of grim above my bottom paint line at the bow!  Pissssed me off because I have to get the brush out and while my wife is hosing it down, I'm brushing off the bow seats blindly because I can't see.  I hate that spot they gave me this year.  Totally agree with the white bottom paint.  Most who use it do it because they like their white, gelcoat bottoms and so they prefer to match it as close as possible.

Where is @Iraq 69 and his brand spanking new H20?  Hopefully you get this tag and post some pics of your so that you and @EliW can compare things on similar boats.  Plus we want to know how your first launch and boating experience with the new boat went.

16 hours ago, EliW said:

Fvnp3BP.jpg

A red matt on that would look great!  And new SeaDek and all that it'll be a completely different boat!  I'd love to see a red outdrive. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/13/2019 at 7:02 AM, Hatem said:

That's such an awesome boat.  My son is thinking of getting either an H20 or the Yamaha.  He actually likes the Yammy a lot more for many reasons and he asked me what I thought which I thought was weird since he would know my answer, or at least assume I would say H20??!?!?!lol1/2" to spare before the green, I would use it if possible.

I think you want to try to get above the water line by as much as you can near that stern area.  I don't think barnacles would be able to grow like you said but if you have

Yes, on the rust spots, this is what I do but (DISCLAIMER) because it's a bit dangerous so if you do it, be very careful.  I use that same stuff I posted a pic of "On & Off" and it works AMAZING!  I do water it down maybe 10% just because it's essentially muriatic acid which can literally eat through your skin.  And I don't use it on the boat unless I don't have a choice.  For example, the ladder is easy to disconnect so I pull it off, make my On & Off with 10% water, gloves and a scrub pad and wipe them all down and that rust comes off like it's no one's business.  Then I have a small spray bottle of Simple Green 75%-25% water and spray it on and then hose it down really well with water.

Here's an example I did just before launching.  Look at all those nasty, rusty spots on the swim platform ladder.

N8MisjP.jpg

After my special concoction and method.  It looked brand new when I was done.  You can also polish stainless steel to keep it really shiny all the time.

63KZAIv.jpg

 

This year because they put me in that sucky slip near the entrance, I noticed there's a lot of crap that collects in the water near that end probably because it's the very shallow end of the marina and when the tide goes out, all the ssshhhttttuuuufff that collects there rises or whatever, so I started noticing a line of grim above my bottom paint line at the bow!  Pissssed me off because I have to get the brush out and while my wife is hosing it down, I'm brushing off the bow seats blindly because I can't see.  I hate that spot they gave me this year.  Totally agree with the white bottom paint.  Most who use it do it because they like their white, gelcoat bottoms and so they prefer to match it as close as possible.

Where is @Iraq 69 and his brand spanking new H20?  Hopefully you get this tag and post some pics of your so that you and @EliW can compare things on similar boats.  Plus we want to know how your first launch and boating experience with the new boat went.

A red matt on that would look great!  And new SeaDek and all that it'll be a completely different boat!  I'd love to see a red outdrive. 

Haha thanks! I was actually looking at the Yamahas before I bought this boat (the jet propulsion Yamahas) they are nice but they can’t beat the chaparral! I was planning on doing maybe a white top seadek but with green outlines,

 

so im thinking this pattern,

OqpElKZ.jpg

And if you can imagine, the gray parts in the above image would be white,

tsse6Do.jpg

And the black indents or outlines would be green, the same color of the boat and accents,

B6K5EWA.png

 

I may make the top of the Mat any of these, I haven’t fully decided!

Oly0EZ2.jpg

I think white would be the cleanest look though.

I’m also getting seadek for the bow of the boat where you sometimes step in, it Would sort of wrap around the navigation lights. I’m ordering the template kit today so I can trace out the mat and send it back to be made. I’ll update you with a picture once the final mat is installed ! 

I’d love to talk to @Iraq 69 about his boat, Especially if he plans on doing any aftermarket electrical installations such as lights. I’m getting a rgb light bar , some led strips as well as some other things such as a PA kind of system with a microphone (basically a megaphone) that I’ll stretch to the right side of the wakeboard tower and the light bar in the middle. My questions on the electrical aspect of this are probably endless. But anyone that knows where I would get the positive and negative wires from the battery line to plug into an extra switch panel please let me know!

I think I’m right with this, it goes,

battery, positive from battery wired through and in-line fuse into my switch panel that has a circuit breaker already built into it, then I would wire each of my loads positives to my switch panel. I would then wire the negatives of my load to a bus bar that is wired negatively to the battery. 

If I wanted to use a light control box I would wire the lights to the controll box and the control box the the switch panel and the bus bar. Il probably just get lights that I can control from my phone so I can turn them on from the switch panel and then use my phone.

my biggest question is where would I get positives and negative power lines from the battery? There’s a small opening on the top of the side storage or gunnel but I don’t know where I get the power from to the switch panel. Maybe directly from the battery or a seccond battery. (Pictures in second post)

One last question can I have as many in line fuses as I want? For example one on every positive line on every load before it runs into the switch panel? ( which has a built in circuit breaker). and a fuse in between the battery and the switch panel? Only on the positives. 

There are some blank I think maybe fuses behind by dashboard that I can access from a storage spot, do I need these for that I’m doing? 

(Pictures in next post )

 

edit: sorry guys this is a stupid amount of questions that can easily be answered with a google search (ignore these last couple posts)... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Inside starboard gunnel facing the bow 

ZtpyIfh.jpg

Inside same gunnel facing stern

rmN6T4d.jpg

One more picture of the gunnel from the engine bay looking towards the bow 

NNZ03LW.jpg

I plan on putting the switch panel on the right side in the little storage strip that’s on the gunnel or side of the boat and there is a small box there wires can be fed through (where I took these pictures)

Empty fuses I think, on the port side behind on the dash

xkJIP4i.jpg

One more picture of the gunnel but from the port side facing the engine bay

BABXdR5.jpg

 

Sorry these are some horrible pictures from a video I took last night to look around I can get some better ones tonight if you guys want.

And the switch panel (I may get it with more switches )

EiKgZwQ.png

 

here are the things I’m planning on adding to the wake board tower 

ER8KdBn.jpg

3akntEO.jpg

 

KK6wFc3.jpg

And then led strips around the boat maybe

2dbFJ7k.jpg

 

Already have a underwater led plug, kinda like this 

iLwwK9j.jpg

The plug 

KTAy0SE.jpg

 

And and then I might add little leds inside the hole on the bottom of my cup holders. They would be elevated so that water can still escape 

 

edit: sorry guys this is a stupid amount of questions that can easily be answered with a google search (ignore these last couple posts)... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wait no, I would connect both wires from the battery (positive and negative) to the switch panel and the loads both negative and positive directly to the switch panel as well. That’s gotta be right no need for a bus bar 

 

edit: sorry guys this is a stupid amount of questions that can easily be answered with a google search (ignore these last couple posts)... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×