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rmortime

2006 Chaparral 276 SSI Purchase

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Good Afternoon everyone,

New here and looking to purchase my first Chaparral. I have under contract a 2006 276 SSI. It was a salt water boat but has been on freshwater the past 3 years. Exhaust manifold, risers, Trim senders, U-joint, steering actuator and fuel pumps have all been replaced since December. During sea trials there were unfortunately some issues noted. I was unable to attend the trial due to being 500 miles away. I have detailed the issues below:

  1. Poor engine performance - When full throttle was applied the boat would not come up in RPMs and would bog down. After multiple attempts and leaving the throttle at full the boat eventually increased in RPMs and would come up to speed. The engine struggled coming up to full RPMs (4100rpm).
  2. Engine squealing - Engine exhibited loud squealing noise from the serpentine belt or associated pulleys while running .
  3. Numerous helm gauges inoperable - Fuel gauge not working, stbd trim tab and outdrive trim gauges work intermittently. 
  4. Engine Compartment Lift Hatch Actuator failing - During engine compartment hatch operations (lift and lower) the lifting actuator/piston exhibited significant loud grinding noise.

Now my questions for you all:

  1. Poor engine performance - The boat has the Volvo Penta 8.1L GI engine. Has anyone encounter this issue or know if this is a known throttle/RPM issue? I suspect it is a fuel/air issue and likely a sticky throttle body valve but not totally sure.  Does anyone one know the model number or know what GI model is it (A-X)?
  2. Engine squealing - What are likely causes? I am not sure what pulleys runs off the belt and don't have a engine drawing.  
  3. Engine Compartment Lift Hatch Actuator failing - Anyone have a PN or rough guess on cost or rough hourly rate of a service department? I can replace this on my own and am not overly concerned. 

Thanks everyone for the help. I appreciate it!

 

v/r,

Ryan M

 

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1. If it's been setting a while it's going to need a tune up.  A distributor cap and button as well as a new fuel filter would be a good start.  Also have the fuel checked to ensure it's good.

2.  I'm guessing bad idler or tensioner pulley is causing the squealing.  My Volvo had a bad idler at only 36 hours.

3.  Sorry I don't know anything about lift actuator, but Cecil Marine should be able to help with that.

 

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I would pass on that performance alone.  This week ?  a lot of 8.1 engines feeling sick lately.

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The 8.1 is notorious for water reversion. If the exhaust manifolds were recently replaced, that tells me the boat had a water reversion event. I think a full compression and leak down test is in order if you are still considering this boat. You could just as easuly be down a cylinder or 2, as it could be a fuel problem.

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Thanks everyone. I appreciate the information.

The exhaust manifold and risers were done as part of prep to sell the boat. Work was done by Chicago Yacht Works. I just learned they had not done any test on the boat to verify their work on the manifolds and risers, which is concerning.

The boat was able to get up to 4100 RPM eventually, if there is a cylinder or two compromised I don't think this would be the case and/or there would be significant vibration. 

How could a water reversion event cause bogging at WOT and sluggish response/hesitation?

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I bet your compression checks reveal a WEAK ENGINE.  It is / could be worn out cylinders. Rare But the symptom fits that condition.

First check is the props & drive gear ratio. Could be junk props put on just for selling the boat. So many things to really check out on a sick running boat. 

All those parts since December ????  The boat was RUN INTO THE GROUND. I would pass on it. 

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I have all the service records for the past two years and no props/drives were changed. Surveyor inspected props during land survey and they were good as well. Owner has been overseas and still is so I know he wasn't doing any work on his own. Boat ran well last season prior to being professionally stored for the winter. It was a florida boat originally but was moved to Chicago and has been in freshwater for the past couple years.

The price right now the seller accepted is $33.5k, boat has 350hr. Given the issues at what price point would be appropriate to accept the performance risk? I was thinking to reduce the offer based on findings and performance to $30k to cover cost to resolve the problem.  

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40 minutes ago, rmortime said:

I have all the service records for the past two years and no props/drives were changed. Surveyor inspected props during land survey and they were good as well. Owner has been overseas and still is so I know he wasn't doing any work on his own. Boat ran well last season prior to being professionally stored for the winter. It was a florida boat originally but was moved to Chicago and has been in freshwater for the past couple years.

The price right now the seller accepted is $33.5k, boat has 350hr. Given the issues at what price point would be appropriate to accept the performance risk? I was thinking to reduce the offer based on findings and performance to $30k to cover cost to resolve the problem.  

I would tell the owner that the offer of $33.5k is contingent on the engine performing properly.  Let the owner pay an mechanic to fix it.  That way if it is something major like water intrusion into the engine you're not on the hook for it.

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5 hours ago, rmortime said:

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the information.

The exhaust manifold and risers were done as part of prep to sell the boat. Work was done by Chicago Yacht Works. I just learned they had not done any test on the boat to verify their work on the manifolds and risers, which is concerning.

The boat was able to get up to 4100 RPM eventually, if there is a cylinder or two compromised I don't think this would be the case and/or there would be significant vibration. 

How could a water reversion event cause bogging at WOT and sluggish response/hesitation?

Easily...my boat was only making 3400 rpms and 40 mph at wide open throttle and sounded good...after taking ownership, I am now doing a top end rebuild because I was down two cylinders (30 psi each).

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I like the idea of making it contingent on proper performance.   if that engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced, i dont think 3500 will cover it.  I have 410 hours on my Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi-G, no performance issues at all.   I did have some squealing issues this spring, I replaced the tensioner and idler pulley(I got them from rockauto, they cross reference to a 2006 chevy 2500 with the 8.1, of course).

Cecils has the motor hatch lift, but not cheap:

   http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/actuator-7-inch-lift-40-00010-in-stock-ready-to-ship/

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On 6/11/2020 at 4:32 PM, rreale said:

I like the idea of making it contingent on proper performance.   if that engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced, i dont think 3500 will cover it.  I have 410 hours on my Volvo Penta 8.1 Gi-G, no performance issues at all.   I did have some squealing issues this spring, I replaced the tensioner and idler pulley(I got them from rockauto, they cross reference to a 2006 chevy 2500 with the 8.1, of course).

Cecils has the motor hatch lift, but not cheap:

   http://www.cecilmarineonline.com/actuator-7-inch-lift-40-00010-in-stock-ready-to-ship/

All I can find is that that its an 8.1L Gi but do not know if its a Gi -A,B,C....

Can't find any info on the Chaparral brocures or their website...any idea how to find out or what the difference between letters are?

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UPDATE: I spoke with a Hoffmasters Marina here in Va who specialize in Chaps and Cobolts. They said its likely just a tune up but they highly recommended a compression test prior to moving fwd with the purchase. If compression checks out than it is an easy fix but replacing an 8.1L will run ~$17k, the block alone is $11k.

So after that conversation I set out on a crusade to get a compression test done ASAP. Unfortunately, I found out that the service center at the Chicago Yacht Works marina (where the boat is located at) is backlogged until late July and couldn't look at anything on the boat until then. I like the contingent offer idea @Dan02gt mentioned but the owner, who is oveseas, doesn't want to spend a nickel more and with the marina service center backlogged it just wasn't viable. Apparently, due to covid and the marina just opening up they are slammed pulling all the boats out of winter storage for slip holders. This timeline obviously wasn't acceptable to me and somehow I managed to talk the service center (via email - b/c they aren't opened yet b/c they are non-essential) into allowing an outside mechanic come in (against their policies) and run diagnostics. After calling over 25 mechanic shops in the Chicago and greater chicago area (including Wisconsin, Indiana and Michigan) I eventually found a mobile mechanic dropping off a boat in Chicago on Friday afternoon and was able to swing by afterwards to perform a compression and fuel pressure test. All the other marine service centers and mobile mechanics had a similar backlogs to Chicago Yacht Works.

ALL cylinders held and checked out at 170 psi during a cold compression test! Both fuel rails pressure were good as well! He said the plugs were absolutely horrible and needed changed and it was likely the issue, if not that than likely a fuel injector. His experience with the 8.1L is that the fuel injectors are often the culprit. Last night my renegotiated offer price at $30k was accept and paperwork signed. Some headaches mainly caused by Covid, horrible communication by Chicago Yacht Works and the owner being overseas but i'm pretty happy with the end results. I'll be more happy once I'm on the water! The boat will be transported to Hoffmasters Marina for a tune-up/fix the RPM issues, fix the squealing, fix the fuel gauge and get an interior detail. I'll replace the lift actuator myself.

NEXT Questions WRT Upgrades:

What are the best upgrades for this boat I should consider?

  1. Upgrade stereo
  2. Interior and underwater lightening
  3. Seadeck flooring
  4. Others alternatives I'm considering but am looking for details
    1. Is there a swim platform grill available?
    2. Has anyone removed or lowered the stern sun lounger grab bar? Its above the cushion and seems to high to lounge or sit on it comfortably. 

Thank you everyone for the advice and recommendations. 

Ryan

 

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if you have a 2006 chaparral with the Volvo Penta 8.1 and its 375 hp, its most likely the Gi-G.   If you have the ENGINE serial number, go to this site and it will tell you your engine:

https://www.volvopenta.com/industrialoffroad/en-en/parts-service/your-engine/manuals---handbooks.html

 

5 years ago my compression was between 160 and 165 on a WARM engine.   the boat had 212 hours on it. 

I would get your boat up and running and seaworthy before thinking about upgrades.   Most marinas near me are backed up due to the virus shutting them down in March and April.   Getting any work done may require a long wait time.

 

good luck

 

 

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1 hour ago, rreale said:

if you have a 2006 chaparral with the Volvo Penta 8.1 and its 375 hp, its most likely the Gi-G.   If you have the ENGINE serial number, go to this site and it will tell you your engine:

https://www.volvopenta.com/industrialoffroad/en-en/parts-service/your-engine/manuals---handbooks.html

 

5 years ago my compression was between 160 and 165 on a WARM engine.   the boat had 212 hours on it. 

I would get your boat up and running and seaworthy before thinking about upgrades.   Most marinas near me are backed up due to the virus shutting them down in March and April.   Getting any work done may require a long wait time.

 

good luck

 

 

Thanks @rreale. Yeah, this would be a mid-summer or winter upgrade. I'm not planning to do it right away. I want to get on the water ASAP. I'm definitely not doing anything that may jeopardize being on the Potomac during the 4th of July. Nothing better than capital fireworks and nighttime monuments on the water. 

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