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montypolk

Replaced arch tower light and lost wire in the tower.

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Does any one have any advise on fishing wires in a arch tower 2008 256 ssx? Was replacing light and wires fell through the tower. Tried coat hanger no luck. 

 

Thank you.

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8 minutes ago, montypolk said:

Does any one have any advise on fishing wires in a arch tower 2008 256 ssx? Was replacing light and wires fell through the tower. Tried coat hanger no luck. 

 

Thank you.

Usually there’s a side trim panel that can be removed. If it slid all the way into the gunwale, pull the nearest access/trim panel, cup holder, speaker something like this and reach in there. This can be a real pain, but sometimes it’s right there.

P.S. Most of the vinyl covered trim panels use those onetime plastic clips, barbs, whatever they’re called. These things never seem to come out without breaking in two for me. 

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I recently fished wires through the tower on my 2008 Sunesta, it was a royal PITA.  Mine were behind the kitchen sink.

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On 8/12/2019 at 4:40 PM, montypolk said:

Does any one have any advise on fishing wires in a arch tower 2008 256 ssx? Was replacing light and wires fell through the tower. Tried coat hanger no luck. 

Thank you.

A 2008 256 probably has the same radar arch concept as my 2010 276ssx.  If so, you should have that top center round access panel for the inside of the arch?  If so, I was lucky it had a round panel that you can open to access the inside of the arch. 

gv28zqF.jpg

That left over ⁶wire I found in there.  Either Chaparral factory electrician or previous owner installed it although the latter was a young lady and lost the boat after 40 hours of ownership so I doubt she had anything to do with it.  I personally think this is what the factory uses to run wires and the lighting and simply factory forgot it.

hMaSR2C.jpg

And it came right down the gunhwale where the bottom of the arch sets.  It came down the cooler insert to the right stern side of the wetbar and easy to remove the screws and pop off the panel and look up the radar arch.

tmPVgSh.jpg

 I bet if your boat is similar to mine, you can take off that cooler panel (I think it's a lot of screws all the way around the flange but easy) and get a flashlight and small mirror and look up, you'll probably find your wires sitting there in a clump.  Then you can just hook it with a snake from the bottom and pull it out slowly so you don't damage it.

Reinstalling the wires, though, tie the ends well with electrical tape and fish them with that 18 gauge wire slowly slowly till you get it to the lights.  Cut the wire longer than the distance from the  bottom of the arch and that top access panel so you don't have to stick you hand inside the arch while fishing for that LED wire, only if you have to come in from that panel end.

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I would either get an electricians fish tape or fiberglass rod and put it up or down your tower post and see if you can pull in the wire back in.  Or get a long ball chain from Michaels and toss it down your tower and see if you can fish it out with a magnet and then pull the wire back in.

 https://www.amazon.com/2-30-Stainless-Steel-Chain-Necklaces/dp/B0070F1LX8/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=long+ball+chain&qid=1565709880&s=gateway&sr=8-28

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On 8/12/2019 at 4:48 PM, Curt said:

Usually there’s a side trim panel that can be removed. If it slid all the way into the gunwale, pull the nearest access/trim panel, cup holder, speaker something like this and reach in there. This can be a real pain, but sometimes it’s right there.

P.S. Most of the vinyl covered trim panels use those onetime plastic clips, barbs, whatever they’re called. These things never seem to come out without breaking in two for me. 

If Curts idea works, great. if not...................I am thinking since the wire dropped, that a pile of wire is seating at the bottom of the arch. I would use a snake with a good size hook in it. Send it down to see if you can grab it. If not, get to the bottom of the arch where its bolted to the boat. Pull the wires back to find the end that you lost. Than send the snake UP not down to see it at the top. Tape the end of the wires to the end of the snake and pull the snake up.

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On 8/12/2019 at 4:48 PM, Curt said:

Usually there’s a side trim panel that can be removed. If it slid all the way into the gunwale, pull the nearest access/trim panel, cup holder, speaker something like this and reach in there. This can be a real pain, but sometimes it’s right there.

The arch wire through hole could be also accessible from engine compartment. All depends on a particular boat.

You need to get your head under the arch in the area where the arch is mounted and with your face up look for any holes in a gunwale. The hole could be anywhere from 1 to 2 inches in diameter drilled through the top of the gunwale. There could be more than one hole.

It would be quite hard to aim and snake a fish tape through it going from top of the arch down. The bottom up approch worked much better for me.

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On 8/13/2019 at 10:59 AM, Hatem said:

A 2008 256 probably has the same radar arch concept as my 2010 276ssx.  If so, you should have that top center round access panel for the inside of the arch?  If so, I was lucky it had a round panel that you can open to access the inside of the arch. 

gv28zqF.jpg

That left over ⁶wire I found in there.  Either Chaparral factory electrician or previous owner installed it although the latter was a young lady and lost the boat after 40 hours of ownership so I doubt she had anything to do with it.  I personally think this is what the factory uses to run wires and the lighting and simply factory forgot it.

hMaSR2C.jpg

And it came right down the gunhwale where the bottom of the arch sets.  It came down the cooler insert to the right stern side of the wetbar and easy to remove the screws and pop off the panel and look up the radar arch.

tmPVgSh.jpg

 I bet if your boat is similar to mine, you can take off that cooler panel (I think it's a lot of screws all the way around the flange but easy) and get a flashlight and small mirror and look up, you'll probably find your wires sitting there in a clump.  Then you can just hook it with a snake from the bottom and pull it out slowly so you don't damage it.

Reinstalling the wires, though, tie the ends well with electrical tape and fish them with that 18 gauge wire slowly slowly till you get it to the lights.  Cut the wire longer than the distance from the  bottom of the arch and that top access panel so you don't have to stick you hand inside the arch while fishing for that LED wire, only if you have to come in from that panel end.

That wire is most likely left there on purpose as a pull wire. Many higher end manufacturers do this knowing that future owners will add things and need to run more wires. They do it in radar arches and other conduit running around the boat. The idea is that you connect your new wires and a new pull wire to the existing one and pull them into place. No fishing required and since you pulled a new pull wire, it’s still there for the next time to add wires. 

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15 minutes ago, rjbergen said:

That wire is most likely left there on purpose as a pull wire. Many higher end manufacturers do this knowing that future owners will add things and need to run more wires. They do it in radar arches and other conduit running around the boat. The idea is that you connect your new wires and a new pull wire to the existing one and pull them into place. No fishing required and since you pulled a new pull wire, it’s still there for the next time to add wires. 

Typically there’s a wire left as you point out. Whenever I’m pulling new I always leave another for a future pull. I worked on a boat last year and did what I was supposed to, and left another pull just in case. Wouldn’t you know, the future arrived early and was this year. Found my wire, started pulling and it wouldn’t move. Scratched my head, and then after a bit pulled all the access panels, speakers and cup holders. I tied it off, but didn’t remember. Untied it and then proceeded to pull it straight out from that side. Then realized what I did (yanked it out without attaching anything). Paused, laughed, complained to myself about getting older and then pulled out the fishtape and fiberglass rods. I never tie these off, and have no idea why I did that one time. Live, learn and wonder. LOL.

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Thanks everyone for the Advise. My set up is like Hatem's pictures, very helpful!! I see my wires in the battery switch compartment, but i think I'm going to have to pull my cooler panel to get better access. I did not see an extra wire but will pull one for the future.  Again thanks for the advise very helpfull!!

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22 hours ago, montypolk said:

Thanks everyone for the Advise. My set up is like Hatem's pictures, very helpful!! I see my wires in the battery switch compartment, but i think I'm going to have to pull my cooler panel to get better access. I did not see an extra wire but will pull one for the future.  Again thanks for the advise very helpfull!!

No problem.  I figured your setup is about as close as mine despite the two boats being slightly different. 

Some more pics of where the bottom portside arch lands and the relation of its location vs the cooler.  So good idea by you to remove the cooler eve though you think or saw the wires behind the switch box.  This was you can still access them easier.

7waTim6.jpg

Starboard side requires a bit more paneling stuff to be taken off.

BHts1w3.jpg

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23 hours ago, rjbergen said:

That wire is most likely left there on purpose as a pull wire. Many higher end manufacturers do this knowing that future owners will add things and need to run more wires. They do it in radar arches and other conduit running around the boat. The idea is that you connect your new wires and a new pull wire to the existing one and pull them into place. No fishing required and since you pulled a new pull wire, it’s still there for the next time to add wires. 

Right.   I have a new one I ran from the bilge ALL the way to the anchor locker for when I ran my wires for the windlass.  I snaked it though a bunch of Chaparral clips that are already there for docking light wires etc.  So now I have access to running wires all the way from the bilge to the point of the bow.   Love it. al I did add additional clips of my own since some of the Chaparral ones where wicked small and just enough for whatever wire ran through it already.

But I will be getting inside there, believe it or not, so I can loosen not that bolt you see right there in the middle holding that tub which is actually the bow seating, but a similar setup with laminate I need to grind out to remove my forward ski locker so I can install my bow thruster.  What I end up doing after depends on TBD (To Be Determined) since I have a HUUUUUUGGGEEEEAAAAAG center ski locker, I only use that forward one to store the bow and midship fenders when underway.  But I can always toss them in the center ski locker and still have room for a rhinoceros to get in there and sleep cmfortably.

C7O9OKH.jpg

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