Jump to content

*Fixed* Intermittent shut down/ no start while operating


Recommended Posts

The suspect: 2011 267 SSX 377mag 6.2L Engine ID 1A621151

I've been experiencing an intermittent engine shut down while operating at either idle speed and/or cruise speed. The only consistency with the failure is it typically occurs after 15-20 minutes of operation, once took as long as an hour (of heavy use) to occur. Twice I have a noticed a bucking/ hesitation, literally seconds before shut down, but only twice. Furthermore, the condition does not seem to represent itself while only idling in my slip, as I've left it running at idle and high idle twice for 30 minutes each session with no issues. When it does shut down the boat has restarted immediately twice, however, typically it takes another 20-30 minutes to restart. Boat runs like a top when it does run! Not once have I heard any alarms and there's no info on the data display for active failures. I am awaiting a marine tech to connect a scan tool to see if the PCM is storing anything? Do boats log run cycles so a tech could obverse data points that may be dropping off when the boat fails- I haven't been able to get a straight answer on this? The boat has been out on the water operating flawlessly for the last month of continuous use until this has happened! Marinas here in NH are so busy I'm afraid I could be out of commission for a while now, especially with how intermittent this issue is! Thank you all in advance for any and all help!

What I've tried: 

- Swapped fuel relay with known good relay while not starting- no change.

- Installed an ignition control module (only the ICM, coil visually appeared to be in good condition- no signs of cracks or arcing), one time while not starting I tapped the ICM and it restarted immediately. However the next day that proved to not be the fix. 

- Full ignition tune up, cap rotor plugs wires installed last season.

- IAC replaced last season due to failure.

- New fuel filter in cool fuel module, but did not replace the discs because I found out about these after installing the fuel filter. After replacement I filled tank with 40gal of fresh fuel with marine 360 for peace of mind. Furthermore, the history I have on the boat, the fuel module TSB for paint delamination (Bulletin # 2016-01) has been completed. But now I've discovered TSB #2009-01 for replacement of the Gen III fuel module but it doesn't describe a run condition that would be present? I'd always thought a fuel pump either works or doesn't? 

- And finally, I've checked and rechecked every single connector/ ground inside the engine bay. 

-Johhny

Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s a odd one. I think I would get a fuel pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. If you can check it in one of the instances where it has shut off and doesn’t want to restart that would be best. That way you can eliminate fuel and move on to spark. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to basic trouble shooting procedure.

First determine if you ALWAYS HAVE a GREAT spark at more than 1 spark plug.  Yes or no ?

Then do the same with checking for wet spark plugs . Cranking with wide open throttle to soak the plugs. Yes or no ?

Please do not post back nothing is working.  Get lucky.    

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hammering out the basics has been an on going issue because if I don’t move fast enough the boat runs problem free until the next random time I can catch it and continue on diagnosing. For example, I’m hesitant to say the boat has good spark because upon testing (when in presumed no start condition) the engine restarted. So thats still a work in progress. 
Would getting this boat hooked up to scanner yield me any benefits if I never recieved any alarms? Are run cylces stored in history and would that provide any info that could shine light on the failure? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was able to test for fuel and spark during the no start condition. Found the fuel pressure spot on 43psi and no spark. By the time I got my multimeter out to run through the no spark flow chart it started back up. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

If there is any way to get a computer read out of the stopping codes ?  Pray it shows up something.

If no codes show ?  Might be a good thing. It could mean a loose connection in the ignition RUNNING circuits onl as what to check next.

Check out another poster on this page……………..Engine stalls while running...………...very similar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The first step for me would be to eliminate the various interlocks and run the engine direct from it's own "hot wire". Locate the gang plug atop the engine (the one encased in rubber and with a hose clamp holding the half's together.).  Locate pin #5 purple wire, and splice a temporary hot into that wire. Now your ignition is hot. Crank and run the boat and see if the problem is still there. If not, then your issue is with the kill switch, ignition switch, and/or boat wiring harness, or even a shorted gauge. If the problem is still there, then the issue is with the actual engine harness, ignition module, coil, fuel pump, or something else related to the actual engine itself. W

Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Wingnut said:

The first step for me would be to eliminate the various interlocks and run the engine direct from it's own "hot wire". Locate the gang plug atop the engine (the one encased in rubber and with a hose clamp holding the half's together.).  Locate pin #5 purple wire, and splice a temporary hot into that wire. Now your ignition is hot. Crank and run the boat and see if the problem is still there. If not, then your issue is with the kill switch, ignition switch, and/or boat wiring harness, or even a shorted gauge. If the problem is still there, then the issue is with the actual engine harness, ignition module, coil, fuel pump, or something else related to the actual engine itself. W

Thanks Wingnut, can't I also just connect the two leads of the kill switch together and run it to single out the switch? 

Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, JFlo86 said:

Thanks Wingnut, can't I also just connect the two leads of the kill switch together and run it to single out the switch? 

Yes. Then that leaves the ignition switch, shorted gauge, and harness to/from engine.

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, JFlo86 said:

Fixed. Diagnosed as a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Thanks for the help! 

Interesting! As @cyclops2 mentions, I had a similar problem. Mechanic diagnosed it as an overheating fuel pump. Has the faulty sensor been fixed and solved the problem for you, or is that what's being fixed now?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/30/2020 at 11:08 AM, Cody B said:

Interesting! As @cyclops2 mentions, I had a similar problem. Mechanic diagnosed it as an overheating fuel pump. Has the faulty sensor been fixed and solved the problem for you, or is that what's being fixed now?

Yes crankshaft position sensor was replaced and I just came back from using the boat continuously for the last seven days. Runs like a champ! 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...