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  2. If you come to our website, we will inform you about very easy ways that you can use VPN software very easily. Which Latest Software Coupons will tell you according to you and also provide you coupon code and discount code to get very high discount.
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  4. Butter smooth in reverse, too?
  5. Go to iboats and order the Spectrum gel coat paste and patch it. Its fairly easy to correct.
  6. My shifting is also very smooth, I cant feel a thing. I just know it works. I just always assumed that the smooth shifting was a benefit of the cone clutch drive.
  7. That looks like mine (2005 210ssi). Mine won't start in gear so it has a neutral safety switch. But, if dealer says it isn't in the remote, maybe it's on the cable and jiggling the remote is moving the cable. I believe there is some sort of switch where the shift cable connects to the linkage at the motor.
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  9. Or add some ballast on the Stbd side in the bow.
  10. Ugh, when smooth is bad. How long has yours been acting that way? Took her out this morning and now no clunk even when cold. Smooth as butter forward, clunk in reverse. I assume slippage under load is what ultimately happens? Still gits when giving throttle, no mismatch at all between tach and speed.
  11. Trying to figure out this mystery and seeing if anyone has had a similar situation. With the throttle in Neutral I turn the key and nothing happens. If I jigle the throttle a bit with the key turned it will then start. I thought it might be a neutral safety switch type situation but I called the Chaparral dealer and gave him the part number of my throttle and he looked it up and they said there is no neutral safety switch the only 2 switches on that model throttle are the kill switch and the trim switch. Both of those switches seem to work fine. I don't want to be out on the water and the jiggle the throttle while in neutral trick stops working. Has anyone had anything similar happen to them? Any help appreciated!! Thanks! The dealer said I have the Mercury Remote control 4000 throttle P/N 858690
  12. Update: These are Diamondback Marine wake board racks --> http://diamondback-marine.com/. It looks like they are OEM on the H20 surf models --> https://www.alliancewake.com/gear/2019-chaparral-23-h20-surf/. Unfortunately, I cannot find any retail site that sell DB's rack online. I've reached out to DBAmerica directly asking for a lead and will update the thread if I hear back.
  13. I see this thread is very old but it's about the only one I see on this topic. I think I will be replacing the carrier bearing housing and wanted to know how big the job was getting it out and the new one back in? Will the propshaft stay set or any other problems I might run into? Thanks for any info you can provide it you get this message.
  14. I had the same issue the first crank of the season. Didn't make so much as a click.Turns out the the starter solenoid was seized up. I could bypass it with a screwdriver and the starter would spin, but it wasn't engaging the flywheel. Apparently this is fairly common as moisture will cause some corrosion on it and freeze it up. I tapped it a few times with a hammer and all has been good since, but I will probably replace it before the boat goes back into storage in the fall.
  15. Assuming the original was 4140 and the aftermarket one is 304, mechanically the materials are similar enough in this application to not be a problem. Now corrosion wise, I am concerned it is a matter of swapping one problem for another. The assumed 4140 O.E. shaft corrodes on the seal journal and damages the seal over time. The concern with the 304 is the potential galvanic corrosion between the shaft and the aluminum gimbal ring, especially when submerged in saltwater. This joint is already a problem area for B3 drives, adding galvanic corrosion to the mix won't make it any better. This is only a directional opinion, i have no data to use to predict life of one over the other. My suggestion would be if you are using an aftermarket 304 shaft be extra vigilant about keeping the gimbal ring u-bolt properly torqued.
  16. Took the boat out for first time Sunday since doing an engine alignment. When doing a lookover afterwards I noticed the Drive to Bell Housing Gasket was pooched out on both sides where the gasket and mating surface is only about 1/8" wide, ie. next to the big water supply o-ring on the port side, next to the shift lever on the starboard. I drained the drive unit oil, it looks perfect with no sign of water contamination so nothing happened to the lower unit. Gasket was pooched out enough that the entire orange bead is out on the starboard side so pretty sure some water made it's way in. Tonight I'll pull the drive, inspect and hopefully put all back together with a new gasket. My thinking is, since the drive unit oil checked out fine, potential issues would be water got past the big square o-ring and into the u-joint bellows, and into the shift cable. Shift cable is stainless so will try to blow some compressed air through it from engine side, but even if can't the water should evaporate and no issues down the road. If water got into the bellow, drain/dry everything and pump some fresh grease into the gimbal bearing. Are there any potential issues I'm missing and is there anything else I should do to address? 2nd question, any suggestions how to keep this from happening again. I've probably pulled alpha's off 15 or 20 times, never had this happen before. This time I was thinking what a poor design this is with that 1/8" wide or so area that has to seal so I put a dab of bellows adhesive to hold the gasket in place. I'm thinking that was the issue?
  17. First off that is minor and can be fixed easily. Second, I have learned the best way to avoid striking an object in the water is to initially turn away from it and then turn towards it. That approach gets you a little distance and prevents the stern from striking it. Third, you should never have to use your bilge pump. Why are you getting water in your bilge and why are you excepting the fact that you have water in your bilge?
  18. Looks fast sitting still..... I had a 2300SC with a 7.4L and that thing was a rocket ship. When the lake got rough, trim it up and open it up and it would dance on top of the chop.
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  20. With it plugged into shore power, take a voltage meter and make sure you have 120 volts going to the battery charger. If you have 120 volts going to the battery charger, check to see if there are any LED lights "on" on the charger. If you do and you can hear the charger running (small humming sound), then check to see if you are getting 13 plus volts DC at each battery. If there are no LED lights "on" on the charger, there should be a fuse on the charger. Make sure the fuse or fuses are not blown. The battery charger should have three sets of wires to charge each battery separately. The battery charger does not go through the Perko switches, so leaving it to "All" or "1 or 2" has no effect on the charging. The charger is 22 years old, more than likely it will need to be replaced. I replaced my charger on my 2835 when it was about 12 years old. You will need to buy a three bank charger if you have three batteries.
  21. On my '08, the water tank is plastic and translucent. A quick lift of the engine hatch and you can see the water level. I'm guessing yours is stainless?
  22. Glad you got it figured out. Sorry it wasn't something simple. As luck would have it, I started the AC for the first time this weekend. Pump wouldn't prime. I tried a few of the tricks here without success. Then took the boat for a ride which primed the system. Once back in the slip, it pumped water right away.
  23. My marina dropped my boat in without charging the battery's. and of course the boat wouldn't start. They put a jump box on one of the battery's and the engines fired up and ran fine. I plugged in the shore power and switched the battery charger switch to "on", (switch in the cabin on the main switch board) let the boat run about 10 minutes and shut the engines down, figuring the battery charger would take over. ( i left the battery switch's set to "ALL"). came back a few days later and the batteries are dead again. How do i check the battery charger to see if its working or not? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  24. Does anyone know how to get the cover off to change the bulbs?
  25. B T doctor Wingnut & Shepherd 1 can tell you what is being dagaged in the engine from all the salt going thru 7 sitting in it while not running. I forget things..... All your tank, lines, tank pump I water / fuel filter & housing are contaminated also. Good luck with the salt problem.
  26. Since you know the clam is going under water . Either stop doing the excessive tight turns. or drill a hole high enough to add s new clam on the main deck. with th clam pointed downward. Your boat is not a ski boat. Your gas tank has a LOAD of water in it. Are you running in salt water ? If yes ? You will be getting a lot more longer & harder engine problems. EDIT EDIT Sealup the lower vent ! DO NOT remove the clamshell. Just seal it with RTV rubbersquirted into it.
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