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Fresh Water Flush


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#1 fun ticket

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Posted 01 November 2010 - 06:46 AM

I feel like I am asking a bunch of questions but I am trying to learn my new boat so bear with me......

I do not have the neutra salt system but do have a fresh water flush hose on my engine (Volvo 5.7L) whic is accessed in the bilge. Because I am extremely lazy, I want to simplfy the access to the freshwater flushing port and get it out of the bilge. My neighbor (Signature 310) showed me a setup he has where the dealer used the exisitng the flush port on the motor, added some type of adapter, hose and a port to attach your hose on the exterior of his boat (mopunted on the transom). Looks like a good setup that would fix my problem.

This is where my question comes in, my neighbor paid a dealer to do it and he knew nothing about what they did. Don't you need some type of valve to prevent "backflush" or something to that affect? It looks like they used a brass adapter that screwed into the Volvo factory flush port (the blue plastic piece). I'm guessing maybe that adpater has some type of valve in it to prevent water from circulating backwards up the hose to the exterior flush port??

Anybody done this, know what parts are needed or perhaps there is a pre-packaged kit to do it? I think I can do the work myself if I can get the right parts. It looked pretty simple.

Thanks.
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Volvo 5.7L Gi
DuoProp Drive
Tampa, Florida

#2 professor48

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Posted 01 November 2010 - 07:39 AM

I've been looking into adding a fresh water flush to my Mercruiser (See related threads). One of the things I found is a thrugh-hull connector for a water hose, made by Perko. It's about 40 deer. As I understand it, the hose fitting already on your engine has a one-way valve on it. The Perko kit is simply the thru-hull fitting and cap, a length of hose, a male hose fitting to connect to your present fitting, and a female hose fitting to connect to the back of the thru-hull. In all, a simple improvement on your present system. If your present set-up doesn't have a one-way valve, a "swing valve" can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot for about 8 deer and installed in the hose you add. Again,quite simple. Hope this helps. Hy
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#3 Chewey

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Posted 01 November 2010 - 10:24 AM

The Volvo flush kit on my 03 220 SSI 5.0 does not have a valve in it. When the motor is running, there is a suction in that hose. The blue cap has a seal on it so no air is sucked in when running and the cap is closed. If the cap is left off, air gets sucked in there instead of water through the outdrive and burns up your impellor (ask me how I know). As long as what you come up with can be sealed as well as the blue cap seals, you should be good. I would love to do this mod as well. Let us know what you find out.
-mike



2006 220 SSI - "Harmony and Buoys"
V-P 5.0 GXI-E SX outdrive
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#4 Weekend At Bernie's

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Posted 01 November 2010 - 02:03 PM

Can you get a pic of your neighbors engine flush set up (inside and out)? I have a Sig 310 also and I would be very interested in having an external access as long as it is aesthetic.

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#5 fun ticket

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 12:02 PM

Can you get a pic of your neighbors engine flush set up (inside and out)? I have a Sig 310 also and I would be very interested in having an external access as long as it is aesthetic.


I'll get some pics next time I see him

I am now being told that what I need is a Perko Flush Kit (it has a valve). Anyone have experience with these?

Also, it is sold in different sizes, does anyone know what the intake hose size is on a Volvo 5.7L GiC? It comes in 5/8", 1" or 1 1/4".

Thx
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#6 professor48

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 05:14 PM

I'm looking into that same flush kit for my Mercruiser. The one problem I've read about concerning it is that it is made of plastic and can burst if the hose pressure is too high. I know that I locked up the water pump on my engine when I had the hose and the SaltAway system connected. The pressure was too high for the pump to take, causing it to lock and the serpentine belt to slip, squealing like you know what. I had followed the directions of the SaltAway kit, which called for full hose pressure. I guess whatever system I use, I'll have to keep the hose pressure at 50%. I don't know the size hose on the Volvo; you may have to measure yours. Be careful if you try to install it while the boat's in the water. When you disconnect the feed hose, the bay flows into your boat. You don't want to sink it trying to install a flush kit. Post photos when you're done, please. Thanks. Hy
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#7 fun ticket

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 06:28 PM

The Volvo flush kit on my 03 220 SSI 5.0 does not have a valve in it. When the motor is running, there is a suction in that hose. The blue cap has a seal on it so no air is sucked in when running and the cap is closed. If the cap is left off, air gets sucked in there instead of water through the outdrive and burns up your impellor (ask me how I know). As long as what you come up with can be sealed as well as the blue cap seals, you should be good. I would love to do this mod as well. Let us know what you find out.



UPDATE:

I finished this project and you are correct. Nothing fancy needed just ensure you have a good seal. I don't have pics but I did the following and it works great. I have several hours on the installation and no problems; engine temp is holding steady.

1. At the blue cap screw in a brass fitting with a barb to accept a 5/8" water hose & connect with a SS hose clamp. I used teflon tape on the fitting. Not sure if it is needed but I did it anyway. This connection is the piece I would just check periodically to be sure it does not get loose.
2. Route the water hose to a spot you chose to use on your transom to mount the water inlet fitting
3. Drill a hole in your transom and install a SS fitting that is a water inlet fitting (be sure the one you buy has a rubber gasket to ensure a good seal when you screw in the cap). This is the spot where you will connect your fresh water flush hose on your transom
4. Go back in the bilge and attach the water hose to the back side of the water inlet you just installed. You will need a barbed fitting that accepts the 5/8" water hose. This fitting screws into the back of the water inlet that you added. Attach the hose with a SS hose clamp.

Thats it. Simple and so far so good.

The most expensive part was the SS water inlet (about $45). I think I had about $70 in the whole deal; fittings, hose, clamps.

This set up is a whole lot easier than crawling in the bilge to attach the flush hose.
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#8 Chewey

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 08:53 PM

70 deer ain't bad for something like that. Where did you get the water inlet? Any pics of the install? Thanks for the update. This may be one of my offseason upgrades!
-mike



2006 220 SSI - "Harmony and Buoys"
V-P 5.0 GXI-E SX outdrive
Tampa FL


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#9 fun ticket

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 09:22 PM

70 deer ain't bad for something like that. Where did you get the water inlet? Any pics of the install? Thanks for the update. This may be one of my offseason upgrades!


I bought everything at the Boat & Motor Superstore on US 19, Palm Harbor. They had to order the parts, took about three days to get it. If you call them talk to "John" in parts. He seemed pretty familiar with the setup.
2011 270 Signature
Volvo 5.7L Gi
DuoProp Drive
Tampa, Florida