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DarkMantle

Bow thruster on a Sig 270

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4 minutes ago, Hatem said:

Never said we couldn't boat all season.  Not sure where you got that, ma man.

Gotcha!  I guess I ASSumed you meant you weren't allowed to boat up there all season.  I mean YOU?  NOT BOATING???  :)

My bad!  Good to see you around!

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15 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

I think you meant. 

The shorter the cable . The less voltage drop in the wire. 

Wire gauge / diameter  determines how many amps can be carried.

Yes and no........

The longer the run the bigger cable you are going to need for the same load. Thats one reason why you find the bow thruster battery in the bow. 

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3 hours ago, Iggy said:

Yes and no........

The longer the run the bigger cable you are going to need for the same load. Thats one reason why you find the bow thruster battery in the bow. 

Yup. Current draw also plays into voltage drop. When you start talking larger current draw, it’s not so black and white. 

I haven’t looked into bow thrusters, but I would assume 150-200 A is pretty common? That’s a heavy gage cable. Make it bigger to keep less than 3% voltage drop. 

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On 9/16/2020 at 10:35 PM, DarkMantle said:

I'll be cutting it and installing myself. Just wanted to hear from anyone's experience. Doesn't seem overly difficult. 

It's definitely not too difficult if you're skilled and handy and have experience working with glass and doing it correctly.  How much fiber glass work have you done?

On 9/17/2020 at 10:33 PM, DarkMantle said:

Single screw and tight quarters especially when backing into the slip. I don't like not having control over the front end. 

That's exactly the reason why I'm doing mine.  My boat is right on the cusp -- size-wise -- of whether it should have twins or a large single.  At 29 feet, it has a large single and with that length and light weight at the bow (even lighter than yours since it's a bowrider and yours is a cabin which is heavier at the bow) that it barely takes a tiny gust of wind or moving current to completely lose the bow.  It plain old sucks a$$!  A bow thruster will work great and solve the backing up without losing the bow easily.  I though of doing this 2 years ago and we have a couple of threads already talking about it.  That's where I had posted those two videos in.  But there are a couple of interesting things that guy does that I would certainly do different.  Like using that dremel rotary tool to cut the large hole is a complete no-no for me.  I will definitely use something else that is much better suited and has the power to cut cleanly through 3/4" of weaving roving and layers of fiberglass at that area of the bow.  But the rest of the way he does is is perfectly and his boat is closer to yours than to mine since it's a cabin.

But, it has a V-birth in it but I'm not sure (or can't remember) what yours is.  Is it a V-birth or is it seating all around the inside hull?

On 9/21/2020 at 8:52 AM, DarkMantle said:

I like tis size because it's trailerable and I move it between a few lakes.  I'm going to take the power from the Windlass or at least look into that.  The windlass and thruster are never used at the same time.

Yeah, don't let anyone talk you out of doing what you want to do.  "Buy a bigger boat" lol!  Yours should be much easier to do than mine since you have unimpeded access to the bow and keel from inside the boat.  If you have a birth, then you just lift the bed up and create an access to the keel area that is big enough to install the tube, glass it and have enough room for the battery should you end up deciding to install a dedicated one.  That's probably the best thing to do from all the research I have done to date.

On mine it's much more difficult because it's a bowrider and I have to open that forward ski locker you see in the pic below and then cut out an access panel in the bottom of that factory-finished base of the ski locker to get access to the keel area below.

oLziwCB.jpg

Then I have to cut it carefully and neatly so as to reuse the cutout panel itself to make the new the access hatch because of all the curves in it.  If I screw it up of it just won't cut neatly, I'll have to make a new one that has to be finished in mint condition to match the interior of the ski locker.  That, on top of all the work that needs to be done to install the bow thruster.  Should be a lot of fun and I'm actually looking forward to it after the fun I had installing my windlass.  

Have you figured which type and size you're going to use?

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If I were to ever get a Sig 270 I would definitely have a bow thruster. Usually I'm the only one boating so an extra pair of hands is not available.  

Even with my 23 footer, the wind loves to shove my bow around as the fulcrum is in-between the engine and the gas tank. I'm in a 30 foot slip. It was all that was left. I took it. The first two years a large pontoon boat was my neighbor. Initially, it was difficult to get in because his boat was also pretty wide. Add the wind and it was likely to plow into the dock and then bounce off off it. Awful when the wind gets a hold of it. Like a pin ball machine.  I had toyed with the idea of a bow thruster. Never did it though.

This year, a 30 foot sail boat is my neighbor now. At first I was intimidated by it. But I began to realize that even though he has 30 feet of length, it is not nearly as wide at the stern as the pontoon boat. The sail boat gives me an additional 2 feet of clearance at the start of the dock. HUGE difference! Even in windy conditions I can control the boat as long as the Alpha 1 doesn't act up while I try to keep control of the boats drift.

Good luck with the installation.

We're all gonna want some video of how well you back into your slip once its installed.:D

 

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Do not worry about the bottom of the ski panel. NO one  will look at it.  Just put 4   L  brackets to hold the plate in place 4 pieces of CLOSED cell foam will stop any rattle noise.

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1 hour ago, cyclops2 said:

Do not worry about the bottom of the ski panel. NO one  will look at it.  Just put 4   L  brackets to hold the plate in place 4 pieces of CLOSED cell foam will stop any rattle noise.

A little bit of proper planning and using the right tools will get you the best results.  Besides, whomever opens the ski locker to get fenders or life jackets or whatever from there will see it!  So it needs to be done as nicely as possible.

Gotta cut the panel with a brand new blade on an oscillating tool (like a Fein) to get the narrowest cut possible except at the corners which will be rounded.  Those will need to be cut with a jigsaw, also with a brand new sharp blade and then all the edges sanded down very nicely and possibly gloved with rubber strips to seal out the noise as much as possible and maybe hinge it or just make it clippable so  it's removed completely when needed.  That's TBD.

I already looked underneath from the helm storage area to see how that ski locker is fastened to the floor cap and it's actually glued and bolted/screwed into it, all around the top flange.  It would've been a convenient option had we been able to disconnect that entire tub of the ski locker and pulled it out to have wide open work space for the bow thruster and also to comfortably work on the tub access panel in the shop.  But it's too much of a process.  Chaparral really stuck that tub to the cap really well!  And I'm actually glad they did.

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On 9/26/2020 at 11:42 AM, Hatem said:

 

But, it has a V-birth in it but I'm not sure (or can't remember) what yours is.  Is it a V-birth or is it seating all around the inside hull?

 

oLziwCB.jpg

Then I have to cut it carefully and neatly so as to reuse the cutout panel itself to make the new the access hatch because of all the curves in it.  If I screw it up of it just won't cut neatly, I'll have to make a new one that has to be finished in mint condition to match the interior of the ski locker.  That, on top of all the work that needs to be done to install the bow thruster.  Should be a lot of fun and I'm actually looking forward to it after the fun I had installing my windlass.  

Have you figured which type and size you're going to use?

I have a V-Birth with seating all around so the tube will have to go under the very front seat.  Corner of the birth basically.  I'm going to use the MAX-POWER CT45 thruster.  It's probably a tad bigger than I need but i'd rather be over powered rather than under, wishing for more.  I'm also going to use a Rotozip.  It's a pretty strong tool and should have no issues getting through the glass.

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On 9/28/2020 at 7:12 AM, DarkMantle said:

I have a V-Birth with seating all around so the tube will have to go under the very front seat.  Corner of the birth basically.  I'm going to use the MAX-POWER CT45 thruster.  It's probably a tad bigger than I need but i'd rather be over powered rather than under, wishing for more.  I'm also going to use a Rotozip.  It's a pretty strong tool and should have no issues getting through the glass.

You might need to go lower, underneath the bottom of storage compartment under the seats, to have the thruster tunnel below the water line. Measure twice and cut once.

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On 9/28/2020 at 7:12 AM, DarkMantle said:

I have a V-Birth with seating all around so the tube will have to go under the very front seat.  Corner of the birth basically.  I'm going to use the MAX-POWER CT45 thruster.  It's probably a tad bigger than I need but i'd rather be over powered rather than under, wishing for more.  I'm also going to use a Rotozip.  It's a pretty strong tool and should have no issues getting through the glass.

Very cool.  It's better to go with more power than not have enough of it.  I wish I could get the tunnel in and glassed and all ready for the rest of the work before the cold weather hits.  I'll be lucky if I can pull it off with my schedule and work.  But can't complain considering the way things are going with many trying to just stay afloat in these crazy times.  

Hope you take some pics and document it.  I'm already trying to figure out where the best spot is for the joystick.  That's always an issue with limited space on the helm and also the way it's designed for looks.  

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