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VAboater

amp wiring question

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Ho Ho Ho.  I hope all is well and everyone got what they wanted for Christmas.  

I did not, so it is time to go shopping at Crutchfield.  

I am planning on adding a JL 600/6 amp to the boat.  

My question is, if I connect the amp directly to the battery, will it draw power down from the battery when the radio / amp is not "On".  

In other words, if the amp is not getting the on signal from the blue 12V from the head unit, will it draw any power from the battery?   - or do I have to run the connection through the Battery Switch and manually turn it off.  

I have had a cheap 2 channel / lower watt amp directly attached to the battery for the last 3-4 years that the dealer installed.  I was planning to just swap out amps (with upgraded wiring, channels and power).  I have not had any draw on the battery issues with the current set up so I suspect it will be ok.  

 

I'm planning on keeping a single battery set up for simplicity sake (at least to start with).  If I don't run the radio with the boat off for more than 5 minutes to switch out skiers, etc.. any issues expected?

  

thanks in advance.

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1 hour ago, VAboater said:

My question is, if I connect the amp directly to the battery, will it draw power down from the battery when the radio / amp is not "On"

I do not suggest wiring amps direct to a battery. Best to wire through a main ON/OFF battery switch with proper circuit protection just after the switch.  

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Wire to switch, amp is probably analog for settings so no programmingto worry about, IDK if mine got remote wire wet and bridged that terminal to the battery wire but after 1st trip my battery was dead, only thing was amp and wire going to my main switch.  Switch was off so something wiped out my battery and i am guessing it wasnt the switch.

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12 hours ago, Was_Wylie_Tunes said:

I do not suggest wiring amps direct to a battery. Best to wire through a main ON/OFF battery switch with proper circuit protection just after the switch.  

Yes to above. But I would call JL and/or look at the specs. I am over thinking this, but it may draw something. More like in the milli-amp range which is nothing to worry about. I called Fusion on my amp and had the same question. They told me it used a solid state relay so it pulled nothing.

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2 hours ago, Iggy said:

Yes to above. But I would call JL and/or look at the specs. I am over thinking this, but it may draw something. More like in the milli-amp range which is nothing to worry about. I called Fusion on my amp and had the same question. They told me it used a solid state relay so it pulled nothing.

There is a relay in the amp, that is why you run the remote wire from HU.  It SHOULDN'T draw anything, but using my boat as an example stuff can happen.  Your settings should all be analog so no need to worry about losing memory, and if your battery switch can take it run the switch. 

I am setting up dual batteries as soon as i get a 2nd tray and time where i can do it because i had to buy a battery at west marine since I couldnt get a jump start and had wife and kids all loaded and boat launched (so took the 20 min detour) I figure why waste a battery and now i should never get stranded.

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thanks for input.  I will probably run directly to the battery until I add a second battery with the next project.  I can only manage one project at a time or else they take off in scope and cost.  

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1 hour ago, VAboater said:

thanks for input.  I will probably run directly to the battery until I add a second battery with the next project.  I can only manage one project at a time or else they take off in scope and cost.  

Run to switch (should be able to take it), unless amp has some memory based features (ie bluetooth) more than likely no need to keep power to it.   After switch put fuse/breaker.   No extra cost then if you go to dual batteries you just need to swap switch, run ground and new + from new battery.  Probably 15 mins more work to help save risk of parasitic draw.

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Thanks for help.  I have the new amp wired, but I am going to go ahead and add a second battery.  Once I took down everything I needed to access the battery switch I figured I might as well go ahead and change it out.  

Does anyone here use the Blue Sea 5511e dual circuit plus switch.  The dual circuits are typically isolated (Off/On/Combine), but can be combined to start the engine if needed.  Basically I am wondering how does the battery running the house goods get recharged.  Do you have to purchase /use the ACR (charge relay)??  Or do you have to put the battery switch on combination??

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The 5511 DCP switch is best when used in conjunction with an auto combining relay, like the 7610. For a more basic setup, but more manual, then use the basic OFF/1/2/BOTH like the 9001. 

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11 hours ago, VAboater said:

Thanks for help.  I have the new amp wired, but I am going to go ahead and add a second battery.  Once I took down everything I needed to access the battery switch I figured I might as well go ahead and change it out.  

Does anyone here use the Blue Sea 5511e dual circuit plus switch.  The dual circuits are typically isolated (Off/On/Combine), but can be combined to start the engine if needed.  Basically I am wondering how does the battery running the house goods get recharged.  Do you have to purchase /use the ACR (charge relay)??  Or do you have to put the battery switch on combination??

Yes, you will need a ACR/battery combiner. OR you set the switch to combine when the engine is running. 

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Caution about any switching the BIG master switches while the engine is still running...................Some boats & old new stock HAVE switches that BREAK the battery circuit .....FULLY.... before connecting the battery to the engine alternator.   CAN BE VERY DAMAGING to the  equipment turned on already.    Only buy & use .........Battery switches that MAKE BEFORE BREAK   battery switches.  

A quick chech of 2 brands has them stating they sell MAKE BEFORE BREAK.  Check carefully always.

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My boat has the factory dual battery setup. It uses the Blue Seas 6007 switch and a Blue Seas ACR.  The 6007 has battery 1,2, or both.  There is only 1 load connection so everything runs off the selected battery. If you already a battery switch you could install the 6007 and not have to rewire the load side. 

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There is a wire on the amp "remote on" that hooks up to your head unit.  When the head unit comes on, it will turn the amp on.  If the head unit is off, there will be no draw on your battery from your amp.  You should run the amp directly from your battery with the correct wiring size.  They draw a lot of amperage, especially if you are running a bass speaker.  I also would not run an amp unless you have a second battery.  I'd hate to be listening to tunes and then you are not able to start your boat.  

Just my 2 cents.

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just a follow up note.  

I got the JL 600/6 installed.  I did end up switching to a dual battery set up with the Blue Sea 9001.  thanks for suggestions.  

I have added a new pair of JL 7.7's in the cockpit.  I still have to tune the system, but what I am struck with is how "clean" the music sounds.

looking forward to launch day. 

 

 

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