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Jim Werner

Volvo Penta SX-M Trim Pump Replacement

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Hello all,

I have a 2004 210 SSi, VP 5.0GL with a SX-M outdrive.  I have been having a few trim issues: (1) Periodically the pump with stop working, and require a tap on the unit to get it working again. (2) When underway and trimmed up, the drive will slowly drop towards the transom.  I do not see any evidence of external fluid leaks, and from what I have researched there may be leak in an internal valve on the pump.

I decided to go ahead and replace the trim pump, and I procured a new Volva Penta P/N 3587079 pump assembly (same P/N as original) and a couple bottles of Volvo Penta Trim fluid.  I think this should be a straightforward job, but I wanted to check and see if you had any pointers/suggestions.  My thoughts on the steps required:

1) Lower Drive all the way to remove fluid from cylinders

2) Disconnect Batteries

3) Remove cap and siphon out old fluid

4) Disconnect Electrical Harness(s) and hydraulic lines from pump

5) remove old pump and install new pump

6) reconnect electrical harness(s) and hydraulic lines

7) fill pump tank to the max line with fresh fluid, cap.

8) Reconnect batteries, cycle trim up and down to bleed air from system.  Add additional fluid as needed.

9) Go Boating!

I think that's it... I hope it should be plug and play since I am going with a direct Volva Penta replacement.  Anything I am missing?

Thanks!

Jim

 

 

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Jim

 

before you do this yourself, have you checked with the dealer or Volvo. The trim pump is a know issue and yours may be covered under a recall. I would check first. 

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You have the internal/bilge pump, there are no recalls or issues with them. You should be good to follow the procedures that you have set forth.

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Thanks for the feedback..  Yes, I have the internal pump assembly mounted on the floor of the bilge, not the one on the transom.    

Sounds like a straightforward job... I'll tackle it on the 5th! 

Happy 4th of July everyone,

Jim

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All,

So for an update, the replacement of the pump was straightforward as I had hoped.  the cables on the new pump were the exact lengths and connectors as the original.   The biggest challenge was reaching behind the engine to feed the cables.  Next time around I'll try to procure the original style cable ties with built in screws, so the installation will be as clean as original.

After a test drive, the new pump has solved problem #1 above, but I am still seeing the drive drift down when underway (problem #2).  So, the internal valve leakage in my old pump was not the root cause for that issue.  I do not see any evidence of external leaks in the system (either in the bilge or in the water), so is a likely next step to resolve this issue a rebuild of the trim cylinders?

This is not a major issue, as the drift is slow, and it just requires me to make trim corrections regularly to keep it where I want to be.

Thanks for your input,

Jim

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5 minutes ago, Bt Doctur said:

Should have checked the O rings in the trim cylinders first

Thanks.

I needed a new pump anyways to resolve the first issue, so it was still worth the update.

Sounds like a trim cylinder checkout/rebuild is in order.

Jim

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Jim, I just had the similar problem of the pump not working intermittently.  It was tough to find, but the connectors inside the plugs where the relays plug in right next to the trim motor were corroded.  I was cleaning the contacts when I discovered they were almost completely eaten away.  I replaced them on both red battery wires inside the plug and the problem was fixed.  Yours may have been your pump, but if it comes back, check those plugs.  I almost bought a pump, but it tested ok by wiring it directly from the battery.

if you still have your old pump, test it by switching positive and negative wires to the blue and green wires.  I assume you have the two wire motor.  That tests both up and down function.  

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