windlass

[dnrckr@aol.com]

I have a 1998 2835ssi limited edition.

The boat is in excellent condition, I on the other hand am getting too old to weigh and stow the anchor. I would like to have a windlass installed, or install one myself.

The bow appears to be set up for windlass so I'm guessing hull/fiberglass work will be minimum if at all.  Any suggestions/recommendations? 

Don

[Iggy]

Go for it!  There are many u-Tube videos on this.  Lewmar makes a great windless and there web site is very helpful. I would check it out.

[Jjlai724]

I have a 1999 year of your 2835 SSi and it had a windlass installed already.  You will need a horizontal windlass so the hatch will still close and cover the windlass.  Mine uses 1/4 chain.

Lewmar Horizontal Windlass  

Your gonna have to see if the boat was pre-wired for the windlass.  In you anchor box would be two heavy gauge cables for the the windlass that goes back to the helm.  Then you would install your windlass switch at the helm with a overload breaker and then run a set a cables back to your battery.  

If you boat is not pre-wired at the anchor box, then the toughest part will be getting the cables from the helm through the bathroom (roof panel access) and then in the liner of the cuddy to the anchor box.  That would be the challenge for a self install.  

Good luck.  

[951Tom]

I added a windlass to my Signature 260 and was 100% worth it!  Fairly straight forward job but still required lots of detailed planning.  Like Jjlai724 said, running the wires up to the anchor locker thru the cabin was the hardest part.  My battery switch/fuse panel had an existing position labeled for the breaker, so used that for a factory look then connected to the battery switch common post for the positive +.  This saved having to run wire all the way back to the batteries. The factory grounded my helm bus bar with heavy awg wire so that was my ground location and nearby to the control switch.  Next a fiberglass Dremel bit to cut the hole in the helm for the switch.  On my boat the windlass mounting platform was very thick wood/fiberglass and required a powerful jig-saw to cut the oval hole where the rode passes thru. Add to the list a good crimper & various sized heat-shrink ring terminals. Lastly, pick a good ergonomic spot for the switch keeping in mind when anchoring, you need 3 hands lol...one to steer, one to work the throttle, and one to hold the switch up/down button. 

[Randall Harbert]

A windless is a great option to have for sure. One thing I have to do when I pull the boat out on the trailer is loosen the anchor and hang it on the bow railing or it interferes with the wench.