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MonkeySeaII

Drive issue

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started having an issue with my B3.  I put it in gear, I can hear the engine go into gear but there is a hesitation before the prop engages.  Would this be a cable adjustment?

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Start with that.

Worst case it’s a cone clutch issue.

I’m assuming you’re using the correct drive lube.

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My bet is the cone clutch for sure. That is the classic symptom. The one thing is, once it does finally get into gear it won't slip out. When you take it apart i'll guarantee you will find pitting on the upper gear set as well. The thrust washer on the double roller bearing will also probably be worn causing loose preload on the bearings...Pretty typical...  If you want it perfect prepare for a can of worms! If you want a quick fix you can flip the cone so the worn side is on the reverse gear and also rough it up with sandpaper or lapping compound. Polish up the mating surface in the gear. But they are only $350 to replace (no labor). If the gears look good and the brass bump rings are not worn just throw a clutch at it and go. You only have to remove the input shaft, rear and top cover once the drive is off. Make sure to line up the + and - on the brass bump rings at the center of the rear of the drive when re assembling. It only takes one special tool to get the input shaft retainer nut off. It's not an expensive tool. If it's an x drive you need a spanner like the b1 xr. Once the drive is off, swapping out a cone clutch is an hour max. Now if you are crazy particular like me a cone clutch pending on how the clutch mates to the gear floor can slightly change the lash. Not many even check the lash for a quick clutch swap but just saying... If you need a gear set the lash needs to completely be re checked/shimmed. I rebuilt my b3 upper and lower over the winter. Lots of $ in special tooling but i do a lot of drive work.

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What can I expect to pay to have the clutch replaced?  I don't have the time or tools to tackle this one.

 

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4 hours ago, MonkeySeaII said:

What can I expect to pay to have the clutch replaced?  I don't have the time or tools to tackle this one.

 

If the cone has failed, then particulate has been distributed throughout the drive to include the gear teeth faces and bearing surfaces. Best to disassemble, clean, inspect, and reseal the entire drive. 3 grand should do it unless they find additional damage. How do you know the cone clutch is bad? Sometimes it can be a bent shifter fork.  W

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so just got a call that my gear lube was burnt and once they changed it, the drive shifts fine.  Not sure why my drive would get so hot though?  I changed it when I winterized.  I haven't done any full throttle runs this season.  Maybe I had air in the drive???

Edit:  looked at my records and the same shop removed and serviced my drive last September.  Wonder if they didn't use the correct lube?  Although they are a Mercruiser dealership.  

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picked up the boot, service mgr said everything is good.  I launched and its exactly the same.  2 second delay from shift to engagement of the prop.  Only in fwd.  Reverse is fine

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another update:  Last wknd I took the boat out for a little ride.  First shift into fwd out of the slip was totally normal as were the 1st few shifts.  I noticed after running for a while, I detected a very slight burning oil smell.  Then when hot, the shift was hesitating again.  I'm starting to think the shop is using a cheaper alternative gear lube to the Merc HP lube.  Seems like as it warms up, the viscosity changes and the shifting is affected.

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4 hours ago, MonkeySeaII said:

another update:  Last wknd I took the boat out for a little ride.  First shift into fwd out of the slip was totally normal as were the 1st few shifts.  I noticed after running for a while, I detected a very slight burning oil smell.  Then when hot, the shift was hesitating again.  I'm starting to think the shop is using a cheaper alternative gear lube to the Merc HP lube.  Seems like as it warms up, the viscosity changes and the shifting is affected.

Some places here got talked into the Amsoil Synthetic marine gear oil as it met the GL-5 spec. Trouble is there is no friction modifier and the cone clutches never experience solid lock-up. Not a lubricity break-down issue, just the stuff is too slick. Same thing happens if you use the Merc premium lube and not the high performance lube as the premium is only suitable in an Alpha. If the fluid is black, get it out of there.  W

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16 hours ago, Wingnut said:

Some places here got talked into the Amsoil Synthetic marine gear oil as it met the GL-5 spec. Trouble is there is no friction modifier and the cone clutches never experience solid lock-up. Not a lubricity break-down issue, just the stuff is too slick. Same thing happens if you use the Merc premium lube and not the high performance lube as the premium is only suitable in an Alpha. If the fluid is black, get it out of there.  W

thanks Wing, my plan is to pull the boat next week and change the lube myself!

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I took the boat back to the dealer and said they didn't fix the problem.  They insist they use only Merc HP Lube and it is green. I stuck my finger in the bottle!  They changed the lube again and said it smelled burnt.  So I installed a Simrek drive shower last week.  So far, so good.  Last 2 wknds everything has shifted fine.  The mechanic also said he adjusted the shift cable.  So fingers crossed that everything is OK inside my drive!  

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If you Google it you can see it.  Its a very easy to install unit that cools the upper gear case.  The Bravo 3 runs very hot and this keeps it cooled

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Lighthouse Harbor.  They gave always been very good and helpful.  Capri would never even call me back cause I didn't buy my boat from them

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Ok. I stopped in down there a while back and it was like they didn't want to be bothered. They do have a large room of NOS Parts though.

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Monkey

What is generating all that heat ? Heat is only generated by mechanical friction .

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11 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Monkey

What is generating all that heat ? Heat is only generated by mechanical friction .

I'm told the Bravo 3 normally runs hot.  Much hotter than other drives.  The dealer told me they had similar issues with their Bravo 3 powered parasail boat and the shower solved it.  My guess is they are not truly using genuine Merc HP lube OR, something is starting to go on my drive.  But I normally change my own fluid every Fall.  However, last Fall I had the dealer service my drive and now this season the hesitation developed.  So we'll see how things go now with the drive shower.  Then I'll change the fluid myself next month.

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12 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

Monkey

What is generating all that heat ? Heat is only generated by mechanical friction .

And all the 496 engine exhaust gasses passing through the drive. I'm thinking that may add to the heat.  W

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Update:  the drive was shifting fine for a few weeks but is back to hesitating.  After doing some research, I'm pretty confident it's the cone clutch slipping which is generating heat and burning the gear lube.  Now I have to try to find a GOOD mechanic to fix my drive.  Unfortunately this is a bit out of my wheel house with the specialized tools and knowledge required.  The shops around our local lake don't seem to want to deal with anything other than simple maintenance.  This sucks!

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We have Brewerton boat yard up just north of Syracuse.  The do a good job. Or take it down to Wingnut.⁰

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On 8/25/2020 at 8:49 AM, Wingnut said:

And all the 496 engine exhaust gasses passing through the drive. I'm thinking that may add to the heat.  W

Wingnut, Is this common for small blocks too? Does a 377 MAG put a lot of heat through the drive too? Just curious...Thanks!

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