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chris D

Penta DP Frozen Prop

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I have read on this subject here and other  sites.  Does anyone sell a  puller other than  Volvo?  Theirs is good for 150 foot pounds and not for frozen props.

I have seen some homemade, but thought I would try here first.

Thanks! and here is hoping!

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If he is frozen he will break your puller.

Been there done that!

He is going to have to cut it off and replace the hub.

I pull and grease 3-4 times a year.

 

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1 hour ago, jeffk said:

If he is frozen he will break your puller.

Been there done that!

He is going to have to cut it off and replace the hub.

I pull and grease 3-4 times a year.

 

When I bought my boat, it was 4 years old and by the 5th year, props were never greased and were frozen on there.  Bought the tool, had to customize it because the teeth at the end were too big to fit the slots and lock into place, so I grabbed a sawzall and trimmed the 3 teeth by an 1/8" (I think I showed you that before) took 10 minutes then stuck it in, locked nicely and slowly turned the bolt and off came the prop. 

Why would you assume it would definitely break the tool?  That's what it's for and it worked for me.  Props weren't budging.  Trick is to turn the bolt slowly.  Give the tool and the pressure it creates a chance to work not just ratchet it with power ratchet.

Not sure what's in that Florida water but grease them 3 or 4 times a year?  I only do it in the springtime and they slide right off in the fall.  Oh that's right, no winter for you guys down there.

Hey, if he breaks it he breaks it.  Doubt I'll ever need it again since all I've done with it since I bought it is loaned it out.  I grease the living daylights out of the splines and the props slide right out every time. 

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What is with my getting all the good Alphas & props ?  I pull & grease every 5 or 10 years,  O B gets pulled about every 10 years or longer.   both of my little Evinrudes are 1986 and 1999 . Never greased   True I am only in freshwater . Bought them new.  

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Thanks for the fast replies.  In in NJ, so  wee bit far.  I did see the modification of the Volvo tool. Its an 04 with only 140 hours on it.  It was stored in a Boatel fresh to brackish water.  1 season in salt.  I was going to purchase the volvo puller for 194 deer, and  saw the warning of 150 foot pound.  I used a 2x10 and hammer with  penetrating oil to no avail for 1 week.

I saw a video with a hydraulic  puller and steel cables, but I thought I would try here first. 

So its either  buy the volvo tool and modify, or  go  Harbor Freight...

 

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Because my mechanic on my previous boat broke his puller.

He also told me it was not the first time it happened.

As far as greasing 3-4 times, do the math before you comment LOL!

I use my boat 12 months a year, you maybe get 4  and then a day here or there.

Cy...I am very happy for you and you alpha!

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On ‎10‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 8:56 AM, chris D said:

Both nuts are off, its the first one.

20191030_084215.jpg

If you do get the puller, try it first and see if it turns and locks all the way in.  If not, just grind off 1/6" off the top of the teeth and it should fit and lock into the back of the hub.  For some reason, the teeth were too wide on mine and wouldn't turn into that space behind the 3 hub edges.  But maybe my F-5 props have smaller spaces so check it first, it might fit right away.  Then turn the knob slowly like a 1/2 turn and wait a few seconds for that tension to work itself.  Repeat the same thing and eventually you'll see that fist prop start to separate from the back and then you can turn the bolt all the way until you can pull it out by hand.  You should be able to get them both off.

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I have assisted in repairs to 300 hp electric drive motors in industry. Every time we had frozen splined  parts. It was because of .............ORIGINAL ............defective parts. I would question the previous mechanic who ............STRUGGLED ........to remove it .  WAS ORDERED to force it back on to keep production going as soon as possible.

We have a Greenlee hydraulic pipe bender . Beefy.  But once in a while it can not pull the parts apart.  We then decide which causes LESS long term damage.    CUT the shaft with a saw or heat the part while the puller is pulling.  We always do the heat & puller job outside. VERY dangerous when big sharp part LEAP  in a direction bounce off & continue into stuff or people.

I would separate the bottom of the  drive housing and hope to take shaft & prop to a workbench  Grind a groove on both sides that is almost to the splines.   I have found that will remove enough squeezing  pressure so the puller does it easily.

Heat is a major enemy when grinding thick castings. A hose over a drain or outside job.  THe prop is to be wasted.

 

 

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You have no clue as how this applies to a Volvo, 

have assisted in repairs to 300 hp electric drive motors in industry. Every time we had frozen splined  parts. It was because of .............ORIGINAL ............defective parts. I would question the previous mechanic who ............STRUGGLED ........to remove it .  WAS ORDERED to force it back on to keep production going as soon as possible.

Volvos need to be greased more than a Merc or they will freeze. ( Great  opportunity for you says Mercs are better)!

The newer Vp duo props have a different spline alignment and this is not necessary

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Converting straight splined Volvo Duoprops to Helical (spiral) Splines on DPS drives

 

While the Volvo Penta Duoprop DPS or DPS-A drive has straight splines, with the release of the DPS-B drive a few years ago, Volvo Penta changed to a helical or spiral spline system.  With this change, many people have been switching to the DPS-B drive and are left with sets of straight splined F series propellers that will not fit on their new helical splined shafts. This leaves the boat owner with a couple of options as to what to do with their old propellers.  One option is to sell the propellers, the other is to have them rehubbed with helical splined hubs.  If the props you are replacing from the DPS drive (straight splined) are the same pitch as the ones you are putting on the DPS-B (helical splined), having the props rehubbed will save you $800-$1000 per set over buying new props.  This is a service we perform daily. 

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"It took Volvo 50 years to learn how to machine splines ?"

Well they were smart enough to invent the duoprop of which merc pays them a royalty for every one they sell.....there is that.

There is nothing wrong with the splines they just need to be kept well greased.

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Bt Doctor.

Why are people switching drives?

I can understand if you need a new one but why else?

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Lets see how well the Helical Splines hold up to the gorillas POUNDING them on to the shafts.  Another money making design. If a helical prop gets jammed tight ?  NO straight line puller will help.  The new design is really a nut & bolt copy of the nut & bolt design...........Straight gear pullers  ...DO NOT WORK .....on Helical Gear thread designs.

WAAHOO said all the dealers.

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2 hours ago, jeffk said:

"It took Volvo 50 years to learn how to machine splines ?"

Well they were smart enough to invent the duoprop of which merc pays them a royalty for every one they sell.....there is that.

There is nothing wrong with the splines they just need to be kept well greased.

If I'm not mistaken, they were also the first to come out with the joystick technology with the IPS system as well as the the first to introduce the IPS pod drive.  They've been quite the pioneers in new boating technology.

2 hours ago, jeffk said:

Bt Doctor.

Why are people switching drives?

I can understand if you need a new one but why else?

I'd like to know how the helical splines create more bite like Volvo claims.  It would be interesting to see the data they have behind that and how it's achieved.  Perhaps they act as threads?  But still, not sure how that would bite better.  

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Try using Kroil Penetrating oil. Let it set for 2 hours, breaks bonds due to rust, corrosion, contamination, or compression and lubricates to loosen frozen metal parts.

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As the mechanical geezers would do...………..CAREFULLY    …………. Heat & beat it.  It is the manual version of a electrical Impact tool.   Has far better control of the hitting forces compared to most impact tools.  

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