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4xFSChamp

2017 Volvo 6.0L 380hp engine. ANY INFO

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Hey everyone.  I'm selling my 2011 244 to go bigger.  I'm looking at a 2017 284 that has the Volvo 380hp 6.0L  has there been any horror stories with these engine?

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Volvo took the General Motors LS platform that included variable valve timing and 6 bolt main bearings and stroked a 350 out to 366 cubic inches. Lighter than the old cast iron 8.1 big block, and because the heads and block are aluminum it comes standard with closed loop cooling. The bottom end of these engines have been pushed to well over 1,000 hp in race applications, and the Volvo version comes in a 430 hp variant. To get there Volvo took the 380, and went with bigger valves, enlarged intake runners, cam swap, altered valve timing and a performance fuel map.

These engines are a bit more complicated than a tried and true conventional V-8 as variable valve timing is mechanical, controlled by the ECM. To get the WOT horse power, the max RPM has been pushed upward toward 6,000 which will impact longevity. Beyond that not much bad to say.

The pluses include decreased weight, new aluminum-clad exhaust system components that provide for better corrosion protection, solid lower end with 6 bolt main bearings and steel crankshaft, and variable valve timing benefits to include increased fuel economy at cruise, and increased max horsepower at WOT.   W

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16 hours ago, 4xFSChamp said:

Hey everyone.  I'm selling my 2011 244 to go bigger.  I'm looking at a 2017 284 that has the Volvo 380hp 6.0L  has there been any horror stories with these engine?

I like the 284 Sunesta. Haven't experience any real issues with the 6.0L and newer 6.2L engines. 

Only gripes I have are when Volvo brought out their DPS-A drives, the first thing I noticed was the very crude engagement when shifting into forward or reverse compared to the older DP-SM drives. Volvo did this apparently in an effort to make the drive more robust. The 2005 and newer style MerCruiser Bravo in my experience are much smoother than the Volvo DPS-A and later DPS-B drives. That 2017 would probably have the DPS-B drive but both the A and B shift the same, which is to say quite abruptly. 

On a 25' boat model, the throttle may be a little twitchy for some given the power and torque curves vs MerCruiser big block product. Exhaust noise is a little louder than MerCruiser too, but I don't know you'll have any performance issues. I really like those engines. Superior hole shot and fuel economy, coupled with seemingly readily available power anywhere below wide open throttle vs 496/502.

Volvo had a bulletin for the heat exchanger on some of the early 2012+ V8-380 / 430 engines but I don't think you'll be affected and wasn't a deal breaker anyway. In North America, Volvo recommends their 10w40 full synthetic engine oil.

6.0L V8-380 and V8-430 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=volvo+penta+launch+of+6.2L&ru=%2fsearch%3fq%3dvolvo%2bpenta%2blaunch%2bof%2b6.2L%26cvid%3d0051b02509fd4aeca67ebd1d13ff045c%26FORM%3dANAB01%26PC%3dU531&view=detail&mid=3C2DE57F9F2FC1ABF0D03C2DE57F9F2FC1ABF0D0&&mmscn=vwrc&FORM=VDRVRV

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=volvo+v8-380+vs+mercruiser+8.2L&&view=detail&mid=70A44095CF683103C14F70A44095CF683103C14F&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3Dvolvo%2Bv8-380%2Bvs%2Bmercruiser%2B8.2L%26FORM%3DHDRSC3

 

Is there a chance the engine might actually be the 6.2L V8-380 with direct fuel injection? Heat exchanger design is different along with a few other external changes vs the earlier 6.0L version.

Gen V 6.2L V8-350, V8-380 and V8-430 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=volvo+penta+launch+of+6.2L&cvid=0051b02509fd4aeca67ebd1d13ff045c&PC=U531&ru=%2fsearch%3fq%3dvolvo%2bpenta%2blaunch%2bof%2b6.2L%26cvid%3d0051b02509fd4aeca67ebd1d13ff045c%26FORM%3dANAB01%26PC%3dU531&view=detail&mmscn=vwrc&mid=EB9489903EDCF7D7C5A6EB9489903EDCF7D7C5A6&FORM=WRVORC

 

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It's definitely the 6.0L.  Engine is tagged 6.0 and the computer verified.  It's most likely an early 2017 boat before they put the 6.2L out there.  Found an issue with the plug wires we're assuming got hot as they melted on the inside to stick to the plug itself.  There were overheat codes in the computer with a high temp of 197* @ 733rpm.  So I'm assuming it went into failsafe and the cause was the raw water pump failed (typical)  The engine is under warranty until mid 2022 but don't want to start out with a problem

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Melted plug wire boots would be a huge red flag for me on an aluminum head engine. Also, extended warranty does not cover most overheating events.  The 197 degree is when the ecm set the alarm condition, but I do not believe the histogram saves the highest temperature reached unless Volvo changed their firmware in the last couple years. W

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11 minutes ago, Wingnut said:

Melted plug wire boots would be a huge red flag for me on an aluminum head engine. Also, extended warranty does not cover most overheating events.  The 197 degree is when the ecm set the alarm condition, but I do not believe the histogram saves the highest temperature reached unless Volvo changed their firmware in the last couple years. W

I guess it's hard to describe.  They weren't melted like obvious by look.  The were stuck to the plug on the inside making it hard to impossible to remove.  After pulling 2 off the inside of the wires were damaged.  I guess best I can explain.  Engine has 49hrs.  The overheat was 37hrs.

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That's much less disconcerting. They do tend to act like they are glued on at times. I have a tool that reaches in and pulls on the very base of the boot. I also spray the boot interiors with silicone during reassembly.   W

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On ‎2‎/‎25‎/‎2020 at 1:04 PM, 4xFSChamp said:

I guess it's hard to describe.  They weren't melted like obvious by look.  The were stuck to the plug on the inside making it hard to impossible to remove.  After pulling 2 off the inside of the wires were damaged.  I guess best I can explain.  Engine has 49hrs.  The overheat was 37hrs.

Yeah that's a tough decision to make, for sure.  Especially if the 284 is priced nicely and enticing.  But it is hard to start out putting so much $ for something that is practically brand new but has had an overheating issue already, and an aluminum block/heads etc. to boot.  Maybe get someone super qualified to run their own test on it which could include a compression test along with even a more extensive dissecting, so to speak; if allowed, of course.  Then go from there.  But aside from that, the reviews on the 6.0L/6/2L are nothing but outstanding from everything I've read and heard.  So that's a positive, for sure.

On ‎2‎/‎25‎/‎2020 at 9:04 AM, Shepherd1 said:

I like the 284 Sunesta. Haven't experience any real issues with the 6.0L and newer 6.2L engines. 

Only gripes I have are when Volvo brought out their DPS-A drives, the first thing I noticed was the very crude engagement when shifting into forward or reverse compared to the older DP-SM drives. Volvo did this apparently in an effort to make the drive more robust. The 2005 and newer style MerCruiser Bravo in my experience are much smoother than the Volvo DPS-A and later DPS-B drives. That 2017 would probably have the DPS-B drive but both the A and B shift the same, which is to say quite abruptly. 

On a 25' boat model, the throttle may be a little twitchy for some given the power and torque curves vs MerCruiser big block product. Exhaust noise is a little louder than MerCruiser too, but I don't know you'll have any performance issues. I really like those engines. Superior hole shot and fuel economy, coupled with seemingly readily available power anywhere below wide open throttle vs 496/502.

Volvo had a bulletin for the heat exchanger on some of the early 2012+ V8-380 / 430 engines but I don't think you'll be affected and wasn't a deal breaker anyway. In North America, Volvo recommends their 10w40 full synthetic engine oil.

Interesting observation and very true, from on-hands experience.  The B-III in my buddy's Sea Ray I putted around in was quite impressive when it came to the lack of thumping while shifting out of neutral into either direction.  On my DPS-A, the trick is to learn how to do it to avoid that thumping as much as possible.  It's all in the speed and smoothness of how you push that throttle out of N and into gear.  It's impossible to describe in words or even show it first hand since it's all about the feel.  But once you get the hang of it, you can minimize that thump to an almost fluid transition.  It took me a little while, but not too long since once I figured it out, it became 2nd nature and works great almost all the time.  I say "almost" simply because you run into situation where you either get complacent, are distracted or in a tough situation where you just need to shift fast to get out of a bad situation and you don't do it.  I find that to be mostly at the dock when trying to back into the slip, lol.  Other than that, once you get a hang of it, it's golden, like Land O' Lakes. :) 

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Thanks for the help on this everyone.  I decided to walk away from this boat.  Put my deposit on a 2017 287 SSX.  Planning on having it transported to me next week!  

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21 hours ago, 4xFSChamp said:

Thanks for the help on this everyone.  I decided to walk away from this boat.  Put my deposit on a 2017 287 SSX.  Planning on having it transported to me next week!  

Congratulation! Send Pictures when you can!

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1 hour ago, Senior said:

Congratulation! Send Pictures when you can!

I've never had luck posting pics on this site.  any pointers lol

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On 3/11/2020 at 3:47 PM, Senior said:

most people insert a web URL and it pulls the picture in.

 

 

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Are you right clicking on the thumbnail and pasting the link that your computer can copy, or are you left clicking on the thumbnail and copying the link that Imgur provides?

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